moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 24 2014 09:55 PM
Howdy! Brand new to the forum. I never used to think about surf as "a thing". Grew up in the 60s, loved all that music, but never paid enough attention to categorize it.
Well, over the last few years, my use of reverb (and treble) has steadily grown. You know you've got a problem when...
- The verb on your Princeton is never less than 5.
- On top of that, you use a Boss FRV-1 to get the attack, and more shimmer. Nearly always.
Add in that I was already addicted to tremolo (Leo's vibrato)... All kinds: Harmonic, Bias Mod, and even brute force opto-clicky-thump-thump.
I doubt anyone ever plans to end up this way, but there you have it.
I don't usually care for Boss pedals. The FRV isn't bad, though. And no other pedal I've found comes close to an outboard unit.
I looked at vintage Fender units, needing god knows what kind of work, for $XXX. Looked at current Fender PCB units, for $XX. Almost pulled the trigger on a used one for $X.
But I love building things (Heathkits then, an amp or two now), and love point-to-point construction. Enter the Weber. They had me at "outboard", but then they said "harmonic". All for $X ($465 shipped, no tubes). In a tweed cab!
That's a 15% discount off listed prices. In typical Weber fashion, they're having a sale, but not telling anyone Apparently.
Now I'm sitting out at the end of the driveway, waiting for the mailman.
Never one to do things in order, I'm soliciting opinions on this kit I've already bought. Anyone build one? How's the tone? Gotchas to be aware of?
This is my first Weber kit. How's the component selection? Should I be preparing to source a few NOS bits to slot in place of present day stuff? I'm an amp circuit ... well not noob, but close. Not sure what might most affect tone, and getting it to sound like it's 1965 again.
Cheers.
Last edited: May 24, 2014 22:48:14
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on May 24 2014 10:44 PM
Hi moosie! Welcome to sg101. Glad you're here. There are some exiting topics that address Weber Reverbs. I hope they help.
Weber 5G15 Reverb Kit review
Anybody tried a Weber "Re-vibe"?
weber reverb unit
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
Last edited: May 24, 2014 22:48:15
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FritzCat
Joined: Sep 11, 2007
Posts: 685
Sonoma, CA
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Posted on May 25 2014 12:08 AM
I've been considering a build of one of those revibes for some time, but have been hesitant after hearing they're one of the most difficult builds available. How do you get the discount? I still may do it...
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 25 2014 12:26 AM
I did nothing to get the Weber discount. There was no hint of a sale. I paid full price, but then when I got the email confirmation / receipt, they had applied 15% off, marked simply "sale". I didn't complain 
I ordered May 23. Perhaps it's a Memorial Day thing. Hurry up.
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 25 2014 12:27 AM
I do wish I'd read the threads linked above first. I did order without tubes, but I'd have gone more ala carte and bought some of my own hardware/switches/jacks/pots. Oh well, next time.
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SanchoPansen
Joined: Jan 04, 2011
Posts: 1588
Berlin L-Berg
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Posted on May 26 2014 03:30 AM
Welcome to the forum and good luck with the build. Start gathering some 6K6 tubes and some pans. They all sound different.
— The Hicadoolas
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 26 2014 11:59 AM
Welcome to the forum and good luck with the build. Start gathering some 6K6 tubes and some pans. They all sound different.
Thx. So, another illness with no cure, eh?
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4537
Wisconsin
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Posted on May 26 2014 05:57 PM
moosie wrote:
Thx. So, another illness with no cure, eh?
Welcome and good luck with the build. No cure; just periodic remission.
SG101 reverb wiki link in my sigline. Labour of love still in progress.
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on May 27 2014 01:05 PM
Which revibe are you going to do? (The harmonic vibrato one? or the bias-vary trem one?)
— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
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FritzCat
Joined: Sep 11, 2007
Posts: 685
Sonoma, CA
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Posted on May 27 2014 07:03 PM
HERE's a page I found on modifying the grounding to eliminate hum (I think it's by the guy who designed the unit in the first place, I could be wrong). I have no idea how old this page is, perhaps the current kit has been changed already.
Last edited: May 27, 2014 19:06:29
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 27 2014 07:57 PM
Which revibe are you going to do? (The harmonic vibrato one? or the bias-vary trem one?)
Harmonic. I already have bias and opto trems on various Fender amps. I've got harmonic only on the Catalinbread Pareidolia pedal, which I hope this unit will blow away.
Besides, the harmonic circuit looks more difficult. Should be fun!
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on May 28 2014 05:16 PM
Congrats of buying the kit. I'm sure you are aware Weber sells kits at very attractive prices. They don't always use the best components available.
My advice would be to test everything for value and function prior to assembly. I've seen defective new parts and items mis-labled. Don't get me wrong, Weber is good people. They go a bit heavy on the China parts in their kits however. This is the same advice I would give to anyone building any kit however. It's a lot easier to find a bad component before you install it.
Enjoy! This stuff is addictive!
— Keep it Drippy Brothers and Sisters!
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 28 2014 07:44 PM
I'm sure you are aware Weber sells kits at very attractive prices. They don't always use the best components available.
I am now. I wasn't when I ordered. One way or the other, it'll work out. I could've done things more efficiently had I known.
Testing values on parts... How do I test a capacitor?
Thanks.
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on May 28 2014 10:12 PM
moosie wrote:
Testing values on parts... How do I test a capacitor?
2 tests you cap do on caps
1) measure capacitance - you can test cap values with a capacitance-measuring meter (some digital MMs have this facility - others do not) This is kind of accurate.
2) measures a cap for DC leakage. You have to connect one lead of the cap to a DCV source and then measure the other cap lead for DC. If the cap is working it shouldn't have any DC across it. Beware measuring polarised (electrolytic) caps - you have to have the (higher potential) +DCV source hooked up to the +ve cap lead and measure the DC with your meter from the negative lead to ground, otherwise you will make the cap explode.
— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on May 28 2014 10:49 PM
3rd and probably the most telling test for an electrolytic cap is the ESR test, equivilent series resistance. An ESR meter will set you back $99 plus shipping but one of these belongs on every kit builder's and tech's bench. Check out a google search for "blue ESR Meter Assembled". AnaTek sells them all put together. You can test caps in circuit with one of these babies.
Antique Electronics Supply sells a capacitance meter for a reasonable price that will get you by. About $50 if I remember correctly.
Checking caps for leakage can be tricky as you have to have a fairly high DC voltage supply. I agree with tubeswell but I would not go this far for your purposes. Test electrolytics for ESR and value and check value on the rest and you should be good. A decent DVOM is all you need for resistors.
If you test caps for leakage via the methods tubeswell mentioned, make sure to discharge the caps prior to handling the leads or you are in for a shocking experience!
— Keep it Drippy Brothers and Sisters!
Last edited: May 28, 2014 22:50:15
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 28 2014 11:18 PM
Beware... explode.
So, to do it correctly, I could use, say, a 9v battery, and connect the battery+ to the cap+ (counter-intuitive, that). Cap- to meter, meter to ground. Battery- needs to be grounded, right?
Pretty new to actually understanding this stuff. I do know how to solder, and so far I know how to avoid getting shocked.
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on May 28 2014 11:40 PM
A 9V battery won't even get you close to testing caps with 400-600V ratings. You need a pretty substantial regulated DC power supply with hopefully adjustable output voltage say 0-600 VDC to test this way.
To me a bench leakage test is "tech only" stuff that should not be attempted at home unless you really understand it. The cost of doing it right outways the value for your kit building purposes. A cap meter & DVOM for sure, an ESR meter if you have the budget, then go melt some solder and have fun!
You can test any tone/coupling caps for leakage in circuit with your DVOM once the chassis is built. Much safer.
— Keep it Drippy Brothers and Sisters!
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 28 2014 11:48 PM
Hammond01,
Thanks for the additional info. I just watched a good video about ESR testing old filter caps. Bookmarked.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nat1YYNMW5A
Last edited: May 28, 2014 23:49:28
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moosie
Joined: May 24, 2014
Posts: 10
CT
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Posted on May 28 2014 11:51 PM
A cap meter & DVOM for sure, an ESR meter if you have the budget, then go melt some solder and have fun!
Yup. Our posts crossed. This sounds better to me.
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Hammond101
Joined: Feb 22, 2013
Posts: 342
SoCal USA
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Posted on May 29 2014 12:33 AM
Nice link. I can't tell ya what a cool tool the Blue ESR meter is for all the reasons in the linked video.
I have an old Vox Cambridge Reverb amp that was given to me years ago. It hummed like a bitch. 10 seconds with the ESR meter and the cap can was the culprit. It read like 60 ohms and should have been no more than 3-4. No guess work. It was a single section can of a value no longer available. I took it apart and installed a modern radial lead electrolytic of the correct value inside the old can case.
— Keep it Drippy Brothers and Sisters!
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