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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink How solid is your intonation and what are your secrets?

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I've seen the Messer Chups several times now and noticed that despite the heavy use/abuse of tremolo on songs, Oleg never really tunes mid-set. I've only seen him touch up 1 string once the last time I saw them, but never before (and even then, it was barely out). I've been steadily working on getting my Jaguar more solid in those regards and have gone through the typical suggestions (shimming the neck, raising the bridge, sanding/smoothing the nut slots, lubing the nut slots and string tree) and the intonation is pretty good, but I can't imagine making my way through an entire set of surf tunes without having to at least touch up the tuning part way through.

I'm currently using a stock AVRI bridge with rocking function intact. I have experience with the StayTrem bridge, albeit on my Bass VI which still needs more setup work. Because of this, despite being impressed with the overall build quality of the StayTrem, I can't speak to how much it improves tuning stability with tremolo use yet.

Oleg uses a Mastery bridge and there's an eternal ongoing debate of Mastery vs Staytrem vs Stock with proper setup. What I want to know is how stable is your intonation and when it comes to staying in tune, is the Mastery bridge really that much better than other options out there or is there something else going on?

I don't mean to imply that this level of tuning stability is unique to the Messer Chups, but they were the first to make me realize it. They tend to rip through sets with nary a break to chat to the audience (or tune).

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Last edited: Jul 12, 2024 13:30:38

For me it’s well stretched strings, and setting up the intonation at the bridge with each(or some…lol) string change.

I rarely have to tune my Strat, or Jag (Mustang bridge). The strat whammy gets a workout, and both bridges are floating. I suspect my left hand compensates with pressure and bending too.

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Well, first of all, Oleg is a guitar god and can do things us regular mortals just can't explain.

But in my opinion, the secret is that the Mastery bridge does not rock. I know some will swear to you that a properly set up JM/Jag bridge is perfectly fine and functional, but how many of us can actually achieve that?

I can only tell you I've had much better luck with tuning and intonation stability since I blocked off the rocking motion on my bridge with tape. I also LOWERED the break angle by reducing the shim I was using and I lubed the saddles on my Mustang style bridge, as well as the nut and string tree.

I just don't think it's a very good design overall.

But also, I'm still pretty new to offsets.

Last edited: Jul 12, 2024 12:58:30

AgentClaret wrote:

Well, first of all, Oleg is a guitar VAMPIRE

ftfy Wink

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This guy is crazy (in a good funny way) and doesn’t go into detail of how to set it up other than saying to follow Leo’s instructions but he does show that a properly set up guitar with the stock bridge is capable of staying in tune even with drastic abuse of the trem arm. He gives a link to Leo’s instructions in the notes but it’s a very long read and fairly technical for the average Joe like me.

I just acquired my first offset (70’s Squier Jag) so I’m still messing around with the set up. Does anyone know if the mustang bridge that comes with it is 9.5 or 7.5 radius? The neck is 9.5 but it sure looks like the bridge is 7.5 because the high and low E strings are really low. If I raise them to proper height then the middle strings are too high.

https://youtu.be/zz7GeXUaH5g?si=JevcV4YYAAk4EykF

As far as tuning stability is concerned I find that less than one wrap around the tuning post with the tail of the string locked under that wrap helps greatly. Multiple wraps or the wound strings can cause binding and if you are using the trem’ arm.

AgentClaret wrote:

Well, first of all, Oleg is a guitar god and can do things us regular mortals just can't explain.

But in my opinion, the secret is that the Mastery bridge does not rock. I know some will swear to you that a properly set up JM/Jag bridge is perfectly fine and functional, but how many of us can actually achieve that?

I can only tell you I've had much better luck with tuning and intonation stability since I blocked off the rocking motion on my bridge with tape. I also LOWERED the break angle by reducing the shim I was using and I lubed the saddles on my Mustang style bridge, as well as the nut and string tree.

I just don't think it's a very good design overall.

But also, I'm still pretty new to offsets.

I use the nylon bushings to limit how much the bridge rocks. I have StayTrem bridges on my Bass VI and my Warmoth Jaguar and the OEM bridge on my Squier CV Jaguar. No complaints about any of these.

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BB_Bunny wrote:

I've been steadily working on getting my Jaguar more solid in those regards and have gone through the typical suggestions (shimming the neck, raising the bridge, sanding/smoothing the nut slots, lubing the nut slots and string tree) and the intonation is pretty good, but I can't imagine making my way through an entire set of surf tunes without having to at least touch up the tuning part way through.

Provided your bridge and trem unit are functioning properly, free of burrs, properly affixed to the body, and your strings are fully seated against their stops, that end of the guitar has little to do with tuning stability.

Tuning stability is all at the other end - the nut and the tuners, plus how the strings are put on and broken in (stretched). Cheap guitars come with cheap tuners on them, which is why a lot of folks who buy them struggle with tuning stability. So let's just say for sake of argument you've got top-of-the-line tuners on your guitar and it still won't stay in tune.

You have to find a sweet spot with how many times the string is wound around the tuner post: Too few windings and the string could slip. Too many and aggressive trem use could cause the string to slip and bind in the wrong place (somebody mentioned this above). This is one reason I like locking tuners - you never have to worry about how many windings go around that tuner post. Pass it through, lock it down, trim it and go.

Once you find that sweet spot (and it may vary between guitars with different types of trems), you've got to get your strings properly settled. What we call "stretching" the strings is in fact partly literally stretching them (working out any possible slack in manufacturing or materials), but it's also fully seating the ball ends against the stops AND it's also tightening down the wraps on the tuner post. (That's why, if you have too many, when you use the trem, they can loosen just a little and then bind without going back to exactly where they were, thus affecting the tuning.)

If you've got great tuners and your string installation & stretching technique is dead on perfect, you can STILL have tuning issues if your nut isn't properly cut. If the slots are the tiniest bit too narrow, your strings can bind when you bend or use the trem and boom, you're out of tune. If the angles of the slots is the tiniest bit off, that can be a problem too. A lot of folks use various lubricants, from the simple and practically free (graphite from a pencil) to complex chemical compounds that will cost you varying amounts (the only one I know of is called "Nut Sauce"). I use a little pencil graphite from time to time, but not regularly and not on all my guitars. Nearly every guitar I've got has had its nut either tweaked by a tech or outright replaced, mostly because I use heavier strings than come on most guitars. (Yes the difference between a set of 9s and a set of 10s is enough to cause a problem!) IMO plastic nuts SUCK and if your guitar has one, sooner or later it will have tuning problems. A nice polished bone nut will serve you well for a long, long time. Sometimes just replacing a crappy plastic nut will do wonders for not just the tuning stability, but the overall playability of your guitar as well.

Shimming your neck or raising your bridge will do nothing for tuning stability. (They do, however, affect playability.) Raising your bridge can affect your intonation, not just because it changes the distance between the saddles and the nut slightly, but because the higher your action, the harder you have to press down and that definitely affects your intonation. It might be fine in some places and off a little in others. I play really hard, so when people who play with a light touch play my guitars, they often sound just the slightest bit out of intonation as a result. Yeah, it sounds like a crazy thing but I've seen it enough times to know it matters. The opposite is true as well - I have a friend who plays 8s and with a light touch. When I play his guitars (carefully) I often sound like I'm playing out of tune simply because I'm used to playing harder and on bigger strings.

That got a little long and maybe sounds a little ranty, but I've been playing in bands for 40 years and tuning stability on stage and in the studio is absolutely critical. I've used (and continue to use) everything from double locking Floyd Rose systems to plain jane hard tails, but I never hesitate to tune up between songs, and sometimes when it looks like I'm tuning, all I end up doing is verifying for brain the guitar is still in tune - there are a lot of reasons on a stage in a live show why your guitar might sound a little funky tuning-wise. I've mostly played in two-guitar bands, and in that environment, if either guitar is out of tune a little, the band can sound like crap.

Both of my Jazzmasters have different bridges on them and stock (vintage-style) tuners. They stay in tune quite well because I take care when putting on new strings and have had my tech tweak their nuts for my chosen string gauges. I use the trems, but I don't lubricate either guitar's nut.

In a one-guitar band like Messer Chups, the guitar can be a little out of tune and it won't sound terrible. Obviously that dude's guitars are well set up and he's not just slapping a new set of strings on and running on stage. His ears might not be as sensitive to tuning as others, too - there's 100 reasons why he might only need to tweak his tuning once in a set. Plus you only saw one set. Could be the night before his strings were newer and he had to tune up after every third song. The data point of one set is tough to judge by.

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Last edited: Jul 14, 2024 15:30:29

Wow! Thanks for taking the time to write that extremely in-depth and information-rich post. It doesn't come across as ranty, and I'm always glad to hear from wise industry veterans. There's an absolute ton of good stuff here!

After changing strings, I tend to go through a process of just yanking on them, tuning up, yanking, tuning, etc, until I can yank on them and they no longer go out of tune. I haven't worked with locking tuners, but I'd be willing to check them out. I have vintage style Kluson tuners that came stock with my Vintera Jaguar (MIM, but the thing cost me like $1200+...the tuners had better be at least reasonably good). The build quality is pretty solid on them, feeling much better than the lower quality tuners that came stock with my Squier baritone cabronita which I had to replace. For that, I ended up getting American Vintage Kluson-style tuners from Fender they seem indistinguishable from the stock Vintera tuners to my non-guitar-tech eye and touch. Strings are wrapped 3 times. I'd be willing to give locking tuners a go, though I'll admit I do like the vintage style split post tuners.

As you pointed out, the nut may be the biggest culprit here. I have various gauges of files that I've collected from StewMac and try to make sure my nuts are filed appropriately, however I am not a tech. Since starting this post, I've taken some finer sandpaper to the nut slots and gently worked through it, then lubed both the nut and the string trees with burts bees wax. This seems to have helped quite a bit with stability and I was able to play for most of the day yesterday and today without having to adjust tuning very much. That said, the nut is supposedly 'synthetic bone', so getting a new one of actual bone or tusk made by a good tech may be in the cards for the future. It's something I'll have to do for my Bass VI anyway (which has a VERY crappy plastic nut), so maybe I'll bring them both in at the same time.

Shimming your neck or raising your bridge will do nothing for tuning stability.

I was under the impression that with rocking-style bridges, shimming the neck/raising the bridge does affect tuning stability since the increased break angle/downward pressure of the strings on the bridge will ensure that it rocks as intended. This would not only prevent the string from sliding over the bridge (and potentially not returning to the same contact point) but also helps ensures that the bridge returns to the same neutral position. This is opposite from fixed bridges where it would likely be advantageous to keep the break angle lower, and saddles lubed. I'm not saying this is at all accurate...just what I had gathered from reading stuff strangers write on the internet. I'm very happy to be corrected if I have that wrong.

You definitely have a point with Oleg being the only guitar in the band. I'd imagine that affords him a bit more wiggle room (tremolo pun not intended). However, my sample size is bigger than 1 set. The last show was my 4th time seeing the Messer Chups live and out of those 4 sets, I've only seen him tune a single string once. In a scientific context, I'd still need more data before drawing any conclusions, but given how the guitar sounded solidly in tune with itself all 4 times I've seen them, and given how tuning discrepancies would be readily apparent with his clean tone/triad-heavy playing style, it was enough to make me feel like perhaps something about my setup could be addressed.

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Last edited: Jul 14, 2024 18:03:17

Hey Bunny - thanks for the additional details! Glad I didn't come across as ranting ... I know how I get sometimes so I try to be chill Smile

After I posted my lengthy note yesterday, I realized I might be using words differently than some folks, so humor me for a second and let me tell you what I mean. "Tuning stability" to me means the instrument's capacity to stay in tune once it's put in tune. That's it, nothing more. "Intonation" to me means our perception of the instrument being in tune as we play it, any fretted note anywhere on the neck, in any combination. That definitely is affected by neck shims, bridge height, etc. I might not be in the majority on these definitions, but that's where I'm coming from. From my perspective, a guitar either stays in tune or it doesn't, and we determine that by the open string notes. Everything else is intonation.

The tuners on your MIM are decent. I haven't owned that many MIM Fenders, but I can say about the ones I have owned, I never thought about replacing the tuners. IMO vintage style tuners might be a little better when it comes to tuning stability, because when the string is properly installed, they give a hard stop (the bend) against which the string will pull. With "regular" tuners (a hole in the post parallel to the head), this is why some people use the "luthier's knot" when they put strings on - to create a similar hard stop. It's my position that if you install the string properly and give it the right amount of wraps on the post, you don't need that "knot.")

FWIW I haven't converted any of my vintage-tuner-style guitars to locking tuners. I think Kluson makes some that look right and don't require additional drilling, but so far - even with my Jazzmasters - I've had no problems with the tuners.

I think paying attention to your nut as you have is a big step towards tuning stability. "Synthetic bone" is plastic, plain and simple. It's not bone. Bone is bone! "Synthetic bone" is the manufacturer's code for "hard plastic." I also have a Bass VI and had my tech put a real bone nut on it - made a HUGE difference not just in tuning stability but in playability and tone as well. (Granted, I made a LOT of changes to the guitar, so the cumulative improvement in its tone might only be a small percentage due to the nut.) I did a YouTube series on my Bass VI (youtube.com/chiba131) if you're interested.

In my experience, nut work takes a lot of practice. It's right up there with fret work on my return-on-time-investment chart, and I find it frustrating to say the least. If I can't solve a nut problem with a little fine sandpaper in about five minutes, the guitar goes to my tech. I know the longer I work on it, the more frustrated I'll get and the more likely I am to overcompensate and cause more problems. Give me a complicated wiring scheme and a soldering iron over nut/fret work any day!

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Your use of terms is 100% accurate! I was misleading with my use of the term "intonation" in the subject line (and probably elsewhere in my posts). This thread is supposed to be about tuning stability, especially with heavy use of tremolo.
My guitar already feels much better, but I think the next step will be getting a bone nut made. Unfortunately where I live, I'm guessing it will cost ~$75+ for quality work.

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Hey just a public service announcement that there's this cheap little thing that really works to stretch all new strings out evenly. It's called the String Stretcha and it was invented by a metal guitar tech dude. I tried to find his own video where he explains his invention, but that seems to have been buried in time. Instead here's this one.

I think my (slight) tuning instability comes from the nuts, because I am loath to put bone on my guitar. I just think it's gross. I would love for there to be an alternative material. One of my guitars has a corian nut and it kind of sucks. I'm really kind of torn up about it, but I am about ready to try bone. I don't want to use metal.

Daniel Deathtide

Is tusk or mammoth ivory out of the question? Is it an animal product/vegan thing? I know that "TUSQ" is essentially just a hard plastic, but I've heard unverified internet randos sing the praises of graphite too.

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