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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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BrentD wrote:

I don't have a full chassis around mine, and I think that's contributing to some hum. To test my theory I was thinking of picking up one of the inexpensive sheet metal toolboxes I see used around here. For those of you with these toolboxes, do they effectively shield your PCB?

A metal box will make quite a difference. Any metal box that is, including a toolbox.

Thanks. Will ANY gap/opening in the box at all reduce its effectiveness? If not, I'll just fabricate a cover for the chassis I have. If it has to be totally sealed, I'll see what I can do otherwise.

Neptune Trojans

Okay electronics guys,

I want to put a master power switch on my reverb/trem unit with a pilot light for each board (12V DC LEDs downstream from the PS I reckon.) It's going to have a Meanwell power supply.

I would like to have a way to cut the trem out of the circuit entirely. Would a three position guitar type switch work for this? Position 1 is off, position 2 sends power to both boards, and position 3 powers only the reverb?

Or would the signal wiring need to be modified as well? My electronic design reach exceeds my grasp by a considerable margin so I'm hoping y'all can help me limp through this process.

BrentD wrote:

Thanks. Will ANY gap/opening in the box at all reduce its effectiveness? If not, I'll just fabricate a cover for the chassis I have. If it has to be totally sealed, I'll see what I can do otherwise.

Holes do not affect the working of the chassis, which is a Farraday cage really.

Redfeather wrote:

Okay electronics guys,

I want to put a master power switch on my reverb/trem unit with a pilot light for each board (12V DC LEDs downstream from the PS I reckon.) It's going to have a Meanwell power supply.

I would like to have a way to cut the trem out of the circuit entirely. Would a three position guitar type switch work for this? Position 1 is off, position 2 sends power to both boards, and position 3 powers only the reverb?

Or would the signal wiring need to be modified as well? My electronic design reach exceeds my grasp by a considerable margin so I'm hoping y'all can help me limp through this process.

Hi RedFeather

The normal way to do this is to keep the supply voltage on to both boards and instead use a toggle switch to bypass the signal.

This is usually called "true-bypass".
If you google you will find lots of info about howto wire the circuit!

/Björn

Thanks again, Frank. I didn't think so, but figured I'd ask people with more experience.

Neptune Trojans

Ok, she's done! I have a bit of hum coming from the pan but it's not the board! Everything is shielded and grounded - I found a video on YT where a guy sprays his pan's RCA jacks with Deoxit and it helps a ton. I'm using an old Accutronics tank so I'll try that before I do anything more serious. The front panel took several tries to get right! If anyone is interested I can share build photos, too.

I love this gear. It's great. Thanks to the Surfy Industry folks for putting it together.

image

Neptune Trojans

BrentD wrote:

Ok, she's done! I have a bit of hum coming from the pan but it's not the board! Everything is shielded and grounded - I found a video on YT where a guy sprays his pan's RCA jacks with Deoxit and it helps a ton. I'm using an old Accutronics tank so I'll try that before I do anything more serious. The front panel took several tries to get right! If anyone is interested I can share build photos, too.

I love this gear. It's great. Thanks to the Surfy Industry folks for putting it together.

image

That is beautiful! Absolutely gorgeous. I'd love to see build photos!

Very cool unit indeed! Send me a good photo for the Surfy Industries web site... lorenzo@surfyindustries.com

Lorenzo "Surfer Joe" Valdambrini
(www.surfmusic.net)

Will do! I'll get something with better lighting in the next couple of days.

Also, I need to find an appropriate handle! I built one that looks like a torii, but I thought it might be a little too much. I'm thinking a brown leather one. The cabinet is covered in linen.

Neptune Trojans

Last edited: Apr 17, 2017 10:41:29

BrentD wrote:

Ok, she's done! I have a bit of hum coming from the pan but it's not the board! Everything is shielded and grounded - I found a video on YT where a guy sprays his pan's RCA jacks with Deoxit and it helps a ton. I'm using an old Accutronics tank so I'll try that before I do anything more serious. The front panel took several tries to get right! If anyone is interested I can share build photos, too.

I love this gear. It's great. Thanks to the Surfy Industry folks for putting it together.

image

Wow!

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

This project got me sentimental for my old RI. I drove over an hour each way this afternoon (and took the time off of work) to play the closest RI I could find. It did not follow me home because it did not sound better than the Surfy Bear.

Neptune Trojans

^^^^^^^^^
Big Grin Big Grin

SpaceTimC wrote:

Gilette wrote:

There's no other scenario I can imagine that can explain your problem, apart from reversed polarity of the power supply.

WELL. What I learned is... ya gotta set your multimeter to the proper setting in order to correctly determine polarity. And, yes, once I swapped the wires on the DC jack, I got glorious wet drippy reverb from my fully-functioning Surfy Bear FET Reverb!!!

image

I built the unit into the lid of the toolbox. The pan sits in the lift-out tray, and I now have storage underneath for cables and pedals and stuffs.

image

Thanks to everyone who helped out and exhibited great patience with this idiot.

I installed my Surfy Bear in a similar way with the circuit and controls inside the lid of a steel tool box. I had already lost the tray so I put the pan on the floor with some cork lining and Velcro to secure it.
Recently I tripped on my guitar cord to send a massive jolt to the unit that loosened up the pan's little transformers instantly, making the reverb sound all fuzzy. I switched the old Gibbs pan with another Accutronics that I had thought was no good and I was back in business in a matter of minutes, after flying some Velcro tabs on the flanges.
I'm going to try to resurrect the Gibbs pan by shimming and epoxying the transformers. It has worked before.

Squink Out!

I hear from some there is a HUM with their builds. Has this been worked out (diy build vs using correct power or ?)

^ About the hum: I haven't solved it yet, but it seems to clearly be the pan. It goes away when the mix control is turned down. It's really not bad, I'm just super picky and I've been fighting EMI in my house for a long time (old neighborhood, different eras of wiring, etc.). I use Area pickups to get rid of the hum in my Strat, but without those I might not hear the reverb hum over the pickup hum.

At the place where I played the Fender tank today, my experience is that it's a much quieter building in terms of interference. Even then, I got some hum from the Fender unit with the mixer control turned up.

In short, there's hum but I don't think it's unusual for a 6G15-style unit. Often it's the pan, not the board. And finally, it's really not too bad.

I'm still going to try to tame it, though!

Neptune Trojans

BrentD, that artwork was a ridiculously good idea. We're all muttering to ourselves, "Why didn't I think of that?"

Hopefully you have an old Teisco you can blast through that every once in a while.

I had problems with hum until I got the right power supply. I've discovered you can find boxes of them to search through at the local thrift store, they're only $1 each so getting several to try isn't a wallet-breaker.

OK, lots of pics. I hope I'm not violating any rules here. I'll split this into a few posts so there aren't more than five or six pictures in each.

First, the basics. I built the cab out of 6mm birch plywood I got at Menards for under $5 a sheet. It took a couple of sheets with the front and back panels. There was bracing made with 5/8" poplar dowel, as well. You can see the basic layout in the first couple of photos. I used screws and glue to hold the cab together. It was built to be very lightweight!

In order to get the pan to fit I had to notch out the bracing. I did it with a Dremel sanding drum with no regard to aesthetics as it's all inside the cab.

Here's the inside of the cab:

image

image

Here are the front and rear panels being test-fit. Yes, I know I stuck the rear panel in upside down in this photo. D'oh!

image

image

Here's a test fit of the reverb pan. I ran machine screws through the bracing at the front to hold the pan upright. The pan bracing lines up with the front of the side braces, so I chiseled out the pan bracing to keep the screws flush. The front panels lays against all of this and can be screwed on wherever.

image

Neptune Trojans

Here's how the pan looks from the rear, at least during test-fit.

image

Here's my ugly homemade chassis. I practiced on galvanized steel but did the final one on sheet aluminum. I bent it in a vice by tapping it with a hammer. Ain't pretty but it works. Note: to shield the board I bent another section that basically covers the back, sides, and bottom. It screws onto this one to completely encase the guts.

image

For the panel I was thinking I might edit the Surfy Bear sticker into white and blue and call it "The Wave," but in any case I wasn't sure I wanted to do a one-time use of the sticker. So I bought a piece of Lexan and cut/drilled it to match the chassis. Once I cut the appropriate holes in the sticker it could go under the Lexan and would be shiny and clean, as would a paper replacement later. I also had this brilliant idea to put LEDs on the side and light it up like Hughes & Kettner does. I gave up on the lights because I didn't want to go down the eBay LED rabbit-hole.

Note: The on and off labels are wrong, but I don't care. I wanted the power plug on the end. NBD for me, and I have OCD. I'll fix it if I print my own panel down the road.

image

Here's the linen I used to cover the cabinet. Once the cab was dry, I put wood filler on it and sanded it down. Then I used Mod Podge to decoupage the linen onto the cab. I gave it a light sanding afterwards because the little fuzzies picked up the glue and got hard, making the cab feel like sandpaper. I plan on adding a couple coats of matte Polycrylic, but I'm not in a rush.

image

Here's the cab as-covered.

image

Neptune Trojans

Last edited: Apr 17, 2017 20:53:44

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