killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 12:27 PM
Ok, I picked up one of the Squire Vintage Modified Jaguars recently. I immediately shimmed the neck and then spent a ridiculous amount of time trying to get the bridge and bridge saddles adjusted. I believe I have decided that it would be worth the small investment to pick up a Mustang bridge to replace the stock one with. However, I have noticed that the Mustang bridge is designed for a 7.5 radius fret board, and the VM Jag has a 9.5 radius. Is this going to make a huge difference?
I realize there are some more expensive bridge options that better match the neck radius, but they simply aren't in my budget.
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Surf_Skater
Joined: Sep 06, 2012
Posts: 1300
Lawrenceville , GA
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 12:39 PM
Noah, I grabbed a set of the Tusq saddles on ebay for 29 bucks. Since they have height adjustment screws they will fit any neck radius. They also have a string slot cut in the center like the Mustang bridge saddles. I put them on a couple months ago and set them up without loctite and they haven't gone out of adjustment yet.
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 01:09 PM
I have the Mustang on my VM Jag. The original owner of the guitar installed it. It works just fine and I'm very picky about set up. I don't even notice the difference in radius.
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killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 01:14 PM
Thanks a ton, Hammond. I just pulled the trigger on one from Allparts.
Surf_skater, as nice as those saddles look, I really want to avoid any more setup/adjustment than I must do.
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Surf_Skater
Joined: Sep 06, 2012
Posts: 1300
Lawrenceville , GA
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 02:12 PM
killbabykill34 wrote:
Surf_skater, as nice as those saddles look, I really want to avoid any more setup/adjustment than I must do.
I fully understand. I spent a lot of time fooling with the stock bridge and still had trouble with strings jumping the saddles. I think if I had to get a 3rd bridge I might have sold the guitar.
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horax
Joined: Mar 23, 2011
Posts: 518
colorado springs
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 02:30 PM
pics!!!
I fixed all those issues on mine by ensuring it was perfectly level during setup.
Then placed a small dab of clear nail polish on each saddle screw, switched to flat wound 11's, and never had any issue ever again.
WHY DID I SELL THAT ONE??? WHY?????
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4537
Wisconsin
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 04:15 PM
As Hammond101 indicated, the 'import' Mustang bridge (Allparts, Darren Riley et al) is fine as to the radius; works good on the VMJM too. One thing that is sometimes encountered, especially since you already nicely shimmed the neck & might be raising the bridge, is that you can run out of intonation room when the saddle screw starts impinging the underside of the string from underneath. This is easily solved with a Dremel & cutoff wheel. Just whack a little off the end of the screw to give yourself some more room so that the screw isn't touching the underside of the string. (Personally I'd recommend leaving the screw in the saddle while doing this as a burr might keep you from re-starting it.)
CONGRATS! And what horax said: pics, or it didn't happen. 
Errata: Added pic w/Fender PN for the bridge under discussion.
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
Last edited: Jun 16, 2014 16:30:25
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killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 04:41 PM
Badger wrote:
As Hammond101 indicated, the 'import' Mustang bridge (Allparts, Darren Riley et al) is fine as to the radius; works good on the VMJM too. One thing that is sometimes encountered, especially since you already nicely shimmed the neck & might be raising the bridge, is that you can run out of intonation room when the saddle screw starts impinging the underside of the string from underneath. This is easily solved with a Dremel & cutoff wheel. Just whack a little off the end of the screw to give yourself some more room so that the screw isn't touching the underside of the string. (Personally I'd recommend leaving the screw in the saddle while doing this as a burr might keep you from re-starting it.)
CONGRATS! And what horax said: pics, or it didn't happen.
Errata: Added pic w/Fender PN for the bridge under discussion.
Sorry, I purchased the Mustang Bridge, which doesn't have individual saddle height adjustment screws. So that isn't going to be a problem.
And the screws rattling out wasn't the problem either. The problem was my own patience.
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4537
Wisconsin
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Posted on Jun 16 2014 04:44 PM
OK, cool. The pic is just the one I've used & had good success with. I think they call it an "import" bridge or something but is a drop in for the VM Squier JMs/Jags. (and has individually adjustable saddles)
In that case I will hoist one for your patience in getting through my post. 
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
Last edited: Jun 22, 2014 20:41:48
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 05:21 AM
Hammond101 wrote:
I have the Mustang on my VM Jag. The original owner of the guitar installed it. It works just fine and I'm very picky about set up. I don't even notice the difference in radius.
I bought these cheapo cardboard radius gauges for some job that I can't even remember, it's surprising how handy they've been over the years though. This is a stock MIJ 7.25 radius Mustang bridge and 9.5 radius gauge comparison. My photo isn't perfect I know but I'd say the middle four saddles almost follow the 7.25 radius and the two outer E saddles are a little lower.
Last edited: Jun 17, 2014 05:33:56
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4537
Wisconsin
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 06:49 AM
There's a downloadable PDF with various radii on it. Print on card stock & cut-out with x-acto blade.
Offered here
Tip: Before actually printing, go into your print parameters and insure that you check the box for Actual Size (not "fit oversize pages"). Otherwise the baseline 1" gauge line will come out at 15/16 - don't ask how I know...
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
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killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 07:53 AM
Thank you, guys. I am actually an Engineer and drew up some radius templates in AutoCAD, plotted them, and then transferred them to card stock. If I had the patience, they certainly would be handy...hahaha...
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LeeVanCleef
Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 744
France
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 04:53 PM
KBK -- if you find the difference in radii too noticeable, you could slightly file down the underside of the 4 center saddles.
— Old punks never die... They just become surf rockers.
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 06:38 PM
Remember that about 1/3 of the difference in radius is gone buy the time the strings reach the neck. 1/2 of the difference is gone at the 12th fret and it tapers to zero at the nut (if the slots are filed correctly)
Fender also uses 12" radius TOM style bridges on the CP models and PS Offset Special guitars. I find this more objectionable than the 7 1/2 on a 9.5. I own an Offset Special so I have this experience each time I play it but do not want to file saddle grooves deeper. A tone suck IMO.
I'm not sure that filing the bottoms of the saddles in the Mustang would be good for tone. A nice sharp break line contacting the bridge plate seems to work best for clarity and sustain. If you are good with files a nice sharp line across the bottom of the saddle could be had.
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on Jun 17 2014 06:42 PM
Crumble, I have a set of stainless radius gauges I use for set up. I'll check that out. They can be slipped under the strings and are great for setting up individual saddles. Very interesting.
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SaschaReynders
Joined: Dec 26, 2013
Posts: 251
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Posted on Jun 18 2014 01:12 PM
Badger wrote:
There's a downloadable PDF with various radii on it. Print on card stock & cut-out with x-acto blade.
Offered here
Tip: Before actually printing, go into your print parameters and insure that you check the box for Actual Size (not "fit oversize pages"). Otherwise the baseline 1" gauge line will come out at 15/16 - don't ask how I know...
Thanks for the link to that file, I've been looking for something like that for quite a while now ! 
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killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 19 2014 08:08 PM
I just got the new bridge installed. It feels much better. Now, if only I had a 9 volt for my good tuner so that I could get the intonation set...
I am considering wrapping the bridge posts in a bit of electrical tape to minimize the rocking. I believe I remember someone else on here mentioning they did this. My fear is that, if I don't, my heavy playing style and my tendency to rest my hand on the bridge will knock it out of line.
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Last edited: Jun 19, 2014 20:10:09
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Jun 19 2014 11:14 PM
Still dunno why some are having trouble with the bridge.
Instead of electrical tape, use shrink tubing. Or any kinda tubing for that matter..
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killbabykill34
Joined: Apr 03, 2010
Posts: 3201
Jacksonville, AL
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Posted on Jun 20 2014 07:52 AM
I suppose they are having trouble for the same reason people have always had problems with this bridge. I could have gotten the stock bridge set up. But I prefer something with fewer paths of problems. When we are out touring, the time to fix issues isn't really there. So the fewer things that can go wrong, the better...
I might consider the tubing, if I can track some down locally.
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4537
Wisconsin
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Posted on Jun 20 2014 08:16 AM
killbabykill34 wrote:
I might consider the tubing, if I can track some down locally.
Even the Radio Shack up here, shadow of its former self, stocks that as does ACE hardware or equivalent in the electrical section. Lots of uses for that stuff.
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
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