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I was wondering if this is the correct mod
for the Fender Reverb unit..reissue
6v6 change to NOS rca 6k6gt
12at7 change to NOS mullard cv4024(cant find this anywhere)
12ax7 change to NOS jan ge 5751
and the cap mod..c10 to a 390 or 500 pf mica cap
Thanks for any help! Surfs up!
I don't know if there is any one "correct" mod for the RI reverb
tank, but the magic word is "NOS". The use of NOS tubes is what
really makes the mods on the RI reverb tank effective, IMHO. I'm not
sure how critical a specific brand is (e.g., RCA vs. Mullard vs. GE,
etc.), but the use of NOS tubes definitely adds a certain "something"
to the tank - I highly recommend it. Here are my thoughts on the
swaps that cbtattoos mentions:
6V6 change to NOS RCA 6K6GT: Put in a 6K6 - it does wonders! Doesn't
have to be an RCA 6K6GT to work - just NOS. BYW.the "GT" suffix
refers to the small (T9) glass bulb shape.
12AT7 change to NOS Mullard CV4024: I'm not sure what a CV4024 is,
but I'm guessing that it's an audiophile 12AT7. Find a NOS 12AT7 and
put it in!
12AX7 change to NOS JAN GE 5751: The 5751 is a "ruggedized" 12AX7;
the "JAN" stands for Joint-Army Navy. As you might imagine, JAN
tubes are tough! Again, any NOS 12AX7 should do the trick.
Well, guess I should get off my tube soapbox - the bottom line is,
just find a NOS 6K6, a NOS 12AX7, and a NOS 12AT7 and pop them in
your tank. I don't think it's critical to worry about matching the
brands to those that cbtattoos mentioned - of course, I could be
wrong, as I haven't tried those specific types. I just put some
RCA's in my RI tank, because that's what I had lying around . . . and
it makes a definite improvement!!
As for the cap swap, I think you can use anything around a 390 - 500
pf cap for C10. Make sure it's a silver mica cap, not the flat
ceramic type. I think the silver mica caps are a bit more robust and
make the mod work more effectively. I've done that one and love it!
Good luck with your RI reverb tank mods - you'll be really happy with
the results!
-Dick
Be careful buying NOS. People know that those tubes are more desirable. Don't
buy 'em on ebay unless you trust the seller. I've been burned on bunk NOS
tubes. With tubes, buy the ones that sound the best at the store. Go to an amp
shop.
Damon
flatwound01 <> wrote: I don't know if there is any one
"correct" mod for the RI reverb
tank, but the magic word is "NOS". The use of NOS tubes is what
really makes the mods on the RI reverb tank effective, IMHO. I'm not
sure how critical a specific brand is (e.g., RCA vs. Mullard vs. GE,
etc.), but the use of NOS tubes definitely adds a certain "something"
to the tank - I highly recommend it. Here are my thoughts on the
swaps that cbtattoos mentions:
6V6 change to NOS RCA 6K6GT: Put in a 6K6 - it does wonders! Doesn't
have to be an RCA 6K6GT to work - just NOS. BYW.the "GT" suffix
refers to the small (T9) glass bulb shape.
12AT7 change to NOS Mullard CV4024: I'm not sure what a CV4024 is,
but I'm guessing that it's an audiophile 12AT7. Find a NOS 12AT7 and
put it in!
12AX7 change to NOS JAN GE 5751: The 5751 is a "ruggedized" 12AX7;
the "JAN" stands for Joint-Army Navy. As you might imagine, JAN
tubes are tough! Again, any NOS 12AX7 should do the trick.
Well, guess I should get off my tube soapbox - the bottom line is,
just find a NOS 6K6, a NOS 12AX7, and a NOS 12AT7 and pop them in
your tank. I don't think it's critical to worry about matching the
brands to those that cbtattoos mentioned - of course, I could be
wrong, as I haven't tried those specific types. I just put some
RCA's in my RI tank, because that's what I had lying around . . . and
it makes a definite improvement!!
As for the cap swap, I think you can use anything around a 390 - 500
pf cap for C10. Make sure it's a silver mica cap, not the flat
ceramic type. I think the silver mica caps are a bit more robust and
make the mod work more effectively. I've done that one and love it!
Good luck with your RI reverb tank mods - you'll be really happy with
the results!
-Dick
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