WillyT
Joined: Jan 13, 2007
Posts: 95
Jersey Shore
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Posted on Jul 02 2008 08:14 PM
I wish one of you would make a DVD detailing this whole process.
My JM came clad with the Mustang bridge, but also with the original. i had a tech reinstall the original during its setup (going up to 11s from 10s), and the thing sounded like a buzzy metal fart.
Finally, i went to a local luthier, who put a BS (came with the JM package) and reset the bridge, added a shim, and sawed off the bridge screw tips.
It sounds better now, although i'm still getting some slight buzz in the low strings. I know that alot of the buzz is with my ham-fisted play, as the luthier sounded sweet when he played. The action is set low.
He was good enough to show how I could do my own setup.
I never realized that playing guitar also involved tinkering.
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 11:20 AM
I'm not really asking a question here. I've read all the related posts and pretty much have all the information I need. I used this topic because the title is the best match for what happened.
Since buying my CIJ Jaguar after my shoulder surgery in March, I've used it exclusively as soon as I could hold it and have used it almost 90 percent of the time, even after I could play my long-scale guitars. Trouble-free. No issues with anything. Until last night.
A friend of mine is leaving to move to Knoxville, TN, and he loves horses, so I decided to take the Jag and play Phantom Mustang by The Intoxicators for him. Well, in between tuning it at home and driving over, the whole bridge sank and the top two saddles dropped to the floor. There had been no previous movement at all.
I think it happened because the garage was very cold and the guitar went from 69 degrees to 28 degrees before the car's heater warmed it up again. I left it in its' case for 30 minutes before trying to tune it, but it happened inside the case.
Anyway, I adjusted the saddles as best I could but didn't have time to level the bridge all the way.
Told you that to tell you this. I've decided my Jag is going to get a better bridge (Its' bridge is nowhere as good as the one on my JM.), a Staytrem like my Jazzmaster and better pickups because it just doesn't sound as good as my Strat or JM, even with the CTS Vintage pots installed. I don't want it to sound the same as them, I just want it to sound as nice as they do.
One thing though. I probably should've put a 500 instead of a 250 CTS Vintage pot under the Tone knob. I'll definitely give that a try. The 250 didn't take the excess overtones out, though it did improve them; just not enough.
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
Last edited: Dec 28, 2012 12:19:27
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idiotdunce
Joined: Apr 23, 2006
Posts: 60
Oakland, CA
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 03:07 PM
Not a cheap solution but mastery bridge with proper set up solved my MIJ Jag bridge/buzzing issues. I even took off buzz stop I had. Buzz free is the way to be!
— Robert
The GnarlyMen
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DannySnyder
Joined: Mar 02, 2006
Posts: 11010
Berkeley, CA
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 03:45 PM
Noel wrote:
One thing though. I probably should've put a 500 instead of a 250 CTS Vintage pot under the Tone knob. I'll definitely give that a try. The 250 didn't take the excess overtones out, though it did improve them; just not enough.
I'm not an expert, but I believe the 250 is less bright than the 500. What kind of strings are you using?
— Danny Snyder
Latest project - Now That's What I Call SURF
_
"With great reverb comes great responsibility" - Uncle Leo
I'm back playing keys and guitar with Combo Tezeta
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 06:12 PM
Thanks Robert and Danny.
Jag never buzzed at all until the saddles dropped into contact with the floor of the bridge. That was some buzz I'll tell you! The buzz stopped when the saddles were raised to proper height.
I will definitely consider the Mastery, but it's not the budget nature of this particular guitar, so I'll probably do a Mustang bridge first. Maybe.
Strings are Mangen 11-52 Flats with wound third. And, yes, in spite of reading every post (!!!) on pots for Jaguars I am still probably confused about which take off excessive overtones. 250s seemed the way to go.
Funny story about that. When Vera (Paul's wife) heard the guitar with the new pots installed she laughed outloud and said, "That's really surfing now!" But I need to turn the Tone down to 5 to get rid of the shrilly overtones. Is that normal? And then the guitar seems to get dull overall.
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
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surfinjohnnyq
Joined: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 35
sioux falls south dakota
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 06:28 PM
Brother ... my POS squire vintage mod....the bridge sank twice on me ... i jacked it up and literally pushed on it to get it to settle. no more pinging and buzzing...PS this is Johnny Kahuna .. from what I read the Mastery Bridge is the current way to go... I am going to upgrade mine to a Mustang bridge..simply because I would rather spend the cash on my player special Jag..
— Landlocked surf lover
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SlacktoneDave
Joined: Jul 01, 2006
Posts: 657
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 07:40 PM
If you have a MIJ bridge, a USA bridge will be better.
side note: the new USA Jags are now going to have some different height adjustment screws that have a channel cut into the side of the screw, with a small piece of perm. lock-tite type of material.
Roundwound 10's on a Jaguar will be a problem
When you set the string height using the saddle screws, be sure the string does not touch the head of the intonation screw, or the end of it, too. It will rattle. You can Dremel off the end of screws that are too long, as a previous poster said.
Mastery bridges really work well, especially if your playing gigs and need the guitar to not re-adjust as you go through your set!
Happy New Year!
~ dave
I reccomend you buy a proper ruler to measure your specs as you attempt to set up the guitar. 6" metal machinists rule, or, a fancy one from stumac.
Last edited: Dec 28, 2012 19:42:28
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on Dec 28 2012 07:57 PM
Thanks Dave! That's lot of good advice. I appreciate it.
May I assume all this means the new Jag bridges can be refit to my early CIJ? Do you know when they will be available as a replacement part. And, does this also mean the bridge from the Johnny Marr will fit as well? I've wondered if it was a real US Mustang bridge or a Mustang-type bridge specific to the JM Jag.
Hope you don't mind if I also ask if you think I put in the right pots for my Jag (250K CTS Vintage)?
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
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vibramutant1965
Joined: Dec 02, 2012
Posts: 51
FL
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Posted on Dec 29 2012 07:29 PM
Daves right on, in years past, you could go to an industrial supply and get those screws with the built in loctite strip, these were known as "nylocs" I used to by a slightly longer pair and grind the points on them , this was a BIG cheap problem solver, I dont know if they are available any longer or in metric for the MIJ bridges , but any one could search "nyloc set screws" on line......
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SlacktoneDave
Joined: Jul 01, 2006
Posts: 657
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Posted on Dec 29 2012 07:42 PM
Noel wrote:
Thanks Dave! That's lot of good advice. I appreciate it.
May I assume all this means the new Jag bridges can be refit to my early CIJ? Do you know when they will be available as a replacement part. And, does this also mean the bridge from the Johnny Marr will fit as well? I've wondered if it was a real US Mustang bridge or a Mustang-type bridge specific to the JM Jag.
Hope you don't mind if I also ask if you think I put in the right pots for my Jag (250K CTS Vintage)?
Well, they are not a new bridge, just new screws for the posts. No new part number, so, I couldn't really guess when they would be in a separate part order. A little frustrating, I'm sure. The USA bridges will fit in the Japan guitars, I think. I know I change the thimbles in my Japan Jags because of the better quality of the USA part.
I think the J Mar bridge goes in the USA thimble... I guess I should no having built so many of them... However, the Japan thimbles are different. I know that because the Mastery Bridges come with two sets of posts. USA and Japan sized.
There is no USA Mustang, I'm pretty sure. They are from Japan.
The 250K will be less bright when the pot is full on, and less dark when turned back compared to a 1Meg pot. I use 250K Superpots from RS Guitarworks, and either 250K, or 500K for Tone.
hope it helps,
~ dave
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SlacktoneDave
Joined: Jul 01, 2006
Posts: 657
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Posted on Dec 29 2012 07:49 PM
vibramutant1965 wrote:
Daves right on, in years past, you could go to an industrial supply and get those screws with the built in loctite strip, these were known as "nylocs" I used to by a slightly longer pair and grind the points on them , this was a BIG cheap problem solver, I dont know if they are available any longer or in metric for the MIJ bridges , but any one could search "nyloc set screws" on line......
Fender had to get these custom made... if there is a source pre-made that would be cool!
MIJ would require a Metric sized screw.
~ dave
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so1om
Joined: May 10, 2012
Posts: 492
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Posted on Dec 29 2012 09:38 PM
McMaster Carr has all kinds of hardware.. Search and order...
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 08:22 AM
Thanks very much vibramutant1965, Dave and so1om. I thought I had all the information I needed. Offsets (especially Jaguars) really are an adventure.
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
Last edited: Dec 30, 2012 08:27:40
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Sonichris
Joined: Mar 06, 2006
Posts: 1873
Wear gloves - I'm in the Rockies
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 12:39 PM
Why not just buy a small tube of medium strength thread lock, or locktite? I've set up all my Jag style bridges with it, and they don't move unless I want them to. I $6 bottle will last a lifetime.
— "You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"
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SmileySmile
Joined: May 05, 2012
Posts: 34
Private residence, man.
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 02:29 PM
I don't know if it's been said, but there are different grades of Loctite. Meant to keep screws from slipping from vibration and what not, but put a wrench on it and turn and it'll turn. No soldering iron needed lol. You gotta be careful, the higher grade Loctite will prevent it from being turned by a wrench, and you'll end up stripping the screw.
— You can put humbuckers in it, but why?
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Noel
Joined: Mar 15, 2011
Posts: 8528
Back in Piitsburgh, Pennsylvania, where I grew up.
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 02:57 PM
It has, but thanks for the reminder. I've used Blue Loctite on my motorcycles' outer fasteners for decades. Keeps things like license plates and fenders from falling off high-vibration applications like my old BSA.
Never use Red or Green on anything that can't be heated to above the adhesive's melting point (150 - 230 degrees F depending on color and type).
http://www.loctitesolutions.com/files/AN09/Threadlocking_Guide.pdf
My question is, is Purple Loctite sticky enough to use on Jaguar bridge parts or ought I to use Blue, or is Blue too sticky for the strength of the parts involved?
Thanks. This will hold me over for now. I'm probably still switching to a Mustang bridge for a while just because the bridge on my CIJ Jag is just not as good as the one on my CIJ JM.
SmileySmile wrote:
I don't know if it's been said, but there are different grades of Loctite. Meant to keep screws from slipping from vibration and what not, but put a wrench on it and turn and it'll turn. No soldering iron needed lol. You gotta be careful, the higher grade Loctite will prevent it from being turned by a wrench, and you'll end up stripping the screw.
— This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.
Last edited: Dec 30, 2012 14:58:24
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LHR
Joined: Aug 23, 2006
Posts: 2123
The jungle
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 05:52 PM
Noel: if you need purple Loctite, I think you could mix red and blue.
— SSIV
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Stokemon
Joined: Feb 09, 2010
Posts: 413
Goleta, CA
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 07:45 PM
Noel wrote:
t
Thanks. This will hold me over for now. I'm probably still switching to a Mustang bridge for a while just because the bridge on my CIJ Jag is just not as good as the one on my CIJ JM.
Noel, I bought a Mustang bridge from this e-bay seller recently. It's the real Fender part. It works great! Easy to set up, intonation was a snap and it's solid as a rock. And it arrived in 4 days! For 30 bucks, you can't go wrong
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300837462675
— You're not drunk if you can put your socks on while standing.
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JakeDobner
Joined: Feb 26, 2006
Posts: 12159
Seattle
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 08:02 PM
Fingernail polish works as well. Shouldn't need anything if the bridge is set up correctly. Balance is everything on these bridges, if one side is higher then things will rattle and lower.
You barely need any loctite or polish. And if you use it once you should never need it again even if you adjust the screws. It is needed most to make a tighter fit. Most necessary on Japanese bridges from my experience. Haven't own a Japanese one in years though.
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morphball
Joined: Dec 23, 2008
Posts: 3324
Pittsboro, NC
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Posted on Dec 30 2012 09:08 PM
SlacktoneDave wrote:
I think the J Mar bridge goes in the USA thimble... I guess I should no having built so many of them... However, the Japan thimbles are different. I know that because the Mastery Bridges come with two sets of posts. USA and Japan sized.
Yep, I can confirm these use the US .310 size, I've got a Mastery on my JM jag. Dave, is there any way I could tell if you built mine? That would be so freaking rad.
— Mike
http://www.youtube.com/morphballio
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