How deep do you rout a Jag/Jazzmaster vibrato tailpiece?

JObeast Joined: Jul 24, 2012 Posts: 2762 Finknabad, Squinkistan	Posted on Oct 13 2013 01:29 AM Building my next project, a no-name 60's Japanese "S"-type guitar to be fitted with Hallmark Mosrite-copy pups and a Jaguar/Jazzmaster vibrato tailpiece. Still carving away at the body made of something like pressboard, with no grain at all, like cardboard only 1 3/4" thick. Still drilling and carving to accommodate the whammy action, down to 1/2" for the plate and 1 3/8" for the spring. Wondering how much I have to cut away where to make it all work. — Squink Out! Top
duncanjames Joined: Dec 20, 2011 Posts: 156	Posted on Oct 13 2013 03:07 AM 1 3/8" for the whole cavity seems to be the general suggested depth. However, when following that rule I seem to always have issues with the arm bottoming out. In my case I think the arm pushes farther down in the collet than it's supposed to. Still, I'd route it a little bit deeper than 1 3/8" if you've got the option just in case that happens to you. Top
wfoguy Joined: Dec 11, 2011 Posts: 2136	Posted on Oct 13 2013 03:33 PM This might help. http://www.squier-talk.com/forum/tech-talk/4147-jazzmaster-tremolo-mod.html Top
JObeast Joined: Jul 24, 2012 Posts: 2762 Finknabad, Squinkistan	Posted on Oct 13 2013 11:58 PM Thanks Duncan & WFO! The Webrocker diagram shows a big dark cavity under the whole assembly. It has not occurred to me to disassemble my '65 Jag to see how Fender did it – leaving well enough alone. 1 3/4 – 1 3/8 leaves 3/8" of fluffy cardboard stuff before I punch through the back. Seeing as I don't have a router and am using a wood chisel I may be able to take it slow and avoid penetration. And it I screw it up, it's just time and $13 wasted on the body and neck. I did do a real nice tung oil job on the neck, which has virtually new frets and appears straight, so I hope the whole thing works. I'm sure the neck won't fit another body, seeing as it's 60s Japanese no-name stuff. Will post pictures when it's presentable. — Squink Out! Top
duncanjames Joined: Dec 20, 2011 Posts: 156	Posted on Oct 14 2013 01:12 AM The Fender route is all one depth, probably to save on routing steps. But you only really need that much depth for the spring and arm area. It might a good idea to leave a little more material where you can, as I bet that material doesn't hold too strongly. On the other hand, if you don't have a router but you do have a drill, you could always just drill the cavity straight through to the back and cover the back with some sort of plate. Top

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How deep do you rout a Jag/Jazzmaster vibrato tailpiece?