stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2533
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Aug 26 2014 05:35 AM
I chose vertical and hung it off of springs attached to loop screws I mounted through the wall of my toolbox.
Bjourn, I was wondering if I should line the inside of my box with some type of dampening to cut down on any extra sonic vibrations that can cause the springs in the pan to react. I'm thinking that a hard plastic surface can cause extra resonance and prolong the dwell. What are your thoughts?
— The Kahuna Kings
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447
https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases
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Surfgitar
Joined: Mar 16, 2007
Posts: 1342
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
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Posted on Aug 26 2014 08:18 AM
FWIW I lined mine with thin cork shelf liner. Moreso on mine to minimize the impact of the pan against the metal tool box if they collide. I think it helps in my case.
— CUTBACK
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Aug 26 2014 10:16 AM
stratdancer, con permisso - Wouldn't any voltage applied to the springs so much override any physical interference? (excluding mechanical vibration or electromagnetic). Air molecules moving is nothing. Just test (put something heavy on the box or ask someone to hold it) -> if you don't hear a difference, then it doesn't matter.
BTW, your demo is great! Glad you enjoy it so much, same as I. The first time you connect it and hear those giant splashes and heavy drip, it's an adrenalin rush! And then you realize you're only at 5-6 on the dials and there's plenty more.
I'd love to hear how it behaves in a full band context (compared to a tube unit)
Surfgitar , that's a lovely build. I think now in retrospect, that the whole shebang can be held only with foam, away with the springs. From my experimentation, it doesn't really matter, as long as the pan has some float but the chassis stabilized.
I think, it's simpler than we think...
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Aug 26 2014 11:27 AM
stratdancer wrote:
Bjourn, I was wondering if I should line the inside of my box with some type of dampening to cut down on any extra sonic vibrations that can cause the springs in the pan to react. I'm thinking that a hard plastic surface can cause extra resonance and prolong the dwell. What are your thoughts?
I am not sure about if dampening will have much effect. I suppose it depends on a number of things, how loud you play, if the reverb pan is close to the speaker, how much resonances you get thru the floor board...
Interesting idea!
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JObeast
Joined: Jul 24, 2012
Posts: 2762
Finknabad, Squinkistan
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Posted on Aug 26 2014 04:48 PM
Thanks, Bjorn. I think it's a "B" pan. Looks like hanging spring mounts with eyelet screws, & some cork padding will do the trick. Can't wait!
bjoish wrote:
JObeast wrote:
Question:
What is the best way to mount the pan? I recall seeing some pictures of vertical mounting with springs here someplace but was unable to locate them upon last search...
Hi JObeast,
the last character in the Reverb pan type code indicates that the unit is made for horizontal use (B) or vertical use (C). Some people say that the difference between these two version is almost non existing.
Apart from that you can mount it as it suits you best.
— Squink Out!
Last edited: Aug 26, 2014 16:52:46
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 05:53 AM
While investigating the Oru Kayak by Anton Willis, a Coroplast based Kayak designed from an origami inspiration (See youtube) I started thinking of the possibility of creating a 6G15 coroplast cabinet. Coroplast is cheap, extremely strong and comes in many colours so covering isn't needed. Health & safety wise the properties of Coroplast is very good, combusting at around 700 F degrees and guaranteed to extinguish itself within 25 seconds.
With a good technically designed diagram I'm sure a very smart looking cabinet could be achieved, at least I can see it in my mind. I say this with a glint in my eye.. It could have a bit of a Ikea vibe also!
Someone might be missing a house for sale sign post tonight - for testing purposes of course!
Last edited: Oct 13, 2014 17:22:22
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ludobag
Joined: Jun 05, 2010
Posts: 620
at south of
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 10:39 AM
mine is on a cardbox between 2 scraps of foam at the side to avoid moving under the box if i have to move it ,if you have lot of vibration the cure is to suspend it like DD
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JONPAUL
Joined: Apr 29, 2010
Posts: 2468
Venice, CA
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 05:53 PM
Initial reports...Bjorn has been incredible to work with--friendly, responsive, quick, thorough. I received the kit much quicker than I had anticipated, but still got too far behind preparing to hit the road with Threesome to build my ideal housing. I did, however, assemble the kit in record time (it is extremely easy, even for the most novice solderer) to be sure to have it ready for the multitude of foreign visitors for the SG101 Convention. From the very first time I fired it up, it worked perfectly. I didn't have to make any adjustments or alterations whatsoever. It was fully functional, but the housing was literally a small tupperware bowl--hardly sturdy enough for road use.
But, the moment of truth came when we all had a last-minute get together in Huntington Beach where the Germans, Italians and Serbians were to try out some vintage gear John Blair was selling, as well as the Quilter Tone Block and my ghetto-housed Surfy Bear! We had 2 60s Showmans, a re-issue tank, the Tone Block and the Surfy Bear all fired up for A/B comparisons. Everyone looked at my Surfy Bear with a puzzled, scowling gaze until I plugged it in and palm muted, at which point, the look turned to shock and everyone started asking in disbelief what the heck that thing was! Seriously...at one point John Blair himself walked in the room and proclaimed "Man, that thing really is drippy!" Yessss! That, I think, is the ultimate testimony to how close to a tank this thing sounds. It really is remarkable.
My next step is to prepare a proper, road-worthy housing, at which point I'm hoping to photograph, and record audio and video samples of it in action. The main goal in creating a housing is to have the entire thing be as compact as possible. I want to have ammunition against the argument of the housing needing to be as cumbersome as a real outboard unit. Yes, it requires a footprint larger than a compact pedal, but I would argue that the sound is so much better, it is beyond worth it. More to come...
Cheers, Bjorn! The Surfy Bear is amazing!!! Drip, drip, drip...
— Insect Surfers
The Tikiyaki Orchestra
The Scimitars
Lords Of Atlantis
Fiberglass Jungle - Surf Radio
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JObeast
Joined: Jul 24, 2012
Posts: 2762
Finknabad, Squinkistan
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 06:14 PM
Mine is in the mail by now so now I have to worry about powering it. Anyone have a good source for US-style 12v 1A power supplies?
— Squink Out!
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JObeast
Joined: Jul 24, 2012
Posts: 2762
Finknabad, Squinkistan
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 06:15 PM
JObeast wrote:
Mine is in the mail by now so now I have to worry about powering it. Anyone have a good source for US-style 12v 1A power supplies? And how do we track shipping? I didn't get an email.
— Squink Out!
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Surfgitar
Joined: Mar 16, 2007
Posts: 1342
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 07:09 PM
JObeast wrote:
Mine is in the mail by now so now I have to worry about powering it. Anyone have a good source for US-style 12v 1A power supplies?
I bought mine at Radio Shack. Regulated, low-ripple, 12V DC, 1A, with style K tip. $20.
— CUTBACK
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JObeast
Joined: Jul 24, 2012
Posts: 2762
Finknabad, Squinkistan
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 08:45 PM
Bjorn,
Can the FET Reverb be overpowered to 18v safely? I have a Power Brick that has 9 & 18v outputs.
— Squink Out!
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JObeast
Joined: Jul 24, 2012
Posts: 2762
Finknabad, Squinkistan
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Posted on Aug 27 2014 09:35 PM
Question is, how much more power is the advisable limit? 18V is 33 1/3% higher than 12v – is that tolerable?
bjoish wrote:
crumble wrote:
If you don't yet have a power supply what should one be looking to order. With the greatest resect to you, not everyone understands schematic diagrams. In my ignorance I have trashed a couple appliances by using incorrect power adapters.
My experience is that modern 12V DC 1A (or more), switch mode power adapters works very well. These deliver normally a stable, well regulated DC voltage and are not expensive.
This type of adapters are often used for LCD monitors or backup HDs for PCs. Maybe you already got one
I have also some info about power adapters on my website.
— Squink Out!
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ludobag
Joined: Jun 05, 2010
Posts: 620
at south of
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 01:07 AM
JONPAUL wrote:
Initial reports...Bjorn has been incredible to work with--friendly, responsive, quick, thorough. I received the kit much quicker than I had anticipated, but still got too far behind preparing to hit the road with Threesome to build my ideal housing. I did, however, assemble the kit in record time (it is extremely easy, even for the most novice solderer) to be sure to have it ready for the multitude of foreign visitors for the SG101 Convention. From the very first time I fired it up, it worked perfectly. I didn't have to make any adjustments or alterations whatsoever. It was fully functional, but the housing was literally a small tupperware bowl--hardly sturdy enough for road use.
But, the moment of truth came when we all had a last-minute get together in Huntington Beach where the Germans, Italians and Serbians were to try out some vintage gear John Blair was selling, as well as the Quilter Tone Block and my ghetto-housed Surfy Bear! We had 2 60s Showmans, a re-issue tank, the Tone Block and the Surfy Bear all fired up for A/B comparisons. Everyone looked at my Surfy Bear with a puzzled, scowling gaze until I plugged it in and palm muted, at which point, the look turned to shock and everyone started asking in disbelief what the heck that thing was! Seriously...at one point John Blair himself walked in the room and proclaimed "Man, that thing really is drippy!" Yessss! That, I think, is the ultimate testimony to how close to a tank this thing sounds. It really is remarkable.
My next step is to prepare a proper, road-worthy housing, at which point I'm hoping to photograph, and record audio and video samples of it in action. The main goal in creating a housing is to have the entire thing be as compact as possible. I want to have ammunition against the argument of the housing needing to be as cumbersome as a real outboard unit. Yes, it requires a footprint larger than a compact pedal, but I would argue that the sound is so much better, it is beyond worth it. More to come...
Cheers, Bjorn! The Surfy Bear is amazing!!! Drip, drip, drip...
whitch pan did you use ? like i said with the drri pan is cool ,with the tad is whaou ! really better
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stratdancer
Joined: Dec 11, 2013
Posts: 2533
Akron, Ohio
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 05:17 AM
Thanks Dreadin Babylon!
Jon Paul, great review! Since I don't have a traditional tank to compare mine to what you said and the response you got is powerful testimony to what Bjourn has created and I now have. I'm looking forward to playing it in a band situation soon where I can hear it louder in a mix.
Once again Bjourn, amazing!
— The Kahuna Kings
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447
https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases
Last edited: Aug 28, 2014 05:17:24
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 07:31 AM
JONPAUL wrote:
Initial reports...Bjorn has been incredible to work with--friendly, responsive, quick, thorough. I received the kit much quicker than I had anticipated, but still got too far behind preparing to hit the road with Threesome to build my ideal housing. I did, however, assemble the kit in record time (it is extremely easy, even for the most novice solderer) to be sure to have it ready for the multitude of foreign visitors for the SG101 Convention. From the very first time I fired it up, it worked perfectly. I didn't have to make any adjustments or alterations whatsoever. It was fully functional, but the housing was literally a small tupperware bowl--hardly sturdy enough for road use.
But, the moment of truth came when we all had a last-minute get together in Huntington Beach where the Germans, Italians and Serbians were to try out some vintage gear John Blair was selling, as well as the Quilter Tone Block and my ghetto-housed Surfy Bear! We had 2 60s Showmans, a re-issue tank, the Tone Block and the Surfy Bear all fired up for A/B comparisons. Everyone looked at my Surfy Bear with a puzzled, scowling gaze until I plugged it in and palm muted, at which point, the look turned to shock and everyone started asking in disbelief what the heck that thing was! Seriously...at one point John Blair himself walked in the room and proclaimed "Man, that thing really is drippy!" Yessss! That, I think, is the ultimate testimony to how close to a tank this thing sounds. It really is remarkable.
My next step is to prepare a proper, road-worthy housing, at which point I'm hoping to photograph, and record audio and video samples of it in action. The main goal in creating a housing is to have the entire thing be as compact as possible. I want to have ammunition against the argument of the housing needing to be as cumbersome as a real outboard unit. Yes, it requires a footprint larger than a compact pedal, but I would argue that the sound is so much better, it is beyond worth it. More to come...
Cheers, Bjorn! The Surfy Bear is amazing!!! Drip, drip, drip...
Thanks a lot JonPaul, I am very glad that the FET Reverb met your expectations!
Very nice to hear this since I have spent a considerable amount of time on this project. What I earned so far will go into further develop the board, using SMD technology
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 07:39 AM
JObeast wrote:
Question is, how much more power is the advisable limit? 18V is 33 1/3% higher than 12v – is that tolerable?
I do not recommend more than 12V. Since the amp is class-A, the heatsinks become quite hot even with 12V supply voltage. 18V supply voltage would affect the overall gain and cause even more heat.
There is info about 12V adapters on my website.
JObeast, mail me your delivery address!!
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 07:42 AM
Some more of my contraption...
Recycled some scrap i had lying around.
I started with a 3D model, trying to squeeze the pan in minimum material but still have at least 5mm clearance from all sides. Came out quite robust.
The "chassis" for the pan is an Ikea kitchen thingy. Tolex was applied, just because. Ultra humongous vibration absorbing rubber feet. With all the material, it's quite heavy and very stable.
Finally, A worthy place for the SG101 sticker! fits PERFECTLY on a pan, have you ever noticed?
There WILL be LEDs of course, it's not transparent for no reason! (clear perspex on the closed side, blue on the open, brown on top).
Underside:
You have to find a good balance! I use 2 sets on the bottom springs for front and back.
Top mount:
One spring set is enough, pan carefully centered.
Front:
Those ridiculous 'ears' on top will be replaced with some nice handles, when I find.
It just cries for some cheesy front lightning...
Pedal:
The extra holes are for future routing options... There's plenty of extra space in the p-h1590c enclosure. Planning to add a switchable buffer-splitter and a blend FX loop... Graphics will be done as soon as pots are decided on.
I can't record now, but it sounds better than it looks. Just wanted something original, robust and freaky!
Last edited: Aug 28, 2014 07:49:39
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bjoish
Joined: Jul 06, 2010
Posts: 596
Stockholm
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 07:57 AM
Wow, truly unique
Pure freaky sci-fi !!!
Thats the nice thing about building stuff yourself.
You can decide exactly how you want it to look!
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josheboy
Joined: Mar 13, 2009
Posts: 2365
Twin Cities, MN
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Posted on Aug 28 2014 09:46 AM
Oh, the ideas I have for this thing...
I have a tank that I LOVE. But I'd really like to have a backup other than my stupid FRV-1. I think this would be perfect!
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