toddr513
Joined: Dec 30, 2013
Posts: 245
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Posted on Jan 31 2014 09:25 PM
So does any1 know how hot tubes should and shouldnt get, got a 73' twin reverb 5881 biased at 60 percent, when i am done playing and i go to put my standby on I can feel the heat coming from the tubes not like egg frying hot but hotter than warm, just want to make sure something isnt wrong and are these fenders made to take the heat from those power tubes, i know the main transformer is right by those 5881's, dont want to burn anything up.....
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LeeVanCleef
Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 744
France
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Posted on Feb 01 2014 06:10 PM
If overheating tubes are a concern, you can improve the situation by using a small fan (computer fans works perfect for this). There are just 2 things to keep in mind:
1. Don't put the fan too close to the amp's electronics to avoid picking up EM noise from the motor
2. Don't direct the airflow right towards the tubes to avoid thermal shock (bad for tubes), create indirect cool air circulation instead.
— Old punks never die... They just become surf rockers.
Last edited: Feb 01, 2014 20:25:35
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Feb 02 2014 02:07 AM
Regarding airflow, would this be a practical setup (for Showman style):
One fan blowing in (opposite side of tubes), another fan (near tubes) blowing out?
What would be ideal?
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Bob_Kennedy
Joined: Feb 27, 2012
Posts: 316
Mesa, AZ.
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Posted on Feb 02 2014 10:43 AM
Also, keep in mind that silverface twins were designed to use 6L6GC tubes. 5881's should be fine, but they are probably running a little hotter than 6L6's would. 5881 are rated for 23w each, 6L6GC are rated for 30w each. Your twin is rated @ 100w. Four 5881's would be rated @ 92w, whereas four 6L6GC's would be 120w. Again, probably not a huge deal, but that could be why they're running hot.
— Otto & The Ottomans
Kennedy Custom Guitars
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Feb 03 2014 02:24 PM
Bob_Kennedy wrote:
Also, keep in mind that silverface twins were designed to use 6L6GC tubes. 5881's should be fine, but they are probably running a little hotter than 6L6's would. 5881 are rated for 23w each, 6L6GC are rated for 30w each. Your twin is rated @ 100w. Four 5881's would be rated @ 92w, whereas four 6L6GC's would be 120w. Again, probably not a huge deal, but that could be why they're running hot.
Those 23w/30w ratings refer to their plate heat dissipation capacity, not their power output. The two aren't technically correlated - e.g. El34s are rated at 25w dissipation but will output more than 6L6s when push with high plate voltages. If an amp is running hotter than "normal" with a particular set of tubes, they may be biased too hot, causing them to exceed their plate dissipation ability. There are other possible reasons too, but it's a good idea to check that out first (are they running at 60% of 23w, or of 30w?).
Last edited: Feb 03, 2014 14:36:38
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Feb 03 2014 02:30 PM
DreadInBabylon wrote:
Regarding airflow, would this be a practical setup (for Showman style):
One fan blowing in (opposite side of tubes), another fan (near tubes) blowing out?
What would be ideal?
Ariel, two fans would be overkill - a high volume of airflow is not required and can actually damage the tubes from thermal shock. One small fan blowing from the far side or far bottom corner should be plenty. You only need to prevent "still" air under the chassis, not actually cool the tubes.
Last edited: Feb 03, 2014 14:32:34
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BJB
Joined: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 413
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Posted on Feb 03 2014 09:24 PM
I use one of those clip-on fans to circulate air in my Twin Reverb. It's more than enough air and the fan noise doesn't come through the amp. Maybe the fan could be picked up by a microphone but I use the fan for practice and live gigs. I'm more concerned with heat-sensitive components like the electrolytics in the amp.
— If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.
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LeeVanCleef
Joined: Oct 05, 2011
Posts: 744
France
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Posted on Feb 03 2014 11:21 PM
mike_fried wrote:
Ariel, two fans would be overkill - a high volume of airflow is not required and can actually damage the tubes from thermal shock. One small fan blowing from the far side or far bottom corner should be plenty. You only need to prevent "still" air under the chassis, not actually cool the tubes.
This.
Also, in a head cab like a Showman, taking off the rear panel may slightly improve matters in a pinch.
— Old punks never die... They just become surf rockers.
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on Feb 04 2014 12:49 AM
Hot is normal for tube amps. As long as the amps not making funny noises or having the plates glowing ruby red, its okay.
— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Feb 04 2014 11:41 AM
Thank you sirs, Got it!
Last edited: Feb 04, 2014 11:44:05
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Badger
Joined: Nov 16, 2013
Posts: 4538
Wisconsin
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Posted on Feb 04 2014 03:37 PM
tubeswell wrote:
Hot is normal for tube amps. As long as the amps not making funny noises or having the plates glowing ruby red, its okay.
+1 If they're glowing they are happy. They are gonna get hot; that's what they do.
— Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel
DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Feb 04 2014 07:57 PM
Hot tubes is not the issue, hot IS what they do...the issue is that heat is the enemy of longevity and reliablilty in electronics - the cooler you run things (especially carbon-based components and lacquer-insulated coil wire), the longer they'll last, that's just EE 101. A small fan enabling circulation around the chassis will keep the heat buildup down and that's always a good thing. I've been an amp tech for about 30 years (and a muso for 45) and I always run a fan behind my tube amps if they're going to be played for more than an hour or so. BTW, this especially applies if you're tilting one back on legs as that causes even more heat buildup in the chassis. I'm not saying you have to do this, it's just good practice...
Last edited: Feb 04, 2014 20:10:42
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eddiekatcher
Joined: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 2779
Atlanta, GA
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 07:14 AM
I've used small boxer fans to cool my piggy back heads (that are really biased on the hot side) for years. I glue a piece of foam rubber to two sides of the fan and wedge it under the cap pan pointed in the direction of the tubes. This really cools them as well as the transformers. The foam keeps the fan from sliding around and helps to acoustically isolate the fan's background noise. Solder an AC pigtail to the fan and plug it in to the Aux outlet when needed.
Modern boxer fans are electrically shielded and have generated no issues with RF in any of my amps including my super high gain modified one, the '68 Dual Showman Reverb chassis that is modified on the front end to the hilt. Standing close to the amp you can hear the fan running but it really isn't an issue. These fans also come in a variety of CFM ratings and it doesn't take much circulation to make a big difference, so consider one with a low CFM rating. It will be more quiet.
I like pushing my tubes to the brink of disaster electronically so the fans help to keep them working. I have very little tube issues.
ed
— Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I still like big blonde amps?
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 01:06 PM
Yeah a little fan behind the amp really keeps the tubes cool. Better still, a large fan on stage at gigs is even better, because it has co-benefits for keeping everyone cool.
— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 01:22 PM
BTW 6L6 or EL34 output tubes idle at about 400 degrees
— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 06:13 PM
tubeswell wrote:
Yeah a little fan behind the amp really keeps the tubes cool. Better still, a large fan on stage at gigs is even better, because it has co-benefits for keeping everyone cool.
While I appreciate sarcasm as much as the next guy, you're still missing the point. No one is suggesting keeping the TUBES cool, the point is to reduce heat buildup in the amp from the hot tubes. There is benefit in that whether or not to choose to acknowledge it.
Last edited: Feb 05, 2014 18:21:44
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tubeswell
Joined: Sep 24, 2011
Posts: 1424
Wellington, NZ
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 06:28 PM
Sarcasm! No I practice what I preach. I've used a fan pointed at my amps to keep the amp cool on several occasions in the past And if the fan is big enough, it also blows a little breeze around the playing area, which is beneficial when there are hot stage lights drawing the sweat out of you.
I know all that stuff about tube heat and I do design my amps so that the output tubes stay 'coolish' (by convection), and part of that is leaving enough space between the big bottles for heat to dissipate as much as possible and part of it is having plenty of ventilation space in the cab. I wasn't intending to be sarcastic at all.
E.g.:
Tube spacing (at least 1 x the tube diameter)

Cab ventilation (about 1/3 of the back of the cab)

These 6L6s are biased at 24W and the amp runs happily for hours.
Another example with about 2 x the tube diameter spacing

— He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Surf Daddies
Last edited: Feb 05, 2014 18:35:25
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mike_fried
Joined: Aug 02, 2012
Posts: 162
Nashville, TN
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Posted on Feb 05 2014 06:32 PM
tubeswell wrote:
Sarcasm! No I practice what I preach. I've used a fan pointed at my amps to keep the amp cool on several occasions in the past And if the fan is big enough, it also blows a little breeze around the playing area, which is beneficial when there are hot stage lights drawing the sweat out of you.
I know all that stuff about tube heat and I do design my amps so that the output tubes stay 'coolish' (by convection), and part of that is leaving enough space between the big bottles for heat to dissipate as much as possible and part of it is having plenty of ventilation space in the cab. I wasn't intending to be sarcastic at all.
My apologies, Tubeswell. I believe we share the same goal here and I'm sorry if I was a bit touchy...
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Tuck
Joined: Sep 02, 2006
Posts: 3166
Denver, CO
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Posted on Feb 07 2014 04:34 PM
If sarcasm is a problem, I'm glad I didn't suggest a FEM simulation of the heat transfer situation with COMSOL Multiphysics ...
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BJB
Joined: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 413
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Posted on Feb 08 2014 02:03 AM
One of the old hi-fi books I read recommended drilling small holes around the power tube sockets so air would circulate better. I've seen these holes in hi-fi amps like Harmon-Kardon, but never in a guitar amp chassis. At least not yet.
It's kind of interesting how the guitar amp builders are so reluctant to adopt methods used by hi-fi amp builders, and visa versa. For example, you'll never see a standby switch on a hi-fi tube amp.
— If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.
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