Clarry
Joined: Oct 01, 2014
Posts: 519
Streatham, London
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Posted on Jan 29 2017 03:00 PM
That's amazing Ariel!! Amazing!
Can I just say, when you get the "sound", everything comes apparent. You suddenly feel the music, you hear that lovely quack when you deaden the strings with the heal of your hand, you experience the wave of warmth with chord play.
Plunking along with simple stuff can be mesmerising.
It gives me 10 times the confidence as a player because I'm hearing what I want to hear.
Lovely!
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shake_n_stomp
Joined: Jan 09, 2014
Posts: 615
Vancouver BC
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Posted on Jan 29 2017 06:13 PM
Clarry wrote:
That's amazing Ariel!! Amazing!
Can I just say, when you get the "sound", everything comes apparent. You suddenly feel the music, you hear that lovely quack when you deaden the strings with the heal of your hand, you experience the wave of warmth with chord play.
Plunking along with simple stuff can be mesmerising.
It gives me 10 times the confidence as a player because I'm hearing what I want to hear.
Lovely!
Yeah, as I am working through a tune (tabbing it out) and just using my unplugged guitar, it's great to plug it into the reverb and everything comes alive...a real 'ahhhhhhh, that's it!' moment
— Lorne
The Surf Shakers: https://www.facebook.com/TheSurfShakers
Vancouver BC Canada
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Jan 29 2017 06:44 PM
Here's some pics and info on my recent SB R3/Harbor Freight Toolbox build...
As you can see, nothing really new or outstanding cosmetically, but there are some other notable(?) features:
- Mini toggle switch on panel for the "C10 mod" - I lifted one leg of C1 and wired it to the switch, toggles between the stock SB value and the vintage Fender value. I find the Fender value really cleans up the more extreme DWELL settings for a great "First Wave" sound. Hmmm, an ON/OFF/ON switch could be used to toggle between three values (selecting between two different caps to add to the board's C10 cap, or not); I think I may do that...
- Isolated ground on the INPUT jack. It doesn't ground to the box/chassis, just to the board via shielded cable. This can help prevent ground loop hum issues (this build has zero hum, even at 10-10-10). The only box/chassis ground is at the output jack (also via shielded cable).
- Reverb ON/OFF 1/4" footswitch jack. It's the old-school version (carries the signal), but if I use it at all, it'll be with a very short shielded cable.
- Most important, a Revisit reverb pan, #4AB3C1C (for vertical mounting). It's vertical mounting give the box a maximum free space to carry a power supply, whiskey flask, etc. The pan is secured in place using self-adhesive closed-cell weatherstripping available at hardware and home improvement stores. Its open side is covered with a piece of corrugated cardboard (from a USPS Priority Mail box, to be precise).
BTW, I don't know why the Revisit pan doesn't get more mention here, IMO it's the Cadillac of the currently-made spring tanks! It's warmer than the MIK Accutronics, way better splash and way less boomy than the MOD; the decay is simply beautiful in fact. Sure, it's more expensive than the others, but why skimp on what's arguably the most important single component in the tank's signal path? We're not talking a whole lot of money here, folks, ~$40 with a 3-year warranty (No, I have no financial interest in them...)
And while on the subject of reverb pans, here's my observation regarding vertical vs. horizontal mounting of the same pan: yes, it does make a slight but noticeable difference in the sound, it least in this case. I've found that the Revisit pan sounds more open and dimensional when oriented per its designation (in this case, "C" for vertical mounting). Mounting it horizontally causes some midrangey "smear" and a slight attentuation of the reverb tail. Again, not drastic but noticeable in an A/B test conducted simply by turning the tank over on its front. This was a "blind" test, too... But, I can't say this holds true for other tank brands - it is worth checking out, though, I believe.
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 03:30 AM
Gilette wrote:
Wow... Impressive build! I like the printed faceplate too. Must be a challenge to get all the wires back in there.
Thank you! Yep, a little bit challenging, but that box is huge. I purposely used different wire types, some solid some stranded, testing the pliability, in hopes of learning what stays and what goes.
kick_the_reverb wrote:
Nice Ariel!
What do the 4-position knob and switch do? My guess switch turns on the knob which is a 4-position reverb color selector?
Thanks Ran! Right, the rotary is for the capacitor mod (only for left channel)... I'll leave pos.1 as 'through'. The slide-switch is leftover from the previous build where it toggled between buffered and true-bypass (redundant experiment - sounds the same). Here I'll probably assign it to be part of the crazy double mono / AB scheme I still trying to wrap my head around...
wfoguy wrote:
Well, crap. Here we go again. I wait a week and more stuff shows up.
Now I'm probably going to have to have a laser cut legend plate and have it coated with unobtanium! Looks great Ariel!
I feel you. Awesome, incredibly creative stuff popping all over.
Though one can plate it with gold and diamonds, the Surfy-Bear has more of a proletarian vibe. All those toolboxes builds reflect that perfectly, "A working man's reverb" - classic!
So, for anybody who's doubtful of his skills - I say - Stick it on a cardboard and wrap it with aluminum foil, it will work.
stratdancer wrote:
Wow!!! Nice build!
Thanks! Soon I'll be joining you in stereo bliss!
Clarry wrote:
That's amazing Ariel!! Amazing!
Thank you!
It gives me 10 times the confidence as a player because I'm hearing what I want to hear.
So true, I feel the same way. Never got that from any digital thing. Every string touch blossoms to sound so sweet, big and wonderful.
I'll be getting some cool knobs, will post more pics once it's assembled.
Last edited: Jan 30, 2017 03:38:33
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stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2537
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 06:39 AM
DB, I have a hole position open that I saved for the rotary cap selector. Where would be a good source for that pot?
— The Kahuna Kings
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447
https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases
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stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2537
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 08:28 AM
Using an A/B switch works great! Going from massive drip to almost clean is a big plus! The Duel Reverb Quilty Bear looks a little busy though.
— The Kahuna Kings
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447
https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases
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wfoguy
Joined: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 2133
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 11:46 AM
Strat dancer, Amplified Parts is where I purchased mine.
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stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2537
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 11:52 AM
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Single_Fin
Joined: Sep 30, 2016
Posts: 32
Orange County, CA
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 11:57 AM
Figured I'd share my build. Just a plywood box, koa trim, and a koa faceplate. The finish could be better, but I'm at a point in life where done well enough is better than aiming for perfection. I'm using a short spring, medium decay Accutronix tank. Sounds great!
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wfoguy
Joined: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 2133
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 07:50 PM
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stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2537
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Jan 30 2017 08:53 PM
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 04:29 AM
Got something cooking up here! Building the most compact full size spring reverb in the world. Circuit copyrights by Björn Isheden and design copyrights by Sven Sebastian Roll. This will be the ultimate Surf Musician touring rig especially for going on plane to play international. Everything is in the inside of the pan.
— http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang
Last edited: Feb 04, 2017 04:41:17
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 07:10 AM
LaFleur wrote:
Got something cooking up here! Building the most compact full size spring reverb in the world. Circuit copyrights by Björn Isheden and design copyrights by Sven Sebastian Roll. This will be the ultimate Surf Musician touring rig especially for going on plane to play international. Everything is in the inside of the pan.
Superb! how brilliantly compact. The cabling from the top plate to tank looks a little suspect, should it touch the floating spring mechanism. It's a very cool design though. I'd like to do something similar with some DIY Quilter foot switches included - In my dreams! I don't quite have the confidence because it's also a fine way to trash a Quilter Amplifier!
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wfoguy
Joined: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 2133
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 07:22 AM
^^^^^^
Please explain all of the controls.
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LaFleur
Joined: May 20, 2009
Posts: 525
Leipzig
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 07:54 AM
Don't worry about the cables, it will just fit fine. I only need to do some insulation work, to avoid short circuits when the pan gets kicked real hard.
On the left side you have the on/off switch (true bypass), the first control on the left is the gain control (its not wired yet as it needs a small buffer circuit) - Input - Dwell - Mix 1 - Mix 2 - Output - Tone - Mix 1/ Mix 2 switch.
— http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang
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Gilette
Joined: May 04, 2014
Posts: 734
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 09:01 AM
LaFleur wrote:
Don't worry about the cables, it will just fit fine. I only need to do some insulation work, to avoid short circuits when the pan gets kicked real hard.
On the left side you have the on/off switch (true bypass), the first control on the left is the gain control (its not wired yet as it needs a small buffer circuit) - Input - Dwell - Mix 1 - Mix 2 - Output - Tone - Mix 1/ Mix 2 switch.
Aren't you worried about the crashing springs every time you kick the switches? I like the way you've made use of the pan as a chassis.
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wfoguy
Joined: Dec 11, 2011
Posts: 2133
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 10:56 AM
LaFleur, are you considering using the 4 holes on each end for a u shaped riser to support it from the floor? If one was to use 1" wide strap and put non-skid material on it, that would add stability and make it possible to set an angle if desired. If that was a direction to consider, you could put rubber bushings in the mounts to absorb vibrations. Maybe a rubber mount such as this: https://www.mcmaster.com/#9016k113/=167k2hp
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 11:41 AM
Bold idea, LaFleur!
I too would suggest you have some type (preferably multiple) of vibration isolation. Feet al least...
Research "relay bypass" to use clickless switches. Many methods.
Is that pan meant to have open side up? (last digit:A). There's supposed to be an internal difference in clearance that in your case I can see it being beneficial.
Then again, if it's noise free, you win.
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DannySnyder
Joined: Mar 02, 2006
Posts: 11054
Berkeley, CA
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 11:48 AM
Please post a demo when it's done Sven
— Danny Snyder
"With great reverb comes great responsibility" - Uncle Leo
Playing keys and guitar with Combo Tezeta
Formerly a guitarist in The TomorrowMen and Meshugga Beach Party
Latest surf project - Now That's What I Call SURF
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NoWaterWings
Joined: Feb 04, 2017
Posts: 9
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Posted on Feb 04 2017 07:24 PM
Hey fellas,
Read the entire thread a couple of weeks ago and decided I had to check this out. Just finished soldering all the connections about 45 minutes ago (took me 3 hours, never have assembled anything myself before other than wiring guitars) and have been testing it out.
I know its lame to have the first post being asking for help, sorry! One can only learn so much from pictures of different surfy bear circuits. But, I've been catching some distortion and gain which is not normal. I am playing a vintage g&l sc-2 and the pickups are not horribly hot. I switched up all the RCA jacks because I remember that being the cause for some, but my current configuration is definitely correct - the reverb itself sounds lush. Turning the dwell pot down almost all the way helps a bit, but where is the fun in that? I turned the gain trimpot counter clockwise some but have not had much luck, neither in being able to turn it nor in my results: still some harsh-ish distortion! Any ideas?
Edit: To add another quick question for those with electrical talents: I read it is a good idea to ground the board to the chassis at some point - where do y'all choose to do that? Cause I have some heavy buzz/humm that I am hoping to fix through shielding/grounding
Thanks in advance, this reverb is the coolest thing I have ever built guitar wise and all the creativity here is super inspiring, and I am excited to become a part of it.
Last edited: Feb 04, 2017 20:00:50
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