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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Do I have a problem? (string spacing)

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Boomerang wrote:

Surfadelphia wrote:

I did the bushings on my 70's CV Jag. They work great. Much better than using electrical tape around the bridge posts. Stabilizes the bridge while still allowing it rock just enough.

That’s exactly what I want. I don’t want to completely block off the movement since Leo designed it to move. I use the trem very subtly so not much movement is needed. I think these will work well. Did you have to shim your neck? My bridge isn’t sitting all the way down but I was thinking maybe a .25 shim would help. What do you think?

That’s exactly what it does. The bridge still rocks, but only slightly. Like yourself, I’m not doing dive bomb moves, but use the trem’ sparingly, and it rocks enough to handle anything I will expect of it.

The artist formerly known as: Synchro

When Surf Guitar is outlawed only outlaws will play Surf Guitar.

synchro wrote:

Boomerang wrote:

Surfadelphia wrote:

I did the bushings on my 70's CV Jag. They work great. Much better than using electrical tape around the bridge posts. Stabilizes the bridge while still allowing it rock just enough.

That’s exactly what I want. I don’t want to completely block off the movement since Leo designed it to move. I use the trem very subtly so not much movement is needed. I think these will work well. Did you have to shim your neck? My bridge isn’t sitting all the way down but I was thinking maybe a .25 shim would help. What do you think?

That’s exactly what it does. The bridge still rocks, but only slightly. Like yourself, I’m not doing dive bomb moves, but use the trem’ sparingly, and it rocks enough to handle anything I will expect of it.

No need to shim the neck on mine. The string break angle was fine. The strings even clear the tremolo screws (not by much, but they clear). I would assume the neck pocket was properly angled from the factory.

Surfadelphia wrote:

synchro wrote:

Boomerang wrote:

Surfadelphia wrote:

I did the bushings on my 70's CV Jag. They work great. Much better than using electrical tape around the bridge posts. Stabilizes the bridge while still allowing it rock just enough.

That’s exactly what I want. I don’t want to completely block off the movement since Leo designed it to move. I use the trem very subtly so not much movement is needed. I think these will work well. Did you have to shim your neck? My bridge isn’t sitting all the way down but I was thinking maybe a .25 shim would help. What do you think?

That’s exactly what it does. The bridge still rocks, but only slightly. Like yourself, I’m not doing dive bomb moves, but use the trem’ sparingly, and it rocks enough to handle anything I will expect of it.

No need to shim the neck on mine. The string break angle was fine. The strings even clear the tremolo screws (not by much, but they clear). I would assume the neck pocket was properly angled from the factory.

They seem to have addressed a lot of Jaguar issues in the Squier. Less emphasis on being accurate to vintage specs, and more emphasis on building a guitar that plays well and won’t have a lot of warranty claims.

The artist formerly known as: Synchro

When Surf Guitar is outlawed only outlaws will play Surf Guitar.

synchro wrote:

Surfadelphia wrote:

synchro wrote:

Boomerang wrote:

Surfadelphia wrote:

I did the bushings on my 70's CV Jag. They work great. Much better than using electrical tape around the bridge posts. Stabilizes the bridge while still allowing it rock just enough.

That’s exactly what I want. I don’t want to completely block off the movement since Leo designed it to move. I use the trem very subtly so not much movement is needed. I think these will work well. Did you have to shim your neck? My bridge isn’t sitting all the way down but I was thinking maybe a .25 shim would help. What do you think?

That’s exactly what it does. The bridge still rocks, but only slightly. Like yourself, I’m not doing dive bomb moves, but use the trem’ sparingly, and it rocks enough to handle anything I will expect of it.

No need to shim the neck on mine. The string break angle was fine. The strings even clear the tremolo screws (not by much, but they clear). I would assume the neck pocket was properly angled from the factory.

They seem to have addressed a lot of Jaguar issues in the Squier. Less emphasis on being accurate to vintage specs, and more emphasis on building a guitar that plays well and won’t have a lot of warranty claims.

Good to know. I was going to order one from Stew Mac but when shipping came up at $13.00 for a $10.00 part that fits in an envelope and weighs less than an ounce I said the heck with it. Glad I cancelled now.

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