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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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R4 sounds really really good!

I just had the chance to compare different reverb pans with the board.

What I can say is that the TAD Reverb ist definitely not the same as the MOD Reverb pan with the same model number.
The TAD is a lot better, the MOD is really cavernous and has too much decay (thought it really has a nice reverb tail).

http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang

Do we have a comparison of TAD vs new Accutronics pans? I agree that the MOD has an awfully cavernous sound which is too messy for my purposes – want drip/attack, not so much tail.

Squink Out!

warioblast wrote:

I'd like the reverb unit to let the signal go through even when off, and the lamp only lit when it's on. I don't know how original units behave in that matter.

Hi
I think you normally want the power to be on even when the effect is turn off. Since the unit don't power up instantaneously, its better to keep it on. If you want to switch the effect on/off and indicate the status with a LED, you can do that using 'true-bypass' circuit.

Search for 'true-bypass schematic' or have look at DreadInBabylons suggestion here:
http://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/24295/?page=13#p329453

Remember to add a series resistor (R4 board dont have the LED terminals).

/Björn

True bypass was my first intention since it's the only bypass wiring I'm familiar with. I changed my mind when I read about the volume drop. So maybe I'd be better off building this unit as close to the original as possible. And in the future if need be, add a footswitch or use a loop box.
So from my understanding the switch simply turns the power on and off. So what would you want a DPST for; if I'm correctly thinking that's what Fender is using.

warioblast wrote:

True bypass was my first intention since it's the only bypass wiring I'm familiar with. I changed my mind when I read about the volume drop. So maybe I'd be better off building this unit as close to the original as possible. And in the future if need be, add a footswitch or use a loop box.
So from my understanding the switch simply turns the power on and off. So what would you want a DPST for; if I'm correctly thinking that's what Fender is using.

Yes, you are right. Fender have a foot switch that can mute the reverb signal. You can do the same thing if you like.

Just found something interesting about how they set the decay in the reverb pan:

"I had read in a Gerald Weber book, years ago, where he was talking about how they set the length of decay. I couldn't find it in his books this morning.

It's the damping disk. It's like a flat washer that is strung/threaded on the end of the springs straight mounting wire/rod that is inserted into the cooper/brass tube that sets the decay time.

The bigger the diameter of the disc (and what it's made of) limits/restricts the springs movement ( just like a guitar strings movement) in the tube."

http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang

Can anybody recommend a good power supply? I'd rather not get one of those bulky select-a-voltage wall warts.

www.reverbnation.com/thehighfidelics

Got my kit a few days ago. I'm going the Harbor Freight toolbox route per stratdancer's recommendation. Since this is going to be an xmas gift for our other guitarist, I'd better hurry up and start this "Build a Bear" project. Gotta leave plenty of time for "testing and evaluation" Big Grin

Bill S._______
image

HELLDIVER on Facebook

ebrobston wrote:

Can anybody recommend a good power supply? I'd rather not get one of those bulky select-a-voltage wall warts.

I picked up this one which was recommended a few pages back -

AC121 - 12VDC 1A Regulated Switching Power Supply

Bill S._______
image

HELLDIVER on Facebook

how sound the r4 ? like the r3 ?

remora1 wrote:

Got my kit a few days ago. I'm going the Harbor Freight toolbox route per stratdancer's recommendation. Since this is going to be an xmas gift for our other guitarist, I'd better hurry up and start this "Build a Bear" project. Gotta leave plenty of time for "testing and evaluation" Big Grin

You should let it slip that you're giving him a build a bear. Give him a WTF moment while he wonders why you would give him a teddy bear.

image

Bill S._______
image

HELLDIVER on Facebook

remora1 wrote:

image

Big Grin

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

Just got a MOD 8AB2A1B pan for the Surfy Bear. I wanted a shorter decay but this one has a shorter, but really terrible sounding room tail. Something like a weird echo. Can not recommend it.

http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang

Not quite sure if its also because of the smaller size of the pan... Confused

http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang

remora1 wrote:

I picked up this one which was recommended a few pages back -

AC121 - 12VDC 1A Regulated Switching Power Supply

Yes, this is the type I normally recommend, a small 'switch-mode' power supply with a fixed 12V output.

ludobag wrote:

how sound the r4 ? like the r3 ?

Nothing that affects the sound is changed in R4.
Its smaller and easier to manufacture (SMD + no bias trim).

LaFleur wrote:

Just found something interesting about how they set the decay in the reverb pan:

"I had read in a Gerald Weber book, years ago, where he was talking about how they set the length of decay. I couldn't find it in his books this morning.

It's the damping disk. It's like a flat washer that is strung/threaded on the end of the springs straight mounting wire/rod that is inserted into the cooper/brass tube that sets the decay time.

The bigger the diameter of the disc (and what it's made of) limits/restricts the springs movement ( just like a guitar strings movement) in the tube."

This is interesting.
It is tempting to disassemble one of my pans to find out more... Big Grin

This has been interesting to follow all of this before I build mine. If I have a very successful vacation after Christmas, I should be ready to start in the next 30 days. I'm still evaluating all the possibilities for power supplies, enclosures, bypasses, etc. The phrase: two heads are better than one comes to mind. Smile

I just found out that I played a Belton Accutronics 4AB3C1B in Emilio's Reverb unit in Mexico and I really really liked it. It was drippin wet!

http://www.reverbnation.com/bangmustang
http://www.facebook.com/bangmustang
https://soundcloud.com/bang-mustang

Honey, look what was in the mail today.
image
Just kidding, that was actually a couple of days ago and I've bought another (version 3) kit some months ago. But I gave 2 of the kits to close friends as presents - stay tuned for their results, as they have some crazy ideas as well.

So I finally found the time and gutted the old television/movie cutting device I found on our local TV station's trash a couple of years ago. I do not recall, why I took it with me that day, but today it all made sense. Apart from finding TONS of tubes in it (some of them are even useful for amps) it finally made the perfect housing for the Surfy Bear Fet Reverb. This is what it looked like...nice eyecatcher, but useless.
image

First I needed an additional pan, so I ordered another MOD pan. Yes, I know. Most guys on here don't like the MOD pans and would prefer the TAD pan over the MOD, but I simply don't. I have tested them both. Tbh, I always have a spare MOD pan around, just in case. My favorite pan - so far - was the Accutronics I pulled out of a '76 Bandmaster Reverb TFL 5005D. But it ended up in my RI tank, so the MOD is the best (to my ears) you can order today.
image

What to do with this gutted housing now? Where to place what? So many options.
image

I decided to only use the left side of the panels and maybe the right side will become a nice trem someday.
image
image

Two more issues had to be solved. First, the pan did not fit in the case as expected, so it IS NOT mounted vertically. Maybe I will cut away some of the pans outer casting and build a suspension for a vertical mounting.
image

The second issue was having this solid case on the one hand and a tiny looking power input like on any pedal on the other. So I decided to mount the power adapter on the inside and connect it to a regular outlet. Looks much better, IMO.
image
image

So far I've only tested it on low volume, but the result was impressive. I am very excited to check it out at our next rehearsal. I would like to thank Björn for this outstanding kit and my good friend Sascha for his help with the whole project. You guys (surf)rock!
Some more pics:
image
image

Oh, I do have a question though. As you can see on the last picture, I play Hallmarks/Mosrites and you know how hot those PUs are. How do I operate the gain trimpot? With a regular Phillips head screwdriver? In which direction and how far without causing damage? Thanks in advance. Cheers!

The Hicadoolas

Last edited: Dec 21, 2014 19:09:00

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