Photo of the Day
Shoutbox

SabedLeepski: Sunburn Surf Fest for some scorching hot surf music: https://sunb...
321 days ago

skeeter: I know a Polish sound guy.
248 days ago

skeeter: I know a Czech one too!
248 days ago

PatGall: Surfybear metal settings
168 days ago

Pyronauts: Happy Tanks-Kicking!
146 days ago

midwestsurfguy: Merry Christmas!
115 days ago

sysmalakian: HAPPY NEW YEAR!
108 days ago

SabedLeepski: Surfin‘ Europe, for surf (related) gigs and events in Europe Big Razz https://sunb...
69 days ago

SHADOWNIGHT5150: I like big reverb and i cannot lie
3 days ago

SHADOWNIGHT5150: Bank accounts are a scam created by a shadow government
3 days ago

Please login or register to shout.

Current Polls

No polls at this time. Check out our past polls.

Current Contests

No contests at this time. Check out our past contests.

Donations

Help us meet our monthly goal:

31%

31%

Donate Now

Cake April Birthdays Cake
SG101 Banner

SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

New Topic
Goto Page: Previous 1 292 93 94 95 96135 136 Next

^^^^
Very nice improvement. All this in the last couple of days has caused me to rethink what I have done. It will be redo city in the future. Smile Thanks to all who contribute to this. Smile

Sonichris wrote:

This is the one that was recommended by several other members here. I bought mine from this guy, because, well, he had the cheapest price. No idea if that's still the case. I'm going to mount it, and hard wire it using the same hole I used for the wall wart plug in.

Meanwell power supply

Thanks Chris for the pointer. It's also for sale for $8 on Amazon.
Where does the 120v AC go into the unit? Does the user wire it directly to one of those posts sticking out the side?
image

Squink Out!

JObeast - your AC cord would connect to the three terminal posts on the left-hand side marked L (Line Hot), N (Neutral) and ground.

THANK YOU FOR THIS VID!

Rock

mj
bent playing for benter results
Do not attempt to adjust your TV set.
https://www.facebook.com/Bass-VI-Explorers-Club-179437279151035/
https://www.facebook.com/Lost-Planet-Shamen-366987463657230/

Cool

I want to clarify the PS in the video is not the same one used for the Surfy Bear. The wiring is the same but the output is different.

I didn't make the video, I just found it!

I think someone here with the correct knowledge/training/experience should explain very clearly how dangerous it is (as in: you die) to connect 120 or 220V to a device which, from the many examples seen here, will go inside a metal (tool)box.

And also point out all the precautions that have to be taken as far as wiring goes, to not die when one of those 220V carrying wires come loose (they can and probably will!) and come in contact with the inside of the metal toolbox.

This is not your typical 9V DC connected to a aluminium distortion stompbox.

Just saying to be careful and to know what you're doing when dealing with mains inside a metal box which you'll touch and which will possibly be connected to your guitar. To me this just looks like a lethal accident waiting to happen.

I understand 8$ is tempting but still...

Last edited: Feb 01, 2018 10:45:21

j_flanders wrote:

I think someone here with the correct knowledge/training/experience should explain very clearly how dangerous it is (as in: you die) to connect 120 or 220V to a device which, from the many examples seen here, will go inside a metal (tool)box.

And also point out all the precautions that have to be taken as far as wiring goes, to not die when one of those 220V carrying wires come loose (they can and probably will!) and come in contact with the inside of the metal toolbox.

This is not your typical 9V DC connected to a aluminium distortion stompbox.

Just saying to be careful and to know what you're doing when dealing with mains inside a metal box which you'll touch and possibly even be connected to your guitar. To me this just looks like lethal accident waiting to happen.

I understan 8$ is tempting but still...

A good point. Maybe we should set some rules to safely install these power supplies. I'll think about it and come back to you guys as soon as possible.

A drop of blue loctite we’ll help, as would using a tie wrap to add some strain relief to the wire.
That’s how ALL of the internal wiring is done on big ship radars (including the terminal strips just like this power supply). Those things rock and roll and vibrate something fierce out there and I’ve never seen a problem due to a wire coming loose.

Edit: I should add that in the video, the dude put bare wire into that terminal strip. In some strips that’s ok. Others are designed for ring/spade terminals. I’ll see which one comes on the version that Chris linked when it gets here.

Last edited: Feb 01, 2018 06:04:12

Gilette wrote:

j_flanders wrote:

I think someone here with the correct knowledge/training/experience should explain very clearly how dangerous it is (as in: you die) to connect 120 or 220V to a device which, from the many examples seen here, will go inside a metal (tool)box.

And also point out all the precautions that have to be taken as far as wiring goes, to not die when one of those 220V carrying wires come loose (they can and probably will!) and come in contact with the inside of the metal toolbox.

This is not your typical 9V DC connected to a aluminium distortion stompbox.

Just saying to be careful and to know what you're doing when dealing with mains inside a metal box which you'll touch and possibly even be connected to your guitar. To me this just looks like lethal accident waiting to happen.

I understan 8$ is tempting but still...

A good point. Maybe we should set some rules to safely install these power supplies. I'll think about it and come back to you guys as soon as possible.

Safety points well taken! I have a 120 v AC mains line (intact on both ends) plugged into a 3-prong jack set into a small toolbox, where several wallwarts afre glued into place using polyurethane cement. Their various low-volt outputs feed jacks on the front panel, where light cords plug in to power my devices. The mains power on the inside of the input jack goes through heavy gauge high voltage-rated wires with high-temp insulation soldered directly onto the paddles of the wallwarts, all covered in heatshrunk plastic. I hope it's safety-compliant. At least it's rugged and well-insulated.

Squink Out!

Last edited: Feb 01, 2018 10:38:50

j_flanders wrote:

I think someone here with the correct knowledge/training/experience should explain very clearly how dangerous it is (as in: you die) to connect 120 or 220V to a device which, from the many examples seen here, will go inside a metal (tool)box.

And also point out all the precautions that have to be taken as far as wiring goes, to not die when one of those 220V carrying wires come loose (they can and probably will!) and come in contact with the inside of the metal toolbox.

This is not your typical 9V DC connected to a aluminium distortion stompbox.

Just saying to be careful and to know what you're doing when dealing with mains inside a metal box which you'll touch and which will possibly be connected to your guitar. To me this just looks like a lethal accident waiting to happen.

I understand 8$ is tempting but still...

I think you are assuming the $8 power supply is somehow inferior because of it's cheap price - which it isn't. It's a very safe item, that has passed all the safety requirements to be sold to consumers in the US.

And 120v, isn't really very dangerous. It can kill you, but it's very unlikely. You risk getting zapped every time you plug something in. I don't see any real reason to fear this in any homebuilt project using common sense when installing. A metal tool box is not so much removed from an amplifier chassis, or a lamp, or any number of items that we touch daily.

But, yes, of course, use some sense when installing it.

  1. Make sure it's wired correctly. Watch the video above if you aren't sure.
  2. Make sure the wires to it are securely mounted. Tug on them to make sure they will stay in place, and like chipper says above, maybe a little locktite on the connector screw treads might not be the worst idea.
  3. If hard wiring from the power supply directly to the cord, Use a strain relief bushing so the wires aren't under stress. stain relief bushing Or use one of these receptacle for power cord

"You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"

I've been researching the build for this spring reverb kit. I would like to add the on/off switch (toggle SPST?) and lamp (preferably LED) as well as an input jack for a footswitch as shown as optional tweaks on the schematic supplied. I'm wondering if anyone who has built their unit with these mods could post a clear pic of the wiring so I can visualize how they're added into the mix. (I'm not great with schematics) Also, looking for suggestions for part numbers for a switch, lamp, and footswitch jack (if it's different from a mono 1/4" jack) so that I don't order the wrong ones. Oh, BTW, I'm a newbie to building pedals, but I have soldering skills as I have repaired or rewired plenty guitars. THANKS a ton in advance!
image

BBuckner, if you look back through the thread, you will find a post that I listed part numbers for all the components used. Good luck with your build.

BBuckner if you look at my posts from May 19 and 20 last year there are photos of my arrangement. It has the mains switch, although I have brought the mains into the box with the DC power supply in the box. I also have the relay so that I can switch between two reverb settings.

I have been digging through the threads and will compile a parts list soon. I appreciate the responses! I’m currently looking into whether a DPDT stomp switch would allow a true bypass situation. I’m going to draw up the circuit and post it here for discussion. Seems like I saw someone else’s diagram of a DPDT in the circuit somewhere in here, but it may have been for switching between reverb and trem circuits housed in the same enclosure. This support thread is really great!
image

Hello reverb addicteds!
Does someone have the DECAY circuit diagram?? I've searched everywhere but could not find it. I really wanted the deluxe version but it is not for sale...

New to the website
have the surfy bear reverb here and am beginning my build .. thought I would post it..
I have a Tweed twin that I am adding reverb into ..
I will use this project box, and turn it into these renderings that I drew up in CAD..
It will live in the back with the reverb tank on the side where I can get to the knobs and inputs..
I will post when I get it done..
image
image
image

The orange square is the surfy, the other one is the power supply.. It will be hardwired to the amp..
I have provisions for a fuse.. wondering if I need one.. I am using the meanwell PS someone mentioned above

Machined the box, and wired the thing.. power is on !!
cant wait to wire it to the amp..
I ran through it and got a sound already..
here are some shots of it..
image
image
image
image
image

If someone could give this schematic a once-over and let me know if it seems sound, I'd appreciate it. I'm new to the 3DPT world. I've seen some points raised about gain issues between wet/dry signals so if it's an issue I may see about wiring in a boost I have setting around.
At first, I planned on adding a 1/4" jack for a footswitch, but figured the 3DPT would make a separate footswitch obsolete. I'm planning to mount the 3DPT jack into the top of the usual red toolbox. I am a little concerned with possible noise from inadvertently moving the springs around upon stomping, but figured I would try this first and see. I can always add the other jack if it's an issue.
image

Did you rewire the amp input to the SB?

Squink Out!

Last edited: Feb 11, 2018 18:50:37

Goto Page: Previous 1 292 93 94 95 96135 136 Next
Top