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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Dave Wronski Jaguar Switch Plate

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Howdy SG101-ers...I have 5 of my Jaguar blade switch plates available... $20 + $1.50 shipped lower 48, and $25 shipped to the EU. Paypal.

First five PM's will be the lucky ones.

NO SWITCH IS INCLUDED!

Using this switch plate usually requires removal of some wood in the body cavity. If you have a Johnny Marr Jaguar, I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove any wood because it's a larger opening.

Sometimes I grind the switch down to minimize how much wood I have to remove.\

I like to use a Central Lab Tele switch... old style vintage.

thanks,

~dave

image

image

Last edited: Nov 10, 2014 12:42:47

Your PM inbox is full! I'd like to grab two, if possible!

JakeDobner wrote:

Your PM inbox is full! I'd like to grab two, if possible!

Should be ok now

Last edited: Nov 10, 2014 12:21:31

Also, in that photo... is that your Champagne one second from the back? Looks amazing in that light... I suppose it could be the pink/fuchsia/magenta one as well... but I'd guess Champagne just looking awesome under the light.

My Sherwood Green body comes in tonight! Gonna put it together tomorrow. They put too much yellow coat on it, so I'm going to sand that off first...

yes, that's the Champagne one... iphone pic is a little bit hyped!

Too bad you have to start sanding on a new finish. Guitar Mill does fantastic paint jobs that are way better than the bad pics on theit web site.

two plates left

Is that switch 3 or 4 position?
If it's 4, what does the 4th do?

Just curious, I know how it works on the Johnny Marr, but I was wondering if you have a similar set-up?

Paul
Atomic Mosquitos
Bug music for bug people is here!
Killers from Space

skeeter wrote:

Is that switch 3 or 4 position?
If it's 4, what does the 4th do?

Just curious, I know how it works on the Johnny Marr, but I was wondering if you have a similar set-up?

No switch is included! You must have your own switch!

I know, I was just curious if you are using a 3 or 4 way switch?

SlacktoneDave wrote:

skeeter wrote:

Is that switch 3 or 4 position?
If it's 4, what does the 4th do?

Just curious, I know how it works on the Johnny Marr, but I was wondering if you have a similar set-up?

No switch is included! You must have your own switch!

Paul
Atomic Mosquitos
Bug music for bug people is here!
Killers from Space

SlacktoneDave wrote:

Too bad you have to start sanding on a new finish. Guitar Mill does fantastic paint jobs that are way better than the bad pics on theit web site.

I specified 'light yellowing' and turns out I didn't want that! I should have gone Guitar Mill, but the $100 less at MJT just really tickled the frugal side in me! Also, I know I would have splurged on a flake finish if I did Guitar Mill. They are awesome!

double post

Last edited: Nov 10, 2014 12:49:09

SlacktoneDave wrote:

skeeter wrote:

I know, I was just curious if you are using a 3 or 4 way switch?

SlacktoneDave wrote:

skeeter wrote:

Is that switch 3 or 4 position?
If it's 4, what does the 4th do?

Just curious, I know how it works on the Johnny Marr, but I was wondering if you have a similar set-up?

No switch is included! You must have your own switch!

I use a three-way switch. The Neck +Bridge in series {J. Marr's fourth position} gets a little too thick for me. I'm always fighting with my sound getting too thick. J Marr adds another low-cut switch to help control that issue.

Last edited: Nov 10, 2014 12:52:33

Yeah, I recently got a JMarr Jag, that's kinda why I was asking. To my own surprise, I actually use the in-series setting in a few cases. But I switch a lot from lead to rhythm, so I kinda like it on a few of our more aggressive songs when I'm playing strictly rhythm.

Good luck selling the last couple plates!

SlacktoneDave wrote:

I use a three-way switch. The Neck +Bridge in series {J. Marr's fourth position} gets a little too thick for me. I'm always fighting with my sound getting too thick. J Marr adds another low-cut switch to help control that issue.

Paul
Atomic Mosquitos
Bug music for bug people is here!
Killers from Space

skeeter wrote:

Yeah, I recently got a JMarr Jag, that's kinda why I was asking. To my own surprise, I actually use the in-series setting in a few cases. But I switch a lot from lead to rhythm, so I kinda like it on a few of our more aggressive songs when I'm playing strictly rhythm.

Good luck selling the last couple plates!

SlacktoneDave wrote:

I use a three-way switch. The Neck +Bridge in series {J. Marr's fourth position} gets a little too thick for me. I'm always fighting with my sound getting too thick. J Marr adds another low-cut switch to help control that issue.

I really like that second low-cut switch, I might have to try that.

thanks!

~ dave

One switch plate left

What about just creating a stronger low-cut? I know you aren't using a low-cut to begin with, it would prevent you from having to make any modifications to your rhythm plates as you could just use the rhythm circuit on slider.

Having the versatility of both is nice. The reason I've not used this type of low-cut is I have a little secret weapon that is a mid-bass cut box. It basically, as I've been told by the designer, is that it time aligns 160hz, which is the first harmonic of the low "E" string {80hz} so the mud can be controlled and still retain the lower frequencies. It's not just a normal EQ. The design was first a tube circuit in the Kinder Harp King amp that Rod Piazza helped design, and plays through with his harmonica.

I twisted John Kinder's arm to figure out a way to do it in a box.

Last edited: Nov 10, 2014 14:19:42

Any left?

One

I'll buy it.

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