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Last edited: Mar 10, 2020 14:35:57

stratdancer wrote:

Delrin96mm wrote:

I'm now following all new posts on this thread with great interest, even though it's going to be a while before I understand properly what everyone's talking about. I borrowed "Electronics for Dummies" from the local library at the weekend, and I'm now learning all about circuits, resistors, capacitors, transistors etc. It's really interesting - I wish I'd got into this kind of stuff years ago.

Keep in mind when you build your SB from a kit, you are basically sticking wires into holes and dabbing then with a pinpoint of solder. It's as easy as paint by numbers. The board comes with all the components built. You just run wires out to your pots from the board. The board is completely labeled as to what wire goes where. Just wanted to be clear.

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

Stratdancer is right, but this is more or less how everyone gets their first introduction into electronics. You start with an old radio you want to turn into a guitar amp. Then someone tells you how easy it is to make an FM transmitter, and before you know it you're building stuff yourself. And there are a lot of resources for building your own guitar pedals. Like this one: http://www.pedalhaven.com/everything-need-build-diy-guitar-pedal/

Thanks for your help Frank, and j_flanders, your explanations and additional links are super helpful! I'm learning something new at SG101 all the time, it's a real pleasure.

Last edited: Jan 15, 2018 11:00:07

If you also want to include the LED (being ON when active and OFF when bypassed) you need a 3PDT (3 Pole Double throw) switch.
The 3 poles (contacts) you want to switch are: input, output and LED. The double throw simply means that those poles can be in two postions/states: connected or disconnected.
With a SPDT you can only switch the output. (not true bypass)
With a 2PDT you can switch both input and output but not the led. (true bypass) or the output and the LED (not true bypass)
With a 3PDT you can switch both input and output and the led. (true bypass)

IMO, this page explains it quite well, and it's where I learned it after reading many other sites and failing to understand how it works.
http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2233
It shows both DPDT and 3PDT versions.

I have drawn it for the Surfy Trem (not Bear) in this post:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28106/?page=6#p401443
Once you understand how it works, you can apply it to any pedal, it's always the same.

Last edited: Jan 15, 2018 14:52:24

Good day fellas, as there is quite some activity today in this thread I would like to let you know this... (about our pedals, SurfyBear and SurfyTrem). We will continue shipping the kits from Europe as usual.

Lorenzo "Surfer Joe" Valdambrini
(www.surfmusic.net)

Those of you who are using their Surfy Bear as part of their pedalboard, any tips for dealing with noise from the pedalboard power supply? I have a Surfy Bear pedal I wanted to put on top of my pedalboard, but I noticed my Voodoo Labs Pedal Power 2+ is giving me some noise when the Surfy Bear is set over it. It seems like the noise is more present when the power supply is next to one side of the Surfy Bear than the other, but I wanted to see if there were any ideas on shielding, etc. I was planning on replacing the clear acrylic panel on the bottom of the Surfy Bear with another panel I could put velcro without ruining the original panel. A couple of thought are to use a sheet metal panel, or a similar acrylic panel with some heavy duty foil or cooper tape for shielding (similar to the standard shielding for a guitar), would either of these work? Any experiences?

Single_Fin wrote:

I have to believe that some sort of metal on the bottom would provide shielding. But, it has to be connected to the grounded chasis. You can get copper tape at a hardware store. It’s sold as slug repellent in the gardening section.

Before you spend any money you could test with a pice of tin foil between the SB and the power supply, making sure it’s making an electrical connection with the chasis.

*all of this assumes you have a metal chasis.

Thanks, I will experiment. The reverb tank has a metal chassis, but the bottom is open/exposed. My idea would be to have the tin foil or metal bottom mechanically connected to the reverb tank's chassis via the screw points; hoping that will work.

Chippertheripper wrote:

My whole fet reverb is in a metal box and it’s still noisy.

My SurfyBear is in a grounded metal box and was very noisy when I first tried it. A different power supply (12V, 2 amp switching) fixed the problem and it is completely quiet now.

Maybe you've already tried different power supplies?

If I'd stop buying old guitars to fix, I might actually learn to play.
Bringing instruments back to life since 2013.

Chippertheripper wrote:

My whole fet reverb is in a metal box and it’s still noisy.
Try turning the gain trim pot down some and see if that helps at all.

Maybe something has gone wrong with the grounding wires. Both Surfy Bear and Trem should be dead quiet in the chain. If you can make some detailed pictures of the inside of you SB we can have a look to see if we can tame it.