dp
Joined: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 3546
mojave desert, california
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Posted on Jun 19 2006 12:18 PM
Well...I tried the BuzzStop, but it wasn't for me. I did not like the effect it had on the tremolo action and "feel". The Buzz stop did seem to limit the tremolo travel...in other words, it seemed to cut back on the amount of trem available. I am only looking for about a half-step of travel, but I'd rather not push the bar all-the-way into the face of the guitar to get there. Without the Buzzstop, the tremolo travel seemed right on.
I did add the Mustang bridge, and so far, I like that. It seems a bit more stable than the stock bridge...and quieter (not rattle-y), too. I realise that the Mustang bridge lacks a little bit of adjustability in the intonation department, but for a heavy-handed player like me, the deeper grooves seem to do the trick.
I don't think the Mustang bridge is a requirement for all players. After changing to fairly heavy .052 strings, and a proper setup, the stock components seemed to function adequately. I am sort of a guitar klutz, though...I think the Mustang bridge will keep my strings seated when I break into Pete Townshend mode...
-dp
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SurfBandBill
Joined: Mar 15, 2006
Posts: 1487
San Francisco
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Posted on Jun 26 2006 08:33 PM
I've done all of the above -- the buzz stop, the mustang bridge, all that jazz (pun intended), and here's what I've found:
Buzzstops rule. I play hard. Like really friggin' hard. I've sent low E's onto the A saddles on occasion, with Buzzstops, I don't.
Mustang bridge... eh, it's cool, but I find that there's a trick that works better, especially if you're moderately adventurous. As we all know, the lure of mustang bridges is that the slots are a litlte deeper and tend to "hug" the string better, whereas Jag/Jazz bridges have the "ridges", which allow for more custom string spacing, if needed. The down side of Mustang bridges, however, is that height adjustment is impossible.
So here's what you can do, fellow cavemen: space your strings as desired, get them set the way you wanted, get everything intoned as close as you can, but before you grab that locktite, grab a hacksaw, and give a little cut on the saddle for your E (and A if you desire), and you'll find that beast will hold no matter what. You don't have to cut too deep, you don't have to make a huge chasm, just enough so that your string is sitting comfortably down in there. It ain't necessarily pretty, or technologically advanced, but dammit, it works.
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bigtikidude
Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 25561
Anaheim(So.Cal.)U.S.A.
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Posted on Jun 26 2006 11:01 PM
grrrr you go get em big guy.
ha ha
sorry had to respond to Bils last post.
Jeff(bigtikidude)
— Jeff(bigtikidude)
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WR
Joined: Feb 27, 2006
Posts: 3832
netherlands
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Posted on Jun 27 2006 03:22 AM
SurfBandBill
So here's what you can do, fellow cavemen: space your strings as desired, get them set the way you wanted, get everything intoned as close as you can, but before you grab that locktite, grab a hacksaw, and give a little cut on the saddle for your E (and A if you desire), and you'll find that beast will hold no matter what. You don't have to cut too deep, you don't have to make a huge chasm, just enough so that your string is sitting comfortably down in there. It ain't necessarily pretty, or technologically advanced, but dammit, it works.
right on bill, that's exactly what I've done to my new jag. I'm sure as hell not gonna spend the 50 euro that a mustang bridge costs here in Europe to solve a problem that can be solved for free. I figure, if I ever need an undamaged bridge (for resal or whatever) I can get one then.
I can't imagine that that they didn't do this in the old days, btw.
And note the dental floss solution to loose saddle screws I described in the shout box. cheap solutions rule, ha!
I think it is pretty (if you do it neatly) and technologically advanced - ever read "Zen and the art of motor maintenance?" Why would it be perfectly acceptable to hand-cut a nut to desired specs, but not to handcut a bridge saddle to desired specs?
WR
— Rules to live by #314:
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