kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Feb 23 2015 04:27 PM
I just put both pots on either end of a 4PDT, and the board leads to the center lugs. Used the extra row for the LED.
I used the stock mix pot values for both.
Forgive my ignorance, but I don't see how this would raise the output impedance. It still has only one stock value pot in the circuit, it just toggles between the two.
Excuse the poor drawing. I did this VERY quickly.
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 23 2015 04:52 PM
Yes this was the solution without raising the impedance! Great work!
Do you hear any noise from the amp when switching? Its the thing I was afraid of. Also for the switching moment the circuit is completly open.
Unfortunatly the 4ptd switches in Germany are more than twice as expensive compared to the 3ptd switches. But a LED seems more than necessary.
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kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Feb 23 2015 05:36 PM
Suck about the price. 4PDTs are about the same price here in Brooklyn, NY.
I was also concerned about noise and/or popping when switching but I was very happy to find it was completely silent. No pop, nothing!
Yeah, the LED is certainly helpful!
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 02:28 AM
Shouldn't it be also enough to just switch the middle contact and one of the contacts on the outside? So no current would flow into the disabled potentiometer because its only connected on one side. And so we could use a 3pdt switch with the LED!?!
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Last edited: Feb 24, 2015 02:30:39
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 04:37 AM
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 04:38 AM
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 05:16 AM
LaFleur, you are right. That should work perfectly.
As you said 'no current would flow' thru the disconnected pot.
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cambeezy
Joined: Jun 26, 2007
Posts: 399
Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 06:19 PM
kinski wrote:
That is so cool and tempting! I've got an empty box from a fuzz pedal gone-wrong project and a combo with floor space for a tank …hmmm
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kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 07:39 PM
Hey thanks, Cambeezy!
You might have a bit of hard time fitting all of the components and board in that 1590B. I used a 125B which is wider and deeper, and it was tight. Not saying it can't be done in a 1590B though !
On another note, I really wanted to have a smaller pan to put in my Gibson GA-5 (5 watts). I've read in this thread that smaller pans don't sound so great. Is that really true? I dont expect it to sound as nice as the large pan, but is it really completely unusable with small pan? Would I be better off with just using a reverb pedal with the GA-5 amp?
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cambeezy
Joined: Jun 26, 2007
Posts: 399
Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 08:13 PM
kinski wrote:
You might have a bit of hard time fitting all of the components and board in that 1590B. I used a 125B which is wider and deeper, and it was tight. Not saying it can't be done in a 1590B though !
Yeah, I just did some measuring and I think I'll need a shoehorn I was thinking of siliconing the board to bottom cover, but the hook-up wires -- yikes!
Kinski, can you post a gut shot of your pedal? Thanks!
On another note, I really wanted to have a smaller pan to put in my Gibson GA-5 (5 watts). I've read in this thread that smaller pans don't sound so great. Is that really true?
Its true but not unusable. Probably still better than a pedal.
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kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 08:21 PM
Getting a gut shot would be difficult at this point. I mounted the PCB on the enclosure back plate and sanded down the screw end to be flush with the bottom. I also kept the wires short to the switch and pots. This makes it difficult to open and get a good gut shot without loosening the pots, jacks etc. But I'm happy to help out with any questions.
I'm feeling stubborn on this small pan thing. May have to order a small pan and hear it for myself .
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cambeezy
Joined: Jun 26, 2007
Posts: 399
Cleveland, Ohio
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Posted on Feb 24 2015 08:48 PM
kinski wrote:
Getting a gut shot would be difficult at this point.
No worries.
I mounted the PCB on the enclosure back plate and sanded down the screw end to be flush with the bottom.
That's how I'd like to build this pedal. I think I'll remove the foot switch tho, 'cause the reverb is always lit on my rig.
I'm feeling stubborn on this small pan thing. May have to order a small pan and hear it for myself .
Go for it, man!
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ElBirkerio
Joined: Dec 17, 2012
Posts: 519
Vienna
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Posted on Feb 25 2015 12:13 AM
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Feb 25 2015 05:03 PM
ElBirkerio wrote:
here is mine
Looks great Wolfi !!
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driptone
Joined: Feb 08, 2015
Posts: 32
Chicago
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Posted on Feb 25 2015 05:18 PM
Hey Wolfi... that looks nice! Mine is getting close, pics to come soon!
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kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Mar 02 2015 02:24 PM
A question for everyone that tried shorter pans with their build. Seems nobody liked the results. I'm curious, did you use 2 or 3 springs?
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Mar 02 2015 02:35 PM
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kinski
Joined: Jan 16, 2015
Posts: 36
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Posted on Mar 02 2015 02:41 PM
Hmmmm....okay. Maybe I'll skip the short pan idea. I didnt expect the best reverb from the short pan, but "shit" seems pretty bad. I'll just stick to a "belton brick module" pedal that I built.
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ElBirkerio
Joined: Dec 17, 2012
Posts: 519
Vienna
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Posted on Mar 03 2015 03:36 AM
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Gilette
Joined: May 04, 2014
Posts: 734
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Posted on Mar 03 2015 02:05 PM
ElBirkerio wrote:
hi kinski!
just wondering - how did you avoid bringing the FETs into contact with ground while using "something" as a heat sink?
yours
wolfi
You need to mount the fets with a mica spacer and a nylon isolation bushing on the screw. Make sure the fets are isolated from the cooling fin. Use a small amount of heat conductive paste on both sides of the mica spacer.
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