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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Yet another Jaguar bridge question!

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I have as of yet seen anyone bring this point up.

Doing another set up on my VM Jaguar. Went from wrapping the stock bridge with duct tape (muffled the sound, robbed the tone) back to the stock bridge. I did that in an attempt to get rid of wolf tones, buzzing, ringing and intonation problems. Recently worked on the nut a bit and tightened up the vibrato.

My question is this: If the bridge rocks back and forth along with the vibrato arm, what position should it be in when you set the intonation?

Pulled back towards the vibrato or pushed forward towards the neck? There is certainly enough play in the bridge for it to affect intonation.

Thanks for any replies!

image

Last edited: Jan 28, 2019 14:40:55

In the middle, of course.

Also, I can't see how wrapping the bridge posts would muffle the sound, it does nothing to affect the pickup-string relationship, and as far as body resonance I think it could only enhance, since more of the surface is connected. I might be wrong though, so please someone correct me if I am.

The bridge should be in the middle for intonation, because that's where it should be when you are playing.

And you say you wrapped the bridge in duct tape - which part exactly were you wrapping?

I was talking about the bridge posts. The part that goes into the thimbles. And yes, it affected tone greatly. I saw this mod in a different forum as a way to stabilize the bridge so it didn't rock. REALLY muffled tone. Did get rid of the buzzes and wolf tones though.

And yes, I'll set the rest of the guitar up keeping the bridge in the middle. Makes sense! Thanks!

When I put strings on my Jazz Master I move the tremolo arm up and down in an exaggerated movement while tuning. I then tune each string individually using the same process. After each string stays in tune I check intonation. In theory the bridge has found a neutral position that
it will retain and I adjust from there.
There are more variables to setting intonation, but this method has
worked well for me to get a guitar's intonation ruffed in.

Hope this helps
Best Regards
Martin

Last edited: Jan 28, 2019 17:31:03

What do mean by wolf tones? Buzzes and ringing are familiar enough, but my guitars haven't howled as far as I can tell.

edwardsand wrote:

What do mean by wolf tones? Buzzes and ringing are familiar enough, but my guitars haven't howled as far as I can tell.

Never heard 'wolf' tones? And you call yourself a surf guitarist?
Aaa---Ooooooohhhhh!!
Cool
(I'm referring to errant sympathetic harmonics that occur occasionally). If other members can explain them better, please chime in> Or should I say, "Howl In"!

Last edited: Jan 28, 2019 19:06:48

I know Jaguar ghost tones, produced by vibrations in the lengths of string between bridge and the trem tailpiece. Perhaps if there was a sound sample I could hear, I might recognize wolf tones. Or maybe I'm lucky and my guitars have never produced them.

I have 6 Jaguars and had many problems with them all.
Well it looks like you have the right saddles and not the mustang type that kills the tone...so you look ok there.

Taping the bridge posts is a bad idea being the bridge must float to move forward and backward with the whammy bar movement. If you want to do that block the tail piece down from working. The guitar will go out of tune otherwise with the bridge taped like that.

You mentioned buzzing …...If you mean fret buzz your bridge and or saddles are set too low and the strings are touching the frets somewhere (ok it could be the neck is bent ?) but it is more likely that the bridge is set way too low. The Jaguar sounds better with high action and the pickups work better as well with bridge set higher up,.

Ok I noticed your Jaguar has no Whammy lock button on the Whammy plate real Fender Jaguars have a round lock button on there. This looks like a Squire Jaguar made in Indonesia to me (I have a few.) Jaguars usually have tailpieces with Fender logo on there. They just make more noise because the cheap wiring inside and have now shielding like the ones made in USA and Japan - If that's the case change the strings - they put real cheap noisy strings on there and it gets worse as the strings age and sound dead after a while. But these Squire Jaguars just generate more noise period. I never tried replacing wire or shielding any of these yet.

The guitar was designed to have pickups set low for a lower tone and strings set high - so if they are two close together the Jaguar will sqeal and make noise. The pickups are more powerful to pick up lows but do not sound good if too close to strings. The bridge has to be perfectly level to the pickup plate as well. It seems too sqeal the most with the High E, B and G strings when set too close to pickup - those three seem to be the noisy strings. If those three strings are to close or the pickups or the bridge is lower on the side - your talking big time Jaguar growl and it will bite you sound wise. The G string gives me the most problems being the head design has overtones due to the tuner to nut length is just right for that to happen. If I had to guess its the G string usually, its too low to the pickups. The main problem is you have lots of string past the bridge as well that produce overtones on both end of the G string, so if the G string is too close to pickup this problem is just magnified noise wise.

Even though the pickups are more powerful the guitar set up properly has low out put to the amp (Being the strings are so high - or have to be to work right)

The Fender procedure is to Lock the whammy when tuning ( But you don't have one and make short the bridge is level before inotation etc .. . The bridge has to be level all around. Even a little lean anywhere and the Jag will sqeal. If the bridge leans forward or torwad neck it will have more string behind the bridge (bad- squeal city) - If it leans back way from neck - inotation goes out the window.

It could be the strings - Those cheap Indonesian strings are horrible - change them out- some strings ring out more (especially) 10's (slinky type) - Might try 12's being the guitar was originally designed with those in mind or just try another brand. I need to put heavier strings myself so may do that soon. But strings can cause the problem too. Many times its string and improper set up like described above.

Jaguars are troublesome - but have unique sound no other guitar has - if you change anything it kills the sound a lot so your stuck with this design to get that classic sound.

Hope that helps thats all I know - The only other thing may be you might have turned on the rhythm circuit by accident - that kils the lead sound - maybe the switch is up and not down. Once and a while I hit that switch by accident while playing.

Last edited: Jan 28, 2019 23:56:09

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Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 14:32:19

Tqi wrote:

Flatwound 13s!

Very Happy

No joke, it will make everything so much more stable. Making sure nothing gets stuck in the nut, there's no going back!

Good point about the PU height, Sam, the wolf comes out when it's too close.

Mastery bridge solves many of the aforementioned problems, but it may or may not be your style, and is expensive.

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Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 14:32:32

Thanks for all your comments and ideas. Yes, this is a Squier VM Jaguar, made in Indonesia, year 2017.

The strings on it now are D'Addario NYXL 11s. I don't think they are the problem. Although I may go for the 12s.

I removed the tape from the bridge posts and the tone is much better. I also did some work on the nut and that has helped also. I also tightened up the tremolo and now the buzzing is mostly gone. Still have some setup work to do. I'll let you know how it goes.

Last edited: Jan 29, 2019 19:19:00

Jaguar bridges have spawned entire industries. It was an idea that works wonderfully, except when it doesn’t. Smile A few years ago, I was playing a MIJ reissue of a ‘66 Jaguar. It was a great guitar in many ways, but during a gig, that bridge decided to tumble, leaving me with a barely playable guitar. Soon thereafter, I cast it to the Outer Darkness, which is to say, I sold it.

But old obesessions are persistent and I still think about buying another Jaguar. I have to say that the Classic Player is appealing and the non rocking bridge only adds to the appeal.

If I had a Jaguar with the stock bridge, I think that I would investigate metallic sleeves to prevent the bridge from rocking. This might make dive bombing somewhat problematic, but I think that the trade off would be favorable.

The artist formerly known as: Synchro

When Surf Guitar is outlawed only outlaws will play Surf Guitar.

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Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 14:33:07

GuitarMuk wrote:

Thanks for all your comments and ideas. Yes, this is a Squier VM Jaguar, made in Indonesia, year 2017.

The strings on it now are D'Addario NYXL 11s. I don't think they are the problem. Although I may go for the 12s.

I removed the tape from the bridge posts and the tone is much better. I also did some work on the nut and that has helped also. I also tightened up the tremolo and now the buzzing is mostly gone. Still have some setup work to do. I'll let you know how it goes.

You can make the Squire Jaguars work. Just keep fooling around with adjustments to you get the sound and noiseless set up you can find . I wish I could tell you exact adjustments but I can't because every Jaguar I have is different - I have a few Squires and they all need different set ups to sound and play and sound the same etc. I think the Pickups have different windings etc so sound different and the wood etc .. . It could be the magnets in the pickups etc not sure really. I know my Fender USA made Jaguars are heavier and seem deeper in tone etc....

If your strings are ok then it might be that G string thing - pick the strings and if you get the ringing sound touch or mute the G string if the ringing stops a little after that - that's the problem. So that string is too close to the pickups and needs raising up a bit. That should get rid of the harmonic noise there.

I had less trouble with the Indonesian Squire Jazzmasters. Those seem to have less trouble over all. Its got a good tone for a low end guitar like that. But fine tuning the Jaguar works - It takes awhile to get it just right you will see. It took me a year with them to get it working -still not perfect - but way better.

Last edited: Jan 30, 2019 03:57:30

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Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 14:33:16

There are thousands of threads over at OSG discussing those same problems over and over. At the end of it, you find your own setup.

It's a delicate art of balancing, averaging and most importantly - accepting imperfection (and finding the charm in it). Offset guitars aren't for everybody. Uh-Oh

Last edited: Jan 30, 2019 07:27:46

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Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 14:33:25

You need different threads for each different Jaguar model and brand name.

They are not the same each has its own problems.

I was talking about you have to have custom adjustments to achieve the same Classic Fender Jaguar tone on each Squire Jaguar you have. I have several of these Squires and they all need different adjustments to the bridge to achieve a sound similar to a Fender Jaguar. I'm not talking about some custom sound. It's just to get the Classic Jaguar sound. Each Squire Jag for whatever reason requires different adjustments to get it to work.

The only other choice is trade-in or buy a real Fender Jaguar and even then they have their own problems depending on the year made. Every model no matter the make or model needs their own thread.

One thing I know is changing the original bridge design is a total tone killer on any Jaguar - the original sound is all about that bridge and the jack screws have to be in contact with the base as well or that wood tone turns into a thud. A lot of the tone is from that bridge design. Its the best design for Surf instrument's other designs work for other genres not for Surf.

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