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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Soldering on brass shielding plates

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Greetings all,

I recently acquired an AV65 jazzmaster and I would like to replace both pickups. I've seen that both ground wires from the pups are soldered directly to the brass plate. I wouldn't like to damage the nitro finish on the back side of the guitar, would it be safe to melt the leaded solder directly or would you remove the brass plate from the cavity before melting it?
Anybody?

Thank you!

Last edited: Jul 05, 2019 19:10:50

I think you'll be fine doing it with the plate in the guitar. The plate itself will spread the heat out a bunch and the wood of the guitar will soak up plenty before the finish would ever feel it.

And one little solder blob per pickup shouldn't take more than a few seconds of contact. Turn the temp up high so you blast it fast and get it melted before it starts to conduct away.

I don't do this kind of work but I would really like to. Soon I hope to completely change my lifestyle and part of that includes getting deep into this stuff.

I may attempt a wiring project, to re-insert jaguar guts after the body comes back from a refin. I took out those plates to send the body off, so I had to melt those solders. MAN were those tough! They were like solid metal for a long time, until all at once it would liquefy. Not only was I using the wrong device, but the tip was way too small. (I realized I'd bought it to solder TA5 connectors, not regular sized stuff!)

I was speaking to a tech about how tough the solder on those points were, and he pointed to a soldering gun and said to use that. The other solders aren't so tough but with a massive gun like the one below, those plate solders are quick. For all other soldering a Weller iron should be good.

I don't know any of this first hand and I feel kind of dumb posting about stuff I don't know about, when any moment someone else will dive in and give some straight dope! Redfeather? Does this jibe with reality?

image

Daniel Deathtide

I've only ever used a Weller iron but yeah, I imagine a high power gun is the way to go when you're dealing with a joint that has potential to take a while and spread the heat around, which is what you don't want. Hit it hard and fast with high heat to achieve quick local liquification.

If you don't have much experience soldering, you may make unpredictable mistakes. So, I suggest you expect there will be solder drip and splash and cover up sensitive parts with masking tape or something.

Insanitizers! http://www.insanitizers.com

thanks guys. I finally gone ahead with a 70W solder with flat tip directly in the cavitie with succes, no damage in the back finish.
thanks!

-

Last edited: Mar 03, 2022 06:51:05

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