Once again tool box sales are rising. I wonder if someone with H.F. is wondering why those boxes are selling? LOL

Ack. Trouble regarding the MOSFET protective insulation.
I feel so foolish, so I hope there is someone who can stop laughing long enough to render some assistance, please.

Looking back, I concluded that I took off the entire adhesive, thus leaving the MOSFETs exposed - I did not know that there should have been a remaining insulating layer of adhesive. That was tossed into the garbage today and it was taken out to the big neighbourhood bin.

So, when I have assembled it into my aluminum enclosure, the circuit grounds-out (reverb effect does not work) when these MOSFETs come in contact with the aluminum box.

Removing the mounting screw from the circuit board and allowing it to be 'free floating' in the air (i.e no contact between the MOSFETs and the aluminum chassis) the circuitry works and the reverb effect functions as intended.

I want the physical contact of the MOSFETs with the enclosure for the heat sink but I need to isolate it so it does not ground-out.
Would I use some copper tape from an electronics supplier? I don't have any and would need to buy some from a store in town. Or is there a better/cheaper solution? I thought about aluminum foil but all I have is duct tape to frame around the aluminum foil in order to stick it to the chassis...and I am not sure if the duct tape is sufficiently heat resistant for the kind of heat that the MOSFETs would generate.

Thank you.

Lorne
The Surf Shakers: https://www.facebook.com/TheSurfShakers
Vancouver BC Canada

Thanks, Ariel.
Just now, I found online product info at an electrical supply store referred to as "Heat Sink Thermal Tape" (product info: HEAT SINK THERMAL TAPE - 3M 8810 - 80MM X 80MM; Get that heat sink stuck on good and strong with 3M's thermal tape. Specifically designed for attaching heat sinks to ICs. Works better and is less messy than thermal glues or pastes because the thickness is even across the area. A perfect match for our range of small heat sinks).
One cuts out the desired shapes from this 8cm sq. sheet - would this work for adhering to each of the 2 MOSFETS?

Lorne
The Surf Shakers: https://www.facebook.com/TheSurfShakers
Vancouver BC Canada

bjoish wrote:

Hi shake_n_stomp

Sorry about the problems.

I can mail you a new piece of isolating thermo tape.
Just mail me your address!

/Björn

UPDATE: YAY!

I just found the bag of garbage that my daughter was supposed to take to the neighbourhood bin was put by the back door late tonight so that she would take it out on the way to school in the morning - thank goodness for her laziness! (it is currently 02:50 local time)
Thank goodness for dry garbage (we compost all organic materials).

The infamous blue tape backing to the heat sink adhesive found, applied, blue backing carefully removed, screwed into the chassis, all together and IT WORKS.

Thank you so much, Björn, but the offer is no longer necessary.

Lorne
The Surf Shakers: https://www.facebook.com/TheSurfShakers
Vancouver BC Canada

Last edited: Dec 05, 2016 04:58:59

The dimensions are reasonably identical to my Fender RI unit. The orientation of the jacks is due to the smaller enclosure. The transport L bracket has not yet been installed because it is a low priority at the moment. The USA Accutronics reverb pan is from the RI unit which now has a Korean Accutronic pan in it.

Lorne
The Surf Shakers: https://www.facebook.com/TheSurfShakers
Vancouver BC Canada

Last edited: Dec 05, 2016 06:40:23

shake_n_stomp wrote:

The dimensions are reasonably identical to my Fender RI unit. The orientation of the jacks is due to the smaller enclosure.

I really like the looks of that (not a toolbox kinda guy). That is very retro to my eye and would go with anything. Nice job!

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

shake_n_stomp wrote:

And this has a hidden element to it that has a northern flavour: the top and bottom mounting rails for the front panel (seen in my previous post, photo #2) are sections of hockey sticks.

Nice. Totally get it. I can stand on my front porch here at night & listen to the crashing at the 1st-class rink at the fairgrounds down the road. This time of year it's constant; one Mom's Big-SUV after another, with Mite's, other youth teams, the HS teams and any other straphangers that drift by. The fairgrounds facilities still have that old-time farm look, but the hockey facility is first-class. When it gets a little colder the old rink (outside doing summer duty to show cattle) will be flooded for free open-air skating. Priorities.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

Last edited: Dec 05, 2016 11:24:40

DreadInBabylon wrote:

While desoldering (for the sake of reinstalling it with a new scheme), at least 7 of the PCB contact rings were disconnected from their respective leads on the circuit. Using a solder sucker and solder tape, I still must have used too much heat / spent too much time with the soldering iron.
Delicate stuff, those CMD boards!
Next time, I must these Molex type links.

Thats too bad
I have not heard about problems with the soldering pads.
Since the holes are thru-plated, it can be difficult to remove wires. It might take a few seconds to melt the soldering in the thru-plated hole.
Did you manage to fix it?

Finished tidying up the front of my all-in-one SurfyBear amp cab. Made a new faceplate to cover all the mounting holes and added some LED illumination for the amp controls. Pretty stoked how it came out.

Bill S._______

^^^^^^
Looks good to me. Does it weight around 10 lbs. ?

Last edited: Dec 06, 2016 21:30:04