crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 20 2012 05:41 AM
I bought a new Made in Japan Mustang bridge with inserts (cups/thimbles).
It's the thimbles that are the problem. The bottom of the thimble bore is sloped to the middle so when the bridge in dropped in the posts find bullseye dead center. But my thimbles are so poorly machined it is extremely difficult to find center. See photograph and note the ridges. It could be just a bad batch since both pieces are faulty (one is bored 1mm deeper than the other) or it could be that far east quality control has become poor. Just sayin', if you experiencing bridge problems it might be worth checking, bad thimbles could throw alignment on all axis.
MB stainless steel thimbles are on order.
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 23 2012 10:24 PM
Can't you just clean them up? you could do that by hand with a clean drill...
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 24 2012 04:43 AM
Thanks for the comment so1om. Yes i thought about using a drill to smooth out but i wasn't sure about drill cutting angle plus the center area looks like a further recess with a flat bottom. New cups are so cheap it isn't worth a second thought. Both US Fender and the Mastery Bridge replacements look a work of art compared to the Japanese part. I'll also be changing the Japanese bridge post height grub screws from pointed end to plain end (Metric M3 about 16mm length).
Last edited: Oct 24, 2012 05:02:46
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 24 2012 08:50 AM
Well you wouldn't be cutting as much as deburring. even a soft tip Dremel tool bit would help. -that's all debatable since we are not looking at the part together and thinking ideas.
i'm not sure how flat screw would help you. A flat tip in a conical shape would prolly hang up, maybe gouge, maybe the of the flat would wear funny.. hard to say. All the bridge assemblies, bigsby, fender, otherwise rely on a point to center and pivot.
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 24 2012 08:52 AM
In any event.. lots of us have used the standard methods to set up a Jag/Jazz/Stang/Bigs bridge. IMO, the Mastery is overkill, but the burrs in the thimble may be an issue.
good luck and report back the findings!
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 24 2012 01:13 PM
Agreed the Mastery Bridge is way too expensive for my project. I can afford Mastery Bridge stainless steel thimbles ..which are on order and will probably take weeks to arrive  for whatever reason the MB height screws are plain ended. The plain ended type will have more surface area grip but as you say, that could be exactly what i don't need.
Thanks for chiming in!
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 24 2012 08:27 PM
i gotcha. I'm sure it'll work out. next time i get into my VM Jag i will take a look. my tele too.
Good luck. it could be an issue to consider, into the knowledge base!
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 25 2012 06:21 AM
I made some hot candle wax casts from inside the thimbles. I used a smear of olive oil as a release agent.
Left: deep ridge cuts. appears to have a flat tip.
Right: speaks for it self. Also appears to be trying to be a flat tip.
Very poor machine work. no wonder the bridge isn't working correctly.
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eddiekatcher
Joined: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 2778
Atlanta, GA
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Posted on Oct 25 2012 04:16 PM
Take a 1/4" drill bit and wrap it (backwards) with electrical tape until it just fits in the thimble. It will then act like a crude drill bushing. This simple trick will ensure that you hit really close to center when you smack them LIGHTLY with a drill. Drill press prefered for better alignment control but even with a hand drill, the tape will help immensely.
Go very slow. It will not take much.
eddie k
— Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I still like big blonde amps?
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Ariel
Joined: Aug 29, 2009
Posts: 1556
Israel
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Posted on Oct 25 2012 06:06 PM
Eddie, in your experience: you really think just tape wouldn't disintegrate/lose shape way before any significant milling is achieved at the high speeds required for this drilling?
There are metal spacers with a sunk screw that may be better suited for the job.
I would have approached this in only with a carbide bit that is precisely the radius and angle of the cut. Only of course the bit may be more expensive than a new set of thimbles...
Last edited: Oct 25, 2012 18:08:33
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 25 2012 09:57 PM
You're over thinking it. you only need to smooth the bottom and the drill bit would naturally center. If i had to, i'd just do it with a hand drill and be done with it.
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 26 2012 06:50 AM
I'm fitting a Mustang bridge & tail to a Stratocaster body. The problems are:
String height is not quite low enough.
Use of tremolo causes detuning - doesn't return to zero position.
String touches bridge on way to trem - can't be adjusted out.
Problems which i will enjoy dealing with! although i am very grateful for any comments made. I need a solid base to work up from, i can't trust either thimble that i have to be true so i've choosen Mastery Bridge thimbles as reference.
Check my candle wax photos, it might be that the left thimble holds the bridge post steady while the right side is allowed to arc horizontally very slightly.
Last edited: Oct 26, 2012 09:45:10
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 26 2012 09:22 AM
you could be right on about one thimble being fine and the other hanging up causing an imbalance. I would suppose that since they rock, the location of each in the body with respect to the strings has to be reasonably spot on too.
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Oct 26 2012 11:26 AM
I just edited my last comment so it makes sense!
The second thimble picture looks a liitle bowl shaped, perhaps the bridge post is trying to ride up the side?
I spent a long time figuring out a way of drilling the post holes accurately and i've re-checked a few times now, they look good.
To be honest, i'm hoping your grub screw diagram is inaccurate and that it is flat at the bottom of the thimble. from an engineering point of view a few thousandths of an inch side ways play to allow for any inperfections with regards post hole placements would seem logical.
I only have these Japanese thimbles to work with at the moment, when the replacements arrive i'll be able to understand how they work with a little more clarity. I am unable comment on re-drilling with a pointed end drill because i feel that would introduce more of a grub screw grab factor - unwanted friction, although i'm happy to be corrected if i'm wrong.
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stratomatic
Joined: Jan 11, 2012
Posts: 114
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Posted on Oct 26 2012 11:51 AM
I was considering doing the same mod on a hardtail first act. I wonder if mustang owners ever have the same problems.
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Oct 26 2012 12:14 PM
my drawing showing the bottom interior of the thimble is pointed. 120 degrees. metric drills are 90deg, standard are 118degrees. the screws are metric screws to ISO spec -Solidworks, baby!
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Nov 18 2012 05:16 AM
The Mastery Bridge thimbles arrived very quickly. Yes they are drilled to a point inside and a larger outside diameter of 3/8".
The bridge now works impeccably well, no weird vibration problems and it returns to zero position every time.
Below: Mastery left, MIJ right.
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Nov 18 2012 11:40 AM
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