Are you sure about the 0 difference? Because the price difference is huge! What was your previous pan? Was it a TAD?

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

Last edited: Aug 23, 2011 07:58:30

I was looking at both pans and noticed something that is not consistent with the old gibbs and accutronics pans. If you look at the springs they connect exactly in the same place (right in the middle). On the old Gibbs and Accutronics the springs are intentionally made different lengths and connect at different points. When the signal enters the pan at the input side it travels down the different length springs arriving at different times at the output which has affect on the depth of the reverberation. The tension of the springs also affect the overall reverberation as well hence the different lengths.

Last edited: Aug 24, 2011 21:14:40

TVtheWiredTurtle, did you have a TAD also? How did you do the test between the pans?

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

Ok guys, here's "eddie's primer of the day"

Ah...........the Reverb Pan.

Simple device really. On both ends of the springs is a "transducer." On the input to pan side, the transducer acts like a loud speaker where a signal from the amp is converted to a physical vibration that shakes the spring. On the other end is a transducer that acts like a microphone in that it converts the vibrating spring into a delayed and sustained signal that is relative to how hard the springs are vibrating and how long they ring. This signal is fed back into the amp (or signal chain), remixed with the original signal in progress and this, on the amp's output is perceived as reverb. Hammond Organ Company came up with this idea and originally used the "necklace" system which had three long loops of the same basic spring material hanging like a three loop string of beads. Awesome reverb. The engineer at Hammond related the sound of these light weight springs bouncing around to that of an echo inside a stairwell. Smart cookie.

Studio "plate" reverbs use a thin sheet metal plate to perform the same function as the springs do in our rigs.

The drip everyone loves is most likely related to a delay and then backlash of the input signal that some pans create. Kind of like a physical shock to the springs before they get going.

The best way to test them is to try them and listen. Whatever you like best is the best one for you. Of my reverb units, the early re-issue has the best drip. It's just a matter of personal preference.

ed

Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I still like big blonde amps?

So, did anyone compare a TAD and a MOD pan side by side?

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

Yes of course you can! Just take care to use the same code number, for example 4AB3C1B or 8EB2C1B, etc

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

I made a little experiment yesterday and I thought I'll share the results here with you guys.

I wanted to make an objective (as possible) comparison between my accutronics (current production by belton) and my TAD reverb pan. I recorded some surf guitar (Jazzmaster/Partsmaster with 64 greybottom vintage pickups - I used the neck PU) straight into my computer (Lehle-preamp into Edirol FA66) and reamped this audio file through my 63 Reverb RI (slightly modded) and straight back into the computer again. So what you hear is twice the exactly same guitar signal through the Reverb straight into the computer again. So no playing inconsistencies no guitar amp no microphone.

The Reverb settings were: Dwell - noon; Mix - full; Tone - noon
Tubes: Sylvania 7025, JAN Philips 12AT7WC, RCA black plate 6K6GT
Capacitors changed to Mallory 150 and NOS Erie and Sprague high volt ceramics for C9 and C10 respectively.

Here we go:
TAD Pan
Accutronics Pan

winter_reverb wrote:

sorry to bump an old thread. I've finally got round to installing the TAD pan I bought a while ago, it doesn't seem to work unless the red wire connects to the white socket and the white wire to the red socket, is this usual. The previous belt on pan I was using the colours matched. Hope there isn't something wrong and I'm not damaging it or something

Without seeing it, I can easily imagine that the location of the input connection is different than the previous pan it may have replaced. If there are zero other issues I would just connect them how they work, and mark a label for that particular pan or something on the connecting cord ends - and then play it. If they're purple & chartreuse, one will still be input & the other output. I seem to recall a MOD pan I put in my tank was catty-whompous - but works great.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

HallmarkSweptWinger wrote:

If you do not want to watch the complete video with my senseless long playing: At 6:40min you can see the cables red - white, then white - red
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0n8_kT5Wi4

Thanks for the vid Ralf, based on that and my amp tech's advice I ordered a TAD tank which should be arriving tomorrow (along with a couple of spare NOS 6K6 tubes). Your video will make it easy to install it

Cheers !

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Last edited: Jul 07, 2014 14:02:23