DeadRanchHands
Joined: Apr 15, 2008
Posts: 1281
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 01:55 PM
So, I finally installed a Jazzmaster bridge on my Tele. I've been using a Bigsby for a while with a three-saddle bridge with notches cut in the back. That works fine, but I wanted to be able to intonate each string individually, and I'm okay with losing some of the traditional Tele tone.
Drilling holes for the mounting thimbles was a pain, but once set up, this seems to work pretty well. The rocking bridge seems to eliminate the need for lubricant at the bridge, since the strings aren't sliding across it anymore. I had to shim the neck to compensate for the higher bridge, which was pretty easy using layers of electrical tape. It's weird playing with the bridge up higher from the body, but I'm sure I'll get used to it.
The tone is a little different now - I actually like it better. It sounds less TELECASTER and now a bit more surf. I haven't had problems with string slippage, but then the angle is more severe due to the B5 roll bar than on a JM/Jag.
I keep reading how the JM/Jag bridge was Leo's big design failure - but it seems pretty cool to me. Maybe in a few days it will start buzzing like a bee. But I already have some thread lock handy for when that day comes.
— http://www.reverbnation.com/thedeadranchhands
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZEW74mHjQk
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surfinreverb
Joined: Mar 13, 2006
Posts: 108
Flemington, NJ
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 02:04 PM
Years ago I worked in a country band with a guitarist who used a Tele with a Bigsby and a B-bender....he had adapted a Mosrite roller bridge on the guitar and it seemed to keep the Tele twang, at least to my ears. Then again, he was a fantastic player and I do believe 80% of the tone comes from the fingers. Using the B-bender and doing bends above the nut, he was able to reproduce licks that made you think he was playing a steel.
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DeadRanchHands
Joined: Apr 15, 2008
Posts: 1281
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 02:09 PM
surfinreverb
Years ago I worked in a country band with a guitarist who used a Tele with a Bigsby and a B-bender....he had adapted a Mosrite roller bridge on the guitar and it seemed to keep the Tele twang, at least to my ears. Then again, he was a fantastic player and I do believe 80% of the tone comes from the fingers. Using the B-bender and doing bends above the nut, he was able to reproduce licks that made you think he was playing a steel.
I agree that 80% of tone (or at least the fiddly parts of tone, the details) are in the fingers. Unfortunately I'm not a great player - but I make up for it in, er, nerdiness.
— http://www.reverbnation.com/thedeadranchhands
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZEW74mHjQk
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eddiekatcher
Joined: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 2778
Atlanta, GA
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 03:54 PM
Hey, now that you know how much shimming you need, replace the electrical tape with something more solid. The tape will slowly compress and cause the neck to slip around in the neck pocket. try using cut up coke or beer cans. You can cut the aluminum with normal scissors.
The bridge on the Jazzmaster ain't all that bad. It wasn't designed to be used with rubber band strings and will cause frustration under those circumstances. The real vintage bridges in general give less agravation than the AVRI's or MIJ/CIJ's. I think the tooling is worn out causing the tolerances to be much more sloppy than on the guitars we bought in the '60s. Once you get it dialed in lock in the threads with a locking type compound and if necessary, file some grooves in the saddles to keep the lighter strings in place............best reverbs.
ed
— Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I still like big blonde amps?
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DeadRanchHands
Joined: Apr 15, 2008
Posts: 1281
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 04:02 PM
eddiekatcher
Hey, now that you know how much shimming you need, replace the electrical tape with something more solid. The tape will slowly compress and cause the neck to slip around in the neck pocket. try using cut up coke or beer cans. You can cut the aluminum with normal scissors.
The bridge on the Jazzmaster ain't all that bad. It wasn't designed to be used with rubber band strings and will cause frustration under those circumstances. The real vintage bridges in general give less agravation than the AVRI's or MIJ/CIJ's. I think the tooling is worn out causing the tolerances to be much more sloppy than on the guitars we bought in the '60s. Once you get it dialed in lock in the threads with a locking type compound and if necessary, file some grooves in the saddles to keep the lighter strings in place............best reverbs.
ed
Thanks for the advice!
— http://www.reverbnation.com/thedeadranchhands
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZEW74mHjQk
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eddiekatcher
Joined: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 2778
Atlanta, GA
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Posted on Jul 25 2008 04:16 PM
da nada! ed
— Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I still like big blonde amps?
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SURFmole
Joined: Nov 22, 2007
Posts: 901
Portland, OR
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Posted on Jul 29 2008 01:46 PM
UmaFloresta
The tone is a little different now - I actually like it better. It sounds less TELECASTER and now a bit more surf. I haven't had problems with string slippage, but then the angle is more severe due to the B5 roll bar than on a JM/Jag.
That's the reason I refused to go with a JM/Jag bridge on my Bigsby-ized Tele. I think the three saddle bridge is a big part of the Tele tone...probably more than 20% (sorry surfinreverb...that leaves less than 80% for "the fingers  ". If you want your Tele to sound more like a JM/Jag and don't mind fiddling with the bridge it's a cool mod though.
UmaFloresta
I keep reading how the JM/Jag bridge was Leo's big design failure - but it seems pretty cool to me. Maybe in a few days it will start buzzing like a bee. But I already have some thread lock handy for when that day comes.
It might not be a complete failure (many players use it with great success) but due the the fact that it rarely (ever?) works out of the box without some extreme tweaking, loctite, etc, I wouldn't call it a great design. The Trem and bridges on JM/Jags are the single most reason (besides Hendrix) that they were a failure in terms of units sold compared to the Strat and Tele in my opinion.
— www.apollo4.com
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DeadRanchHands
Joined: Apr 15, 2008
Posts: 1281
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Posted on Jul 29 2008 02:12 PM
SURFmole
UmaFloresta
The tone is a little different now - I actually like it better. It sounds less TELECASTER and now a bit more surf. I haven't had problems with string slippage, but then the angle is more severe due to the B5 roll bar than on a JM/Jag.
That's the reason I refused to go with a JM/Jag bridge on my Bigsby-ized Tele. I think the three saddle bridge is a big part of the Tele tone...probably more than 20% (sorry surfinreverb...that leaves less than 80% for "the fingers ". If you want your Tele to sound more like a JM/Jag and don't mind fiddling with the bridge it's a cool mod though.
UmaFloresta
I keep reading how the JM/Jag bridge was Leo's big design failure - but it seems pretty cool to me. Maybe in a few days it will start buzzing like a bee. But I already have some thread lock handy for when that day comes.
It might not be a complete failure (many players use it with great success) but due the the fact that it rarely (ever?) works out of the box without some extreme tweaking, loctite, etc, I wouldn't call it a great design. The Trem and bridges on JM/Jags are the single most reason (besides Hendrix) that they were a failure in terms of units sold compared to the Strat and Tele in my opinion.
The 3-saddle brass bridge is definitely a big part of traditional Tele tone. But, I've had the guitar in question since '98, and it originally came with six saddles. The 3-saddle thing was fine, but I never was married to it.
My JM bridge is still working great, with no buzzing or moving around. Then again, I don't play with a lot of force. Also I think many of the JM bridge issues come about because of the lack of pressure on the bridge due to that shallow string angle behind the bridge, which isn't an issue with the B5. I guess it's like a built-in buzz stop, for better or for worse.
Also, before installing the JM bridge, I had switched to a 1-inch Bigsby spring vs the shorter stock spring. Definitely recommended for a spongier feel and more range/height.
— http://www.reverbnation.com/thedeadranchhands
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZEW74mHjQk
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groucho26
Joined: Jan 23, 2007
Posts: 111
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Posted on Jul 29 2008 09:05 PM
I want to add some info here on a JM bridge replacement option. I have a US RI Jazzmaster made last year, and had some issues with the bridge - strings falling off, buzzing etc. I decided to try a modified Mustang bridge, which is offered by Warmoth. This is a Mustang bridge where the barrel saddles have not only string guides, but each saddle is also adjustable up and down via allen wrench. I have liked this bridge, although it does not get rid of buzzing altogether. It's about $50 and very easy to install. Anyone else try one of these?
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SURFmole
Joined: Nov 22, 2007
Posts: 901
Portland, OR
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Posted on Jul 30 2008 12:35 AM
UmaFloresta
Also, before installing the JM bridge, I had switched to a 1-inch Bigsby spring vs the shorter stock spring. Definitely recommended for a spongier feel and more range/height.
That sounds cool, I might try one! Where do you purchase the Bigsby springs?
— www.apollo4.com
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