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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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bjoish wrote:

DreadInBabylon wrote:

From Accutronics website:
In addition to the coil and magnets......

I diddnt know that. Very interesting, Ariel!
So the decay time is all about those damper discs.
I wonder if it possible to modify the decay time or the delay time...

I suppose the damper discs are hidden inside the brass sleeves at the top:

image

Maybe these discs can get damaged and cause the distorted sound that I have in one of my pans...

The mechanics of this thing are so delicate. A miracle it even works, I tell ya! I suspect any tiny damage or mis-alignment of one of these small parts can lead to a chain reaction of parts behaving outside their tolerances.
As far as I understand:
The length of the initial decay is fixed by the spring's physical properties, but to a particular pan, the damper disks dial it in.
The inter-phasing (through different timing) between the 2 sets in Type4 is responsible for the specific EQ profile of the reverb.
I suspect that tinkering with those disks can dramatically manipulate both decay and tone of a pan. If only we knew what we were doing... Big Grin

Last edited: Dec 09, 2014 12:23:13

The mail is here !
image

It comes with a banana now?
Confused

Jeff(bigtikidude)

Banana's for scale. The board is smaller than I expected. Big Grin

I thought that was going to be your enclosure and then steal the idea.

Mike
http://www.youtube.com/morphballio

Here in Europe where bananas are strictly EU sized we can use them to make accurate measurements..

Is that a banana or are you just happy to see your new reverb board?

If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.

Waoo This new board is really small
And yellow and curve more over

warioblast wrote:

Banana's for scale. The board is smaller than I expected. Big Grin

Bjorn, you've shrunk the Fetverb board!
image

I found a cool idea for a cab. Not sure I have the skills & the tools to go down that road though. It also looks easier than properly applying tolex or tweed.

warioblast wrote:

I found a cool idea for a cab. Not sure I have the skills & the tools to go down that road though. It also looks easier than properly applying tolex or tweed.

Cool idea, but I am not sure it easier than tolex.
The process seems a bit messy.
The only difficult thing about Tolex is the corners. But there are Youtube videos that shows how to do it.

Guys, I have some noobish questions regarding pilot lights. I have only build pedals so far.

I'd like to put a jewel light. It looks like the standard Fender bulb is rated 6.3V. Can I power it using 12V and a simple resistor ?

I only see bulb holders for BA9S. imageDo you have to somehow mount those on a regular pilot lamp assembly image
Or are BA9S as big as the #47 ? I'm totally lost. Confused

Would a big white LED be bright enough for a regular Jewel light image

I have used an 8mm red LED (maybe 10mm works) inside a regular jewel (without the back assembly)

image

Just a little glue to keep it in place Big Grin
and remember to use a series resistor!

You can use the same bulb holder with a 12V bulb:

http://www.grainger.com/product/4VDY1?cm_sp=HIO-_-HIDP-_-RR_VTV_P&cm_vc=IDPRRZ11&zoneId=IDPRRZ11

A resistor will also work. The #47 bulb draws 150 mA at 6.3V, so a 47 ohm, 2-watt resistor would do the trick. It's cheaper to just get the right kind of 12V bulb.

If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.

I used an LED bulb in a conventional Fender jewel light assembly no resistor required. I used a yellow LED to match the yellow jewel glass and luminesce is spot-on perfect. It may have been brighter with a white bulb though.

I bought mine from eBay UK:
"2x Yellow Wide-Angle LED [233,T4W,BA9S] 12v Indicator/Side Light/Interior Bulbs"

image

BJB wrote:

You can use the same bulb holder with a 12V bulb:

^ This.
I found a $2 NOS lighted switch at an Electronic Surplus store. Removed the LED, added some 'extension wire' and soldered it to the Fender lamp housing:
image
No resistor needed! Or you could just get a lower voltage LED (calculator) and add in a resistor.
edited to say make sure you slip that ring-nut over the bulb housing before you solder or you will be swearing!
image

Last edited: Dec 11, 2014 14:52:27

Thanks guys Wink

I have one very last noobish question before I order my parts. Here's to hopping so ! I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind of switch I need and how to wire it.
I made some researches on the internet and I found out the original fender reverbs use DPST switches, right ? How do you wire those things ?
By looking at photos here, it looks like some of you guys used SPST.
Once again I'm totally confused.
I'd like the reverb unit to let the signal go through even when off, and the lamp only lit when it's on. I don't know how original units behave in that matter.
Thanks a million.

I made this diagram for the previous board but since version 4 the optional contacts are no longer part of the design but it might help you understand.

image

As above but the LED now becomes part of the switch loop. I used a Carling SPST toggle, it didn't matter which way around I wired it.

Last edited: Dec 14, 2014 11:06:07

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