I was concerned about the fragility of the 12v power supply line at practices and gigs (its thinner than a 1 Spot line) so I bent a length of 3/4" mending plate to fit around the transformer and screwed it into the side of the cab. The cord was from a long-gone power tool and has great visibility on the floor.

Someone earlier in this thread mentioned doing something similar, so Thanks for the idea, Whomever!

Also, I coiled up and zip tied the excess supply line to the chassis.

crumble wrote:

It's a bit of a Heath Robinson (unsightly)!

Hey, at least it's correctly oriented and not sideways (like mine). Looks fine! Anyway, people will be too busy looking for tubes to notice. tubes!

stratdancer wrote:

Great projects guys. Way better than my slam it together so I can play now effort. Maybe I should consider a new build.

I for one am grateful you pulled it together so quickly and made those videos and thunderous tunes! But being a live surf band I wondered if you'd be thinking of a traditional case for the SBFR. The toolbox is a great idea and a lot of fun but I think there is something about being a surf band complete with the ancient box of cave spirits on stage.

Last edited: Nov 13, 2014 05:51:05

cambeezy wrote:

Also, I coiled up and zip tied the excess supply line to the chassis.

That certainly makes the build more robust!

I was checking out Mel Waldorf's surfy bear fet when this idea came to me. Rather than house it all in one box, I suggest you separate the pan from the circuit board. Now, decide on 2 settings you like e.g. 6-6-6 and 3-3-6. Determine the resistance values of the three pots at those settings and substitute fixed resistors in place of the pots, with a foot switch that toggles between the two. Fit it all in a small stompbox and you have instant drip or mild reverb without having to bend over between or during songs. Run a long RCA cable to a pan located securely by the amp, maybe use velcro right on the cab back?

Clever! Even better with 2 sets of pots for each setting. This could work.

DannySnyder wrote:

a pan located securely by the amp, maybe use velcro right on the cab back?

Eh?

Danny, cool idea …but then I'd have to kick my amp? Ouch! The Fetverb in trad or tool box is soooo kickable

Fantastic jobs people are doing! So much fun seeing the different solutions to the same addiction (more reverb ), from slick classic Tolex to cool junkyard hacking, all styles are present!
I love all the builds! I really applaud those who took the time to build a classic looking cab for it. It's so redundant, and beautiful. I do get it!

Thanks Björn for choosing my design for the stickers, came out lovely! Now at least you have a chance of following the branding of your units around the world.
I can only suggest - whenever builders post pics of their reverbs, please just include the sticker in it, so people will know what to look for when they're jealous.
This project is a revolution in the reverb world, no less. Ipredict it will become the go-to for affordable, real spring action.

Gilette wrote:

I was checking out Mel Waldorf's surfy bear fet when this idea came to me. Rather than house it all in one box, I suggest you separate the pan from the circuit board. Now, decide on 2 settings you like e.g. 6-6-6 and 3-3-6. Determine the resistance values of the three pots at those settings and substitute fixed resistors in place of the pots, with a foot switch that toggles between the two. Fit it all in a small stompbox and you have instant drip or mild reverb without having to bend over between or during songs. Run a long RCA cable to a pan located securely by the amp, maybe use velcro right on the cab back?

Clever! Even better with 2 sets of pots for each setting. This could work.

Or even better-er still: something like this 2-Knob-Job. It allows switching between 2 pots, thus maintaining flexibility. Maybe one fixed resistor and one potentiometer...

I also started with the project in pedal form, and the pan separated. They still are, but rev2 is attached to the pedalboard now.
I decided against having the pan sit on the amp rig (uncombined with the SurfyBear PCB), for a couple of reasons. After experimentation, this is what I learned:

1. The RCA leads to and from the pan, better be -
   A. isolated;
   B. short; I wound never run them across a performance stage, Danny, the things it would pick up! You also wouldn't want to add resistance to the already sensitive and precious reverb signal.
   C. mechanically separated from everything. The way it is inside the classic reverb cabinet is actually the best.

2. The pan:
   A. can be hard mounted, but would more prone to unwanted vibration.
   B. If spring mounted, only deliberate violent kicking would crash it.
   C. Keep electromagnetic fields far form SIDES of pan.

Reverb is an effect and belongs on my pedalboard (since I already have one) with the others. Opens up routing possibilities too. Does make more sense now, nice and consolidated! My latest revision -

Physics dictate that any extra cable has the potential to add extra noise, but Mel's idea still seems better - low level switch circuity. Remember, it still carries your guitar signal! Perhaps someone who has real background in electronics can set me straight. All depends on your individual setup, how, where... experimentation is needed.

Mel, that remote kick thing is genius! It would kill if someone did that on stage! Hilarious!

I once had a vision of implementing a reverb into a football or something; Now, with no tubes, wireless audio and a long DC cable (or a giant 1amp battery?), hmmmm...

Last edited: Nov 13, 2014 16:41:59

Ariel's pictures are really intriguing – he's obviously pretty technically adept if not a 'real electrician'. A description of the signal flow and switching features of the effects array posted above might open new vistas to awesome live sound for us punters. Particularly interested in how the ABY is used. I have a cheapy Rolls passive ABY that is probably good enough for live work (where the rush of performance covers sonic flaws) but which I find annoying at home. I use a Burris 'Chaloopa' loop switcher to move the Surfy Bear in & out of my signal chain.

About the length & quality of the RCA cable to/from the pan: I am running audiophile cables of generous length inside my Craftsman toolbox. I already had them and I feel better about them than the slightly shorter, but flimsier Hosa cables. At what point of length does resistance become notable?

This thread is the most engaging on the SG101 site, because of its 'wiki' character – offerings of creative solutions to the 'problem' of bitchin' real spring reverb. There are precious few things gong on like this here. Is Bjorn tracking mentions of his Surfy Bear on other guitar-related sites, e.g. The Gear Page?

Squink Out!

Last edited: Nov 13, 2014 23:11:00

RCA cables.

I changed the sockets to Switchcraft (no insulation washers needed) made up some shorter cables with 90 degree angle Switchcraft plugs and the Surfy Bear FET Reverb is now pumping reverb reliably at maximum strength.

EDITED.. My problem was a faulty socket on the pan.

Last edited: Dec 27, 2014 06:14:41