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The truss rod should be used to set the string relief on the neck
properly. This adjustment is usually required several times a year
depending on the humidity changes where one lives. There is no exact
right answer to what the relief should be. Some players favor more
relief than others. To check relief, put a capo on the 1st fret, then,
while fretting the 14th fret, check the distance between the string
and the top of the 7th fret with a feeler guage-- I usually look for
relief of about .010". Once the neck relief is adjusted, then the
bridge can be raised and lowered to taste. Some players like to adjust
the string height to a specific value, I prefer to lower the strings
pretty radically, and then raise the bridge and/or the saddles until
there is no buzzing on any string on any fret when moderately
strummed. When changing string guage, the intonation will also have to
be reset, and when moving from smaller to larger guages, the nut slot
may need to be expanded to avoid string binding.
When adjusting a bolt on neck, I usually do not remove the neck, I
loosen the strings, push the D and G strings aside, and unscrew the
neck screws till it is possible to simply tilt the neck back to reach
the tension rod. I adjust the rod no more than a quarter turn, retune,
and check for proper neck relief. I usually wait no more than 10 or 15
minutes between tension rod adjustments. I always recommend that any
guitarist learn about guitar setups, there are several books available
with good guidance--and as with most things, practice makes perfect.
--- In , "Landlocked"
<thee_surrealist@h...> wrote:
> Yes it's another gear question: The action on my CIJ Jazzmaster is
> too high. It came with 0.10 nicklewounds, and I just installed 0.11
> Flatwounds. I noticed the action rose considerably. Should I adjust
> the truss rod; tighten or loosen the screw on the trem-lock system;
> does anyone have any tips?-Phillip
