Hi, I would like to show you the cabinet I'm building right now. It's a 15" tone ring cab.
I would like to thank Ariel (DreadInBabylon) for the plans and for all his help and advices. His work with his cabinet really inspired me: topic here
I've followed the plans thoroughly, excepting the finger joint (haven't the right tools for that, so I did a butt joint), however the cab looks and feels solid. HEre you have some pics of the process (not finished yet):

Last edited: Mar 16, 2015 15:31:01

Its looking great, xavi! Keep posting pics as you go.

xavi wrote:

Can anybody tell me if it's the correct angle?

The angle looks about right. Are you planning on piggy-backing an amp head? That'll be the true test: If the cab with head comes anywhere close to tipping over, the angle is too steep. That's what happened to one of my builds when I added legs. I had to readjust the legs.

Very exciting! Awesome job so far, Xavi. Nice looking wood you got there, I can almost smell it!

I was inspired, in turn, by the whole forum... Great advice and help was given to me by members here, and especially Bob from BeaverBottoms. So thanks again everyone. Happy to have helped, my infected friend!

Geometrically, the center of weight should be ideally at the middle point between the leg's and corner's ground contact points. At least, to be located it more forward than the leg's end. It does seem to me a bit too tilted in the pic, hard to tell, relating to what I experience as "stable", with a head on. But you should experiment.

BTW, I never use the tilt-back legs, just like the chrome... It sounds so huge I wouldn't want it even more in my face.
As for stage use still, more comprehensive solutions available than pointing a speaker at the ceiling.

I've made a little platform, for better space management, and it provides total acoustic isolation from the floor.

Keep on the good work!

P.S. Great point about using dowels, Da-ron, I wish I'd have done that as well.

Last edited: Mar 17, 2015 12:59:31

Xavi
I have not built a cabinet, but I did mess with all of my tone ring cabs (I have 6).
The one thing that sucks about them is replacing a speaker.
The traditional non-removable grill cloth means you have to do it from the back.
In order to get to the ring-to-speaker studs/screws you need to take out the ring, since you have no way to counter hold the studs/screws.

The ring-to-baffle mounting in Fender cabs is done via studs sticking out from the baffle towards the back, with nuts fastening the ring down.
I have a few replicas where the mounting is different, just wood screws into the baffle.
Both of these are not great ideas in my opinion.
I suggest you use T-Nuts to mount the ring to the baffle, then the screws are easy to fasten the ring when you drive them into the T-Nuts.

Don't get me started on the old Fender cab that had the ring-to-baffle studs spinning in the wood, what a nightmare.

Going back to the grill cloth, it might be beneficial to have it removable.
Like this guy does it perhaps:
http://rawoods.com/?page_id=173

He is correct that it saves a lot of headaches.

Good luck, and please let me know if you still need the part we were talking about.
Ran

The Scimitars

Xavi
I think this might work if the thickness of the wood/length of screw matches.
I was thinking of something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/10-32-deluxe-6-prong-t-nuts-50-pcs--081-1088
But your solution might be better.
Have fun building it!
Ran

The Scimitars

Nice Job Xavi!
It reminds me on the one I made 2 years ago. I made a wooden tone ring and it work fine. Thanks to Danny for providing me the details of how the double panel for the tone placement needed to be constructed.

One thing I found a bit strange on my Surfer amp head is that it doesn't have a cavity at it's bottom side for the speaker cabinets handle. When I first placed the head on the speaker cab, not all 4 feeds from the amp where touching the speaker cab because of the handle. So I cut out rounds of rubber (about 3mm thick) and placed them between the Surfer amps feeds. That way it wasn't resting any more on the handel of the speaker cab. I'm wondering if I'm the only one would had this problem?

The Arousals
Los Venturas
The Hydrosonics (RIP)

thanks guys!
mine too, but it seems that some rubber disks may do the job:

image

Regarding the insulation material, I have been advised that fiberglass used for heat insulation in walls is cancerous, and it desintegrates inside the cab after years. Have anyone used alternative materials?
thanks!

kick_the_reverb wrote:

Xavi
I have not built a cabinet, but I did mess with all of my tone ring cabs (I have 6).
The one thing that sucks about them is replacing a speaker.
The traditional non-removable grill cloth means you have to do it from the back.
In order to get to the ring-to-speaker studs/screws you need to take out the ring, since you have no way to counter hold the studs/screws.

The ring-to-baffle mounting in Fender cabs is done via studs sticking out from the baffle towards the back, with nuts fastening the ring down.
I have a few replicas where the mounting is different, just wood screws into the baffle.
Both of these are not great ideas in my opinion.
I suggest you use T-Nuts to mount the ring to the baffle, then the screws are easy to fasten the ring when you drive them into the T-Nuts.

Don't get me started on the old Fender cab that had the ring-to-baffle studs spinning in the wood, what a nightmare.

Going back to the grill cloth, it might be beneficial to have it removable.
Like this guy does it perhaps:
http://rawoods.com/?page_id=173

He is correct that it saves a lot of headaches.

Good luck, and please let me know if you still need the part we were talking about.
Ran

+10

I've ordered a Tone Ring from Rick and this was a HUGE plus over my standard Tone Ring cab. Another added benefit is that Rick said he'd make an additional grill in another color cloth for about $100. So if you swap up heads/cabs, you can make em match on the fly!

.

Last edited: Apr 03, 2015 06:20:17

eddiekatcher wrote:

Hey Boost,

Go grab some "fender" washers (I know a play on words right?), remove each sphinx glide and add a washer or two between the glide and the tolex to space the cab further away from the head. You might need longer screws but probably not.

"Fender" washers are a generic description for washers that have relatively large outside diameters compared to their inside hole diameter.

ed

Hey Ed,

I had to read it twice to get the wordplay ;)

The 'Fender' washers sounds like a good and easy sollution. What I did was I placed the metal glide on a piece of rubber (from a truck tube) an cut out some washers with a sharp cutter. Put them between the glide and the tolex, and you won't notice the difference because it's black on black rubber. I didn't had to change the screws for longer ones, it still felt very strong.

The Arousals
Los Venturas
The Hydrosonics (RIP)