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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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From what I see in the schematic.....which I saw earlier in the thread and didnt understand is just a toggle with an led spliced into it.....where does the power input go? Or is that a completely different part of the board? Sorry I'm literally illiterate when it comes to this stuff,just wanna make sure I get it right.

If you want the ultimate,you gotta be willing to pay the ultimate price.

Brett

I found a Fender FM100 head cab that is the same size as a typical Fender head. I'm going to gut this.(someone need a fender FM100 chassis in working order?)The knob hole count is just right to house two surfy bears and have room to cut out for my new Quilter ProBlock all across the face of the amp head. Should have plenty of room for two pans. I'm thinking of stacking the horizontal pans on rods that will drop down on foam for transport. This will be a fun, a solid build and will become my new grab and go stage rig. I'm coupling the Quilter with a 1x15 JBL cab. This will still be much lighter than my 1x15 with the SRO. The duel surfy will serve two purposes. One is to have a separate unit for when I am playing through two amps plus I will be able to have two reverb dwell settings (etc) via an A/B switch for using one amp.
image

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

Last edited: Dec 20, 2016 19:25:23

That sounds like a great plan stratdancer!
Why not even make this all in one deal even lighter with an alternative speaker?
(maybe the real question is - what am I missing by not playing through a JBL Smile )

In this dual setup, you could use different pan makes for a wider spectrum of sounds. Remember to leave place for a cap mod pot for at least one of the bears.

BTW, I have tried different schemes of combining 2 Surfy-Bear reverbs - parallel, serial and just a heads up - not worth it. None The sound is GRANDEST, when feeded fed straight and single into the input, and from output to amp.

As for switching - after many tinkerings, my philosophy is now -
if someone has at least one more pedal (tuner, boost, whatevs) that's getting used during performance, it would be more efficient to implement the Bear into an effects board.
That would allow using shorter wiring overall, having the circuit itself in pedal form, and consistent easy access to all your sounds. Just have to make sure the pan is soft mounted to resist the stomping.


Latherman87 wrote:

From what I see in the schematic...

You're looking at the bottom left part of the whole. The power section.

Last edited: Dec 20, 2016 18:50:56

DreadInBabylon wrote:

That sounds like a great plan stratdancer!
Why not even make this all in one deal even lighter with an alternative speaker?

Thanks! I will have a 1x12 cab at some point for a smaller grab and go.

In this dual setup, you could use different pan makes for a wider spectrum of sounds. Remember to leave place for a cap mod pot for at least one of the bears.

Thanks for reminding me of the cap mod! I will definitely do that for one of the surfy's. This will make for more widespread choices in drip and tone.

I will have my typical pedal board with the boosts, fuzz and delay. The A/B will be used as needed.

BTW, I have tried different schemes of combining 2 Surfy-Bear reverbs - parallel, serial and just a heads up - not worth it. None The sound is GRANDEST, when feeded straight and single into the input, and from output to amp.

As for switching - after many tinkerings, my philosophy is now -
if someone has at least one more pedal (tuner, boost, whatevs) that's getting used during performance, it would be more efficient to implement the Bear into an effects board.
That would allow using shorter wiring overall, having the circuit itself in pedal form, and consistent easy access to all your sounds. Just have to make sure the pan is soft mounted to resist the stomping.

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

I love how this keeps growing. Smile

Latherman87 wrote:

From what I see in the schematic.....which I saw earlier in the thread and didnt understand is just a toggle with an led spliced into it.....where does the power input go? Or is that a completely different part of the board? Sorry I'm literally illiterate when it comes to this stuff,just wanna make sure I get it right.

Maybe you can work it out from following this photo. I too am electronically illiterate!

image

I'm not sure if this would give a different result compared to the photo above, but i believe this is how the wiring for a toggle switch + lamp is represented in the schematic...
image
And of course one would properly solder the connections, in this photo i only attached the wires like that for mock-up.

Last edited: Dec 21, 2016 13:52:07

Both the pics make sense for me! Thanks a lot you guys I really do appreciate it!

If you want the ultimate,you gotta be willing to pay the ultimate price.

Brett

I think Clarry's picture shows the jewel light being in series with the board. This may result in a low voltage and current for the surfy bear.

Sandbug's picture is the right way to wire it.

To clarify the above: if you hook the light into the 12 volts going to the board from the power source, you will be on the downhill side of the 12v adapter. If you are hooking into the 120v going to the powersupply before being reduced to 12v, you will need the appropriate voltage light for which side you choose, Either way will work fine.

Want to give a huge thank you to everyone who has helped out on another on this from ! Has inspired me to tackle the surfy bear myself ! I'm fairly new to Soldering but I'm confident I can get this up & running. I have my enclosure & surfy bear here ready to go , just waiting on my chassis to come in. If anyone could post links to the following parts that would be a huge help ! Thank you !

Correct parts for :
On / off switch
Led housing / bulb / jewel assembly
Shielded Rca cables
Power Supply

Gilette wrote:

I think Clarry's picture shows the jewel light being in series with the board. This may result in a low voltage and current for the surfy bear.

Sandbug's picture is the right way to wire it.

I'll have a look at swapping them round.

Last edited: Dec 22, 2016 06:02:46

Everyone really has been a great help on this,hopefully right after Christmas I can start putting mine together!

If you want the ultimate,you gotta be willing to pay the ultimate price.

Brett

Only thing that sucks for me is I ended up buying a smaller light.....which I can replace at a later date of course but I bought a 5/16" light.....seeing the big ones you guys have makes me jealous haha!

If you want the ultimate,you gotta be willing to pay the ultimate price.

Brett

SurfDripAddiction51 wrote:

Want to give a huge thank you to everyone who has helped out on another on this from ! Has inspired me to tackle the surfy bear myself ! I'm fairly new to Soldering but I'm confident I can get this up & running. I have my enclosure & surfy bear here ready to go , just waiting on my chassis to come in. If anyone could post links to the following parts that would be a huge help ! Thank you !

Correct parts for :
On / off switch
Led housing / bulb / jewel assembly
Shielded Rca cables
Power Supply

Smile
yes, this is most friendly forum I know!
Its the discussions and the ideas we share here that make the building fun.

I think builders in Europe often order parts from TubeTown or TubeAmpDoctor. In USA the Amplifiedparts is a good supplier. Many parts can also be found on eBay.
Sorry I dont have direct links.

Gilette wrote:

I think Clarry's picture shows the jewel light being in series with the board. This may result in a low voltage and current for the surfy bear.

Sandbug's picture is the right way to wire it.u

I've reworded the pilot light correctly and all my "drip problems" I had earlier have disappeared!!

Must have been a current problem?

It sounds bloody amazing now!

It's great to come on here to try and help someone and get my own problem sorted.

Last edited: Dec 22, 2016 13:00:14

No. 51, this is some of the parts I got from Amplified parts:
P-G001 rubber grommet for mounting tanks, you may not need
S-H273 rca cable
P-H261 rubber feet
P-H261 handle
P-K300 chicken head knobs,
P-K314-1-a black round knob
I bought a 120v toggle switch and the jewel light from Waytek electric but Amplified parts has the same parts.

-

Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 12:30:38

Clarry wrote:

It sounds bloody amazing now!

They certainly do! If I believed in angels, then Bjorn would be one for giving us this gift of fine reverb.

Last edited: Dec 22, 2016 12:42:48

thank you again to everyone for all your help , & bjorn aswell !
thanks for the websites , can anyone verify the correct light assembly for 12v on amplified parts so I dont need a resistor , thank you !

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/lamp-fender-style-premium-pilot-assembly

https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/switch-carling-toggle-spst-replacement-fender

are these ^ parts correct ?

On a side note ,
with the latest surfy bear boards checking the polarity is no longer necessary correct ?

& can anyone explain how to properly ground the board ?

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