I'm still really excited about this reverb project, even more than when I first assembled, played, kicked and heard it. I found that I'm playing a lot more since! Also, trying out different pans, impedances, learning and sharing all this information with this enthusiastic community, all the creative ideas... Fun!
I recommend to every player, even if you're already set with a tube unit, to experiment with the Surfy-Bear, an elegant, tiny and awesome sounding solution that will make you smile.

sonni wrote:

Somewhere before Ariel mentioned that those DAMPER DISCS make the decay -
What then do we need that long springs for, Ariel? Could anybody shrink also the pan, please?

I didn't design the damm thing
If someone comes up with new pan type, shorter but with same qualities needed for surf music (drip not tail), it surely will have a market. I wish I had the knowledge for that, I'm learning...

As far as I get it, the initial decay and other properties are fixed by the spring specifications, and then finer tuning is done by choosing a specific disc diameter.
I suspect there's not much room too tinker with, but don't let me stop you. for the benefit of Spring Knowledge and Education, someone will finally have to sacrifice a unit or two...

That's how it all started, btw:

bjoish wrote:

I got this for Christmas from my family!
They know whats been on my mind the last year
Now I will have to stick to my iPhone4 as long as possible...

Björn, that's a cool present, very nice!
Thanks again for the R4 unit you sent. I'll use it in a different scheme this time.

Last edited: Dec 29, 2014 13:05:04

LaFleur wrote:

Bjosh wrote:

"The FET reverb circuit is not sensitive to in/out pan impedances."

Does this really mean we can use any type of reverb pan (except that the insulation have to be the same as on the 4AB3C1B to avoid hum)?

Yes and no.
You wont fry anything by connecting pans with different impedances.
But the reverb signal will in most cases be attenuated.
For gain and frequency response similar to a 6G15 you should use a 4AB3C1B (or 4AB3C1C).

ludobag wrote:

you seems impatient to try it ,careful of the polarity and the courant ,the surfy need DC and well regulated (Bjorn know where to find good one)
to try it before you receive the right power supply for,you could try any 9 v dc regulated for effect ,just to be careful of the polarity and avoid to play it long hours cause this power unit are too less A (more or less 100 or 200 mA) and it will warm really hot but it will works

Hey Ludo and thanks for the concern. It was no problem at all, I just had a crappy power supply. I took it from a Wlan router I once owned (and I kept the power supply). This one wasn't isolated at all and caused some serious hum in the circuit. The only one left in that huge box of power supplies was a 12V EH, but AC. That's why I asked. I went to town today and got the right supply for it (12V DC 1.5A) and it's up and running fine now. Very smooth, no hum at all. Can't wait to test it at practice.

In the meantime my buddy built his own 'tank'. He says it's V 1.0 and not ready at all, but I think it looks pretty decent for a quick assembly. What do you guys think?





(Sorry, no banana for scale )

We also have something different in mind, something more pragmatic. Stay tuned for some more builds

The Hicadoolas

Last edited: Dec 29, 2014 15:16:46

Killer! Awesome concept. Imagine that on top of a Twin, taking care of business!

Sweet, man! That's some serious build you got there. Very tidy, I like it.

The Hicadoolas

The lid won't ever be open when the unit is under power so it shouldn't be a problem.

Bill S._______

HELLDIVER on Facebook

Remora,
I like the computer-style power plug installed on the toolbox wall, it's neat and robust, and eliminates wallwart crowding at the power strip by housing it all safely in the large box. The power transformer doesn't create a EM field that influences the tank at all? If not, I may modify my own toolbox build (Vintage Craftsman) to match.

Squink Out!

SanchoPansen wrote:

Awesome!
That was a cute looking tank

bjoish wrote:

Yep, totally cute. You should sit a
Plush Cthulhu

on top when you gig.

SanchoPansen wrote:

Awesome!
That was a cute looking tank

Squink Out!

Last edited: Dec 29, 2014 23:20:28

dboomer wrote:

Great ... now you'll never have to explain to anyone's widow.

Now, just disconnect that brown wire that goes from the switch to the ground terminal. It doesn't do anything but if there is a catastrophic failure it could dump the line voltage onto the chassis.

OK done. I should add that although I've had little experience with electronics, I can read a schematic (up to a point) and follow instructions and anyone who's thinking they would want to build this should go for it. Bjorn's documentation and the photos make it simple enough that I think anyone with a little patience and some soldering practice could put it together with no problems.
This kit really is impressive. To my ears it's almost indiscernible from my tube tank. I think that there are mechanical interactions in the spring pan that you're never going to get from any pedal simulation (analog or digital). For recording I'd probably still go with the tubes but in a live setting I doubt anyone could tell the difference.
If you don't own or can't afford a tube driven tank, or simply must have a stompbox-sized solution, by all means continue on your quest. As for the rest, you have reached your destination.

Bill S._______

HELLDIVER on Facebook

Last edited: Dec 30, 2014 10:48:01