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Yahoo Group Archives » Page 27 »

Scale lengths & Buzz Stops

Bill Bergstrom (surfbandbill) - 08 Jul 2003 17:41:26

First and foremost, it's been fascinating to hear what everyone has
to say on these topics. I, for one, stand by the Buzz Stop, no
matter what. I have one both on my '97 MIJ Jag as well as my brand-
spankin-new USA JM, and they have been a total blessing. From day
one, I always had a problem with strings slipping in the saddles on
my Jag, which always knocked it out of tune, and really just made for
a hassle. But now that I have the buzz stop on there (and have for
probably at least two years now) I've never had a single problem at
all. As a matter of fact, just last weekend was the first time I'd
EVER had a string break at the bridge since I put the Buzzstop on
there. Scary thing is, the buzz stop allows me so much freedom to
play hard again, that I have gotten to the point where I still have
the strings slip from time to time, even with the buzz stop on there.
As far as scale length is concerned, I really don't find much
difference between the various scale lengths of my guitars (RI Jag,
RI JM, '65 Magnatone, and a Dano Hodad), what I find to be the
biggest adjustment is the curvature of the neck -- the Jags are much
narrower than JMs and I'd wager to say a little bit "shallower" as
well. My JM seems at least to have a pretty beefy neck on it.
However, what I love is my Dano's neck -- it's probably the width of
a Jag or maybe a Strat, but it's really shallow, and seems to require
little as far as touch goes. Now I just have to find a Mosrite, so I
can get a REALLY narrow neck. Where I do find the HUGE switch is
when I pick up my Dano Baritone. I think the scale length on that is
somewhere in the neighborhood of 30" if I recall, which almost
completely changes your entire arm angle. It's ridiculous to play
that and then go back to a Jag -- in my mind it's like putting down a
guitar and picking up a uke.
One last things, for Wannes -- if you're looking for flatwounds, go
online. I don't know if some sites will accept foreign currencies,
but it's by far the best deal. My old music store used to sell
Chromes for something like $12 or $13, and I've found them at some
sites (if you buy a box) for as little as either $5.75 or $6. Cost
for dealers is right around $5, so that's by far the best you'll find.
~Bill~

Top

rock verb (mono_tones_1) - 09 Jul 2003 03:38:07

thanks for the the tip Bill, i'll do a search. Also, the expensive euro,
which is killing our economy btw, will make the $-priced strings even
cheaper for me! Foreign currency won't be a problem, I found that as long as
you have a credit card, most companies will ship around the world and charge
dollars on the cc.
>From: "Bill Bergstrom" <>
>Reply-To:
>To:
>Subject: [SurfGuitar101] Scale lengths & Buzz Stops
>Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2003 22:41:26 -0000
>
>First and foremost, it's been fascinating to hear what everyone has
>to say on these topics. I, for one, stand by the Buzz Stop, no
>matter what. I have one both on my '97 MIJ Jag as well as my brand-
>spankin-new USA JM, and they have been a total blessing. From day
>one, I always had a problem with strings slipping in the saddles on
>my Jag, which always knocked it out of tune, and really just made for
>a hassle. But now that I have the buzz stop on there (and have for
>probably at least two years now) I've never had a single problem at
>all. As a matter of fact, just last weekend was the first time I'd
>EVER had a string break at the bridge since I put the Buzzstop on
>there. Scary thing is, the buzz stop allows me so much freedom to
>play hard again, that I have gotten to the point where I still have
>the strings slip from time to time, even with the buzz stop on there.
>
>As far as scale length is concerned, I really don't find much
>difference between the various scale lengths of my guitars (RI Jag,
>RI JM, '65 Magnatone, and a Dano Hodad), what I find to be the
>biggest adjustment is the curvature of the neck -- the Jags are much
>narrower than JMs and I'd wager to say a little bit "shallower" as
>well. My JM seems at least to have a pretty beefy neck on it.
>However, what I love is my Dano's neck -- it's probably the width of
>a Jag or maybe a Strat, but it's really shallow, and seems to require
>little as far as touch goes. Now I just have to find a Mosrite, so I
>can get a REALLY narrow neck. Where I do find the HUGE switch is
>when I pick up my Dano Baritone. I think the scale length on that is
>somewhere in the neighborhood of 30" if I recall, which almost
>completely changes your entire arm angle. It's ridiculous to play
>that and then go back to a Jag -- in my mind it's like putting down a
>guitar and picking up a uke.
>
>One last things, for Wannes -- if you're looking for flatwounds, go
>online. I don't know if some sites will accept foreign currencies,
>but it's by far the best deal. My old music store used to sell
>Chromes for something like $12 or $13, and I've found them at some
>sites (if you buy a box) for as little as either $5.75 or $6. Cost
>for dealers is right around $5, so that's by far the best you'll find.
>
>~Bill~
>
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