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Hey All,
I guess I should first admit that my initial question about the strat
bridge was really basically a precursor for this question.
About a year ago, I picked up an old Fender Bronco. I knew from the
get-go it was in somewhat rough shape, but as soon as I took it home
and cleaned it up a bit, I began to realize that basically the only
problem with the guitar was that someone "refinished" it using cheap
red spray paint.
Now I know Broncos came with a bridge that was infamous for getting
knocked out of tune at the slightest touch. On this guitar, that's
not a problem because the previous owner put on a tele-style, non-
trem bridge. But now I want to put on some sort of whammy bar, but
can't decide what I want to do with it.
So, to all you whammy-philes out there, I was wondering what you
might recommend. I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting the
bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do much routing or
carving.
My other question along with that would be which Bigsby model would I
need, and would I be able to use something like a Mustang bridge in
there, or would I have to by a Bigsby bridge as well.
Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
Thanks,
~Bill~
Not that I really know about this stuff, but I was thinking that a
Bigsby might do the trick for ya. Maybe add some lockig tuners or
a new nut that allows the strings to slide, but not catch.
That's the problem with the guitar I have. The trem works good.
Like a strat trem. But the strings slide thru the nut and catch, then
it goes out of tune. Maybe some flatwounds would work. But it's just
a mid 80's Kramer strat lookalike, with a pointy headstock.
I just need to sell it and my matching Kramer Bass, and get a nice
P-Bass.
Jeff(bigtikidude)
--- In , "Bill Bergstrom"
<swingin_cat@h...> wrote:
> Hey All,
> I guess I should first admit that my initial question about the
strat
> bridge was really basically a precursor for this question.
>
> About a year ago, I picked up an old Fender Bronco. I knew from
the
> get-go it was in somewhat rough shape, but as soon as I took it
home
> and cleaned it up a bit, I began to realize that basically the only
> problem with the guitar was that someone "refinished" it using
cheap
> red spray paint.
>
> Now I know Broncos came with a bridge that was infamous for getting
> knocked out of tune at the slightest touch. On this guitar, that's
> not a problem because the previous owner put on a tele-style, non-
> trem bridge. But now I want to put on some sort of whammy bar, but
> can't decide what I want to do with it.
>
> So, to all you whammy-philes out there, I was wondering what you
> might recommend. I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting the
> bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do much routing
or
> carving.
>
> My other question along with that would be which Bigsby model would
I
> need, and would I be able to use something like a Mustang bridge in
> there, or would I have to by a Bigsby bridge as well.
>
> Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
>
> Thanks,
> ~Bill~
You should be able to install a Bigsby B-5 (or B-500) for solid
body guitars it's the model Fender is using for its Tele w/
vibrato and on some solid-body Gretsch guitars. The body has to
be flat-faced for the trem to fit properly and it just screws right to
the face. You might want to fit it with a Tune-O-Matic type bridge,
although the Bronco or a Mustang bridge would probably work
okay and is already set correctly for the Fender neck, which is
more curved than a Gibson-style.
The feel of a Bigsby is very different from Fender's trem systems
I like them compared to Fender designs. A bit smoother and
more controlled. The Bigsby might solve the tuning problem on
its own, or it may not. If it doesn't, you could take Jeff's
suggestions and try the locking tuners, different strings, or have
a low-friction nut like the GraphTech Tusq installed.
Gavin
I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> > just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting the
> > bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do
much routing
> or
> > carving.
> >
> > My other question along with that would be which Bigsby
model would
> I
> > need, and would I be able to use something like a Mustang
bridge in
> > there, or would I have to buy a Bigsby bridge as well.
> >
> > Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > ~Bill~
I have to give a counter-testimony, Gavin,
I have the Fender '52 RI Tele with the Bigsby B-5 and the Bigsby is not very
positive in its operation. It requires significantly more push on the bar to
give the desired effect and it has maybe half the range of pitch bending that
the Strat trem has. But it stays in tune purdy well and it looks neato!
-Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: Gavin Ehringer
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 1:53 PM
Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Re: Another bridge questions
You should be able to install a Bigsby B-5 (or B-500) for solid
body guitars - it's the model Fender is using for its Tele w/
vibrato and on some solid-body Gretsch guitars. The body has to
be flat-faced for the trem to fit properly and it just screws right to
the face. You might want to fit it with a Tune-O-Matic type bridge,
although the Bronco or a Mustang bridge would probably work
okay and is already set correctly for the Fender neck, which is
more curved than a Gibson-style.
The feel of a Bigsby is very different from Fender's trem systems
- I like them compared to Fender designs. A bit smoother and
more controlled. The Bigsby might solve the tuning problem on
its own, or it may not. If it doesn't, you could take Jeff's
suggestions and try the locking tuners, different strings, or have
a low-friction nut like the GraphTech Tusq installed.
Gavin
I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> > just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting the
> > bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do
much routing
> or
> > carving.
> >
> > My other question along with that would be which Bigsby
model would
> I
> > need, and would I be able to use something like a Mustang
bridge in
> > there, or would I have to buy a Bigsby bridge as well.
> >
> > Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > ~Bill~
.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've only used the Gretch-style Bigsby (on a Gretsch Duo-Jet), it
wasn't the B-5 model. So, I was speaking in general. I'm sure
you're right about the Bigsby B-5, but it's all feel, isn't it?
I've had two Fender Japan off-set waist guitars, a Jag and a
Jazzmaster. Identical tremelos, right? The Jag was mushy and
the arm never stayed in place, while the Jazz is more responsive
(still not great, tho), and the arm stays right where I leave it. It
befuddles me.
Given that surf only requires a tiny trem warble, the range doesn't
seem to matter much.
My favorite trem right now is on my Retrotone Surfmaster and
it is simply a knockoff of a Strat trem! Sucker works good,
though, and stays in tune through an entire playing session of
two hours or more.
--- In , "Marty Tippens" <mctippens@e...> wrot=
e:
> I have to give a counter-testimony, Gavin,
>
> I have the Fender '52 RI Tele with the Bigsby B-5 and the
Bigsby is not very positive in its operation. It requires significantly
more push on the bar to give the desired effect and it has maybe
half the range of pitch bending that the Strat trem has. But it
stays in tune purdy well and it looks neato!
>
> -Marty
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gavin Ehringer
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 1:53 PM
> Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Re: Another bridge questions
>
>
> You should be able to install a Bigsby B-5 (or B-500) for solid
> body guitars - it's the model Fender is using for its Tele w/
> vibrato and on some solid-body Gretsch guitars. The body
has to
> be flat-faced for the trem to fit properly and it just screws right
to
> the face. You might want to fit it with a Tune-O-Matic type
bridge,
> although the Bronco or a Mustang bridge would probably
work
> okay and is already set correctly for the Fender neck, which is
> more curved than a Gibson-style.
>
> The feel of a Bigsby is very different from Fender's trem
systems
> - I like them compared to Fender designs. A bit smoother and
> more controlled. The Bigsby might solve the tuning problem
on
> its own, or it may not. If it doesn't, you could take Jeff's
> suggestions and try the locking tuners, different strings, or
have
> a low-friction nut like the GraphTech Tusq installed.
>
> Gavin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> > > just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting
the
> > > bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do
> much routing
> > or
> > > carving.
> > >
> > > My other question along with that would be which Bigsby
> model would
> > I
> > > need, and would I be able to use something like a
Mustang
> bridge in
> > > there, or would I have to buy a Bigsby bridge as well.
> > >
> > > Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > ~Bill~
>
>
>
> .
> Visit for
archived messages, bookmarks, files, polls, etc.
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
for what it's worth,
consider what other guitars you have, and how you use them (live,
rehearsals and so). I had a DeArmond with a bigsbytype trem, and
loved it, the trem that is. HOWEVER, as with all things finger, the
movements get into your hands, and it's the switching between
different guiatrs that might screw you up. I ended up never using the
dearmond trem (and therefor: the deArmond)because my main ax is a
strat and my trem movements on the bigsby were always way off what i
inteded to do ... (and then when i finally got used to it, my
movements on the strat were off)
some other points
- the nut has got nothing to do with the trem type. if strings get
stuck in it, it's not filed (sic?) properly, and it won't work with
any trem.
- if the bridge gives you trouble, consider a roller bridge. it's a
gibson style tune-o-matic bridge with little turning wheels as
saddles to guide the strings, should work like a charme.
- I personally think that any trem can be set up to work properly. As
long as all thing causing friction (either in contact with strings or
in the trem mechanism) are smooth and all springs are still
functioning well, it should be okay. admittedly, this is more
a 'religious' statement then it is technical! But I found that
usually when 'something is wrong with the trem', it's usually either
the set-up, the nut or the saddles.
- when ordering a bigsby, beware that they make a 'screw on flat
top'model as well as a 'real' tele-model, that is shaped to take the
place of the tele bridge plate. Don't think you'd want it on a
bronco...
--- In , "Gavin Ehringer"
<gavinehringer@e...> wrote:
> I've only used the Gretch-style Bigsby (on a Gretsch Duo-Jet), it
> wasn't the B-5 model. So, I was speaking in general. I'm sure
> you're right about the Bigsby B-5, but it's all feel, isn't it?
>
> I've had two Fender Japan off-set waist guitars, a Jag and a
> Jazzmaster. Identical tremelos, right? The Jag was mushy and
> the arm never stayed in place, while the Jazz is more responsive
> (still not great, tho), and the arm stays right where I leave it.
It
> befuddles me.
>
>
> Given that surf only requires a tiny trem warble, the range doesn't
> seem to matter much.
>
> My favorite trem right now is on my Retrotone Surfmaster and
> it is simply a knockoff of a Strat trem! Sucker works good,
> though, and stays in tune through an entire playing session of
> two hours or more.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In , "Marty Tippens"
<mctippens@e...> wrot=
> e:
> > I have to give a counter-testimony, Gavin,
> >
> > I have the Fender '52 RI Tele with the Bigsby B-5 and the
> Bigsby is not very positive in its operation. It requires
significantly
> more push on the bar to give the desired effect and it has maybe
> half the range of pitch bending that the Strat trem has. But it
> stays in tune purdy well and it looks neato!
> >
> > -Marty
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Gavin Ehringer
> > To:
> > Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 1:53 PM
> > Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Re: Another bridge questions
> >
> >
> > You should be able to install a Bigsby B-5 (or B-500) for solid
> > body guitars - it's the model Fender is using for its Tele w/
> > vibrato and on some solid-body Gretsch guitars. The body
> has to
> > be flat-faced for the trem to fit properly and it just screws
right
> to
> > the face. You might want to fit it with a Tune-O-Matic type
> bridge,
> > although the Bronco or a Mustang bridge would probably
> work
> > okay and is already set correctly for the Fender neck, which is
> > more curved than a Gibson-style.
> >
> > The feel of a Bigsby is very different from Fender's trem
> systems
> > - I like them compared to Fender designs. A bit smoother and
> > more controlled. The Bigsby might solve the tuning problem
> on
> > its own, or it may not. If it doesn't, you could take Jeff's
> > suggestions and try the locking tuners, different strings, or
> have
> > a low-friction nut like the GraphTech Tusq installed.
> >
> > Gavin
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> > > > just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting
> the
> > > > bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do
> > much routing
> > > or
> > > > carving.
> > > >
> > > > My other question along with that would be which Bigsby
> > model would
> > > I
> > > > need, and would I be able to use something like a
> Mustang
> > bridge in
> > > > there, or would I have to buy a Bigsby bridge as well.
> > > >
> > > > Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > ~Bill~
> >
> >
> >
> > .
> > Visit for
> archived messages, bookmarks, files, polls, etc.
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
-------=
> -----
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> > a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> >
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> >
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> Terms of Service.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yeah Gavin,
It does come down to feel. The B-5 has a spongy feel making it difficult to get
the "tiny trem warble" used in surf.
-Marty
----- Original Message -----
From: Gavin Ehringer
To:
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 9:47 PM
Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Re: Another bridge questions
I've only used the Gretch-style Bigsby (on a Gretsch Duo-Jet), it
wasn't the B-5 model. So, I was speaking in general. I'm sure
you're right about the Bigsby B-5, but it's all feel, isn't it?
I've had two Fender Japan off-set waist guitars, a Jag and a
Jazzmaster. Identical tremelos, right? The Jag was mushy and
the arm never stayed in place, while the Jazz is more responsive
(still not great, tho), and the arm stays right where I leave it. It
befuddles me.
Given that surf only requires a tiny trem warble, the range doesn't
seem to matter much.
My favorite trem right now is on my Retrotone Surfmaster - and
it is simply a knockoff of a Strat trem! Sucker works good,
though, and stays in tune through an entire playing session of
two hours or more.
--- In , "Marty Tippens" <mctippens@e...> wrot=
e:
> I have to give a counter-testimony, Gavin,
>
> I have the Fender '52 RI Tele with the Bigsby B-5 and the
Bigsby is not very positive in its operation. It requires significantly
more push on the bar to give the desired effect and it has maybe
half the range of pitch bending that the Strat trem has. But it
stays in tune purdy well and it looks neato!
>
> -Marty
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gavin Ehringer
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2004 1:53 PM
> Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Re: Another bridge questions
>
>
> You should be able to install a Bigsby B-5 (or B-500) for solid
> body guitars - it's the model Fender is using for its Tele w/
> vibrato and on some solid-body Gretsch guitars. The body
has to
> be flat-faced for the trem to fit properly and it just screws right
to
> the face. You might want to fit it with a Tune-O-Matic type
bridge,
> although the Bronco or a Mustang bridge would probably
work
> okay and is already set correctly for the Fender neck, which is
> more curved than a Gibson-style.
>
> The feel of a Bigsby is very different from Fender's trem
systems
> - I like them compared to Fender designs. A bit smoother and
> more controlled. The Bigsby might solve the tuning problem
on
> its own, or it may not. If it doesn't, you could take Jeff's
> suggestions and try the locking tuners, different strings, or
have
> a low-friction nut like the GraphTech Tusq installed.
>
> Gavin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I was thinking maybe a Bigsby, because that would
> > > just entail me re-filling the old trem. cavity and mounting
the
> > > bigsby system, which would mean I wouldn't have to do
> much routing
> > or
> > > carving.
> > >
> > > My other question along with that would be which Bigsby
> model would
> > I
> > > need, and would I be able to use something like a
Mustang
> bridge in
> > > there, or would I have to buy a Bigsby bridge as well.
> > >
> > > Any help or suggestions would be appreciated!!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > ~Bill~
>
>
>
> .
> Visit for
archived messages, bookmarks, files, polls, etc.
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
-----
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
>
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>
>
> c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
.
Visit for archived messages,
bookmarks, files, polls, etc.
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ADVERTISEMENT
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In , "Gavin Ehringer"
>...
> I've had two Fender Japan off-set waist guitars, a Jag and a
> Jazzmaster. Identical tremelos, right? The Jag was mushy and
> the arm never stayed in place, while the Jazz is more responsive
> (still not great, tho), and the arm stays right where I leave it.
It sounds like the spring needed adjusting on the Jag (the screw
below the trem-loc). Assuming you are in the right neighborhood
tension-wise: engage the trem-loc, tune to pitch, then disengage the
trem-loc. Then turn the screw until the guitar returns to the proper
pitch.
If the trem-loc will not engage you may have to fiddle with the
screw first before trying the above procedure.
As for the arm, as long as you say its a Japanese guitar, then I
would try crimping the collet (with the arm in the sleeve). If that
doesn't work, you could try the method Dick Messick proposed for the
MIA guitars. Don't crimp the collet on an MIA guitar! Snap!
Good luck,
BN
Thanks Brian, you techno-wiz! Fortunately, I don't have to do
anything to the Jag (it got sold), but I did note that it had a
different, lighter-gage spring than the Jazzmaster. The collet on
the JM is, frankly, perfect.
My main beef isn't really with the Jazzmaster/Jaguar trem system
when properly adjusted, the whole thing (trem, bridge, etc.)
works just fine for the purpose it was made for...non-bruising,
early-60s style playing. This ain't a Floyd Rose locking trem
(those who want the dive bomb trem system should get a
Shecter).
I just find that, for me, the Bigsby felt pretty good. Again, it wasn't
meant for dive bombing, either.
Gavin
--- In , "Brian Neal" <
bneal@i...> wrote:
> --- In , "Gavin Ehringer"
> >...
> > I've had two Fender Japan off-set waist guitars, a Jag and a
> > Jazzmaster. Identical tremelos, right? The Jag was mushy
and
> > the arm never stayed in place, while the Jazz is more
responsive
> > (still not great, tho), and the arm stays right where I leave it.
>
> It sounds like the spring needed adjusting on the Jag (the
screw
> below the trem-loc). Assuming you are in the right
neighborhood
> tension-wise: engage the trem-loc, tune to pitch, then
disengage the
> trem-loc. Then turn the screw until the guitar returns to the
proper
> pitch.
>
> If the trem-loc will not engage you may have to fiddle with the
> screw first before trying the above procedure.
>
> As for the arm, as long as you say its a Japanese guitar, then I
> would try crimping the collet (with the arm in the sleeve). If that
> doesn't work, you could try the method Dick Messick proposed
for the
> MIA guitars. Don't crimp the collet on an MIA guitar! Snap!
>
> Good luck,
> BN
