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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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bjoish wrote:

Please note this schematic is old and not 100% correct!

The same could be said for me!

In other news, I think the switch wiring was a success. I won’t really be able to tell for sure until my new power supply gets here — the one I have now is insanely noisy. The switch does seem to bypass the effect correctly, I just can’t be sure if I’ve messed anything else up in the process with all the noise...

So as it turns out, the power supply wasn't the root of the noise I was experiencing, and I'm not quite sure what is at the moment. It seems like it is somewhat related to the reverb tank and/or wiring in that section. Here is what I noticed:

  • The buzzing/humming noise gets worse when the tank RCAs are connected right way around (verified by crashing the tank - if I switch the RCA connecitons, the noise gets less, but there is no reverb signal)
  • The noise gets much louder if I touch the reverb tank with my hand

Any ideas of what to take a look at next?

Hi Charlie_dont

Please double check RCA cable and the grounding of the RCA jack.
The wires should be soldered as shown on this picture:

image

Eureka! That did it. Thanks a bunch!

Last thing (I hope). I seem to have pretty much destroyed the isolation pad. Can anyone recommend an acceptable substitute material?

Bad news for me...
The Surfy Bear that I built was working fine despite the soldering I did wasn't the best mankind has seen.

Yesterday I was playing and suddenly something just happened and now it's like there's been a 90% volume drop and the little sound coming is not as it should be. It's like there's no dry guitar signal at all in there... I can turn my Super Reverb Amp to max and the volume is laughably shy and there's horrible hummming and other noises. The switch seems to do what it's supposed to though.

I tried to resolder the worst spots, but nothing changed... This has made me very sad... Here are some pictures if someone can se a problem!

image
image
image
image
image

In the beginning was reverb

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj--qQ5WXp7SWDWcJJOjoow?sub_confirmation=1

Hello Reatavlos_88
I am sorry about the problem.
I suppose you have checked the wiring and the connectors.
Its also a good idea to reflow all the soldering joints!
Possibly this is a board failure.
I think you should contact me at https://www.surfyindustries.com/technical-support
/Björn

bjoish wrote:

Hello Reatavlos_88
I am sorry about the problem.
I suppose you have checked the wiring and the connectors.
Its also a good idea to reflow all the soldering joints!
Possibly this is a board failure.
I think you should contact me at https://www.surfyindustries.com/technical-support
/Björn

Thanks. Björn. I will try and resolder all the connections. I am wondering if it is one of the MOSFETS that has failed for some reason, since sound is coming, very weirdly. I will contact you then, thanks!

In the beginning was reverb

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj--qQ5WXp7SWDWcJJOjoow?sub_confirmation=1

Reatavlos_88, apologies if it's too basic,
but do you have a multimeter to at least check for continuity? It can save a lot of guesswork.
- If you re-solder (as opposed to re-flow), try to insert the wires from the front facing side, that way you can always eyeball the weakest point of a connection - where the wire meets the edge of the hole.
- Be careful to not strip the holes! I did, and paid for it.
- Is the red wire from the switch a bit chewed up?
- Björn is nice.

Ariel wrote:

Reatavlos_88, apologies if it's too basic,
but do you have a multimeter to at least check for continuity? It can save a lot of guesswork.
- If you re-solder (as opposed to re-flow), try to insert the wires from the front facing side, that way you can always eyeball the weakest point of a connection - where the wire meets the edge of the hole.
- Be careful to not strip the holes! I did, and paid for it.
- Is the red wire from the switch a bit chewed up?
- Björn is nice.

Yeah, I do have a multimeter. But I mean, the signal is there. The sound is just f***ed. I am not very good at soldering and electronics so I don't really now what reflowing is. Is it just reheating the joints up and letting them form better tin blobs?
The red wire from the switch is indeed chewed up from the heat. I touched it with the soldering iron by mistake, but I thought it didn't matter. Does it?
Don't think I've stripped the holes, but what can that cause?
Björn is very nice.

In the beginning was reverb

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj--qQ5WXp7SWDWcJJOjoow?sub_confirmation=1

Hey guys, does someone know where I can find the schematic for R8? I have a similar issue here. The reverb worked like a charm for half a year and suddenly I have no dry output signal, only a faint wet signal. Checked for continuity on every output, input and pot connections and everything seems fine. Even reflowed and lastly replaced the wires. No go. I hope a schematic will help to find the culprit...thanks!

Hi Mischa

I am sorry to hear this.
Even though the input is protected, voltage spike on the input can in rare cases damage the jFET transistors on the input.
I think you should contact me at https://www.surfyindustries.com/technical-support
/Björn

Hi Björn, I have sent you a message, thanks!

Reatavlos_88 wrote:

Yeah, I do have a multimeter. But I mean, the signal is there. The sound is just f***ed.

If there's continuity between 2 points (0 resistance), less chance that those points are culpable.
I'm thinking of a scenario when the wire is stripped/broken and hanging by a thread, making a very small connection that still passes tone but very poorly.

I am not very good at soldering and electronics so I don't really now what reflowing is. Is it just reheating the joints up and letting them form better tin blobs?

Exactly. From your pic, the DC GND point looks like it can benefit from it. The blobs should be small round and shiny, and the wire should be firm inside it - no give at all.

The red wire from the switch is indeed chewed up from the heat. I touched it with the soldering iron by mistake, but I thought it didn't matter. Does it?

If it's only the insulation then no, if the wire is fried a little then yes. Replace this one anyway, you're troubleshooting!

Don't think I've stripped the holes, but what can that cause?

It happens if you pull a connected wire when the solder is not hot enough, or dig in it too much with a soldering iron, lifting it from the board. Happens mostly when detaching for re-soldering. The result is an unusable PCB, or one that demands expert work to bridge that point, very bad! Clean the tip before each and every operation, to ensure max heat transfer.

Last edited: Oct 10, 2018 02:26:02

I would build Surfy Bear Reverb and Trem in one Box. Does somebody know what would be the best position. Reverb before Trem or after?

I think most people put the reverb first, then tremolo.

Krabasti wrote:

I would build Surfy Bear Reverb and Trem in one Box. Does somebody know what would be the best position. Reverb before Trem or after?

Both can sound cool. You can use an order switch if you want both options.

I have a Surfy Bear Metal incoming. I have looked for a footswitch schematic (unlike the original, the SB Metal has a dedicated footswitch jack) but have found nothing. Does anyone want to contribute a schematic for a jacked footswitch?

Makai

Hello Makai
The footswitch should be wired as a standard Fender amp footswitch.
A mono guitar connector with a the switch connected between the two wires.

bjoish wrote:

Hello Makai
The footswitch should be wired as a standard Fender amp footswitch.
A mono guitar connector with a the switch connected between the two wires.

Would this wiring diagram look like this?

image

Makai

Hello Makai
Yes that looks perfect to me.

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