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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink NGD: Squier Jazzmaster

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I put clear nail polish on the height screws to keep them from moving. It works for me.


Home of Surf & Twang

DrippinReverb wrote:

You can always try loctite (the kind that's not permanent) to 'set' the screws once you intonate properly. Some of the Squier bridge's grub screws have a way of working themselves out sometimes from all the vibrations frpm playing.

Exactly, which explains why these guitars need a new setup so often.

revmike wrote:

I put clear nail polish on the height screws to keep them from moving. It works for me.

Use non permanent Loctite as suggested above or the clear nail polish which is what I use as well. You can also wait until the bridge parts rust or 'gunk up' from sweat and palm muting. I dab nail polish on all those little screws until they stay put.

ELZEB wrote:

dip saddle and intonation screws in machine oil, do a setup making sure all saddle screws make contact with the base plate.

For reasons explained above I would definitely advise against using any kind of lubricant as it will make matters worse.
You are however spot on explaining where the 'buzzing' and rattling comes from (some sadle screws not touching the bridge base and thus rocking/buzzing)

LordWellfleet wrote:

For the life of me I haven't been able to find that post through numerous searches. I'm grateful to anyone who might remember that post and could point me to it.

If you could tell just a little bit more I might be able to help you find it.
Could it perhaps be this thread:

The brightness is caused by the 1M pots (vol + tone) and the inherent design of JM pickups.
Here's a very nice pickup analysis (although I know you have swapped out the stock pickups, or at least the previous owner did so.)

Last edited: Apr 12, 2019 18:19:09

Had a Squier VM Jag. Made sure all the saddle feet were touching the bridge plate, dabbed some clear nail polish to the screw tops and underneath, put on a set of 11's and no buzz. I also put tape around the two height adjustment posts so the bridge no longer floated and screwed the base flush against the body and raised the saddles which helped with the break angle.

Just got done replacing my high E string after it broke because the windings at the ball end were abraded by the vibrato fulcrum screwhead down there, which--despite the previous owner grinding them down flat--stuck up far enough to hit the strings.

I countersunk the plate and put in a new flat headed screw and it should work now. Continue to be unimpressed with the Jazzmaster...

But then I guess it's unfair of me to expect Fender to have fully worked the bugs out of this model, since it's been out such a short time.

Although I replaced the screw with a flatter version (under the low E, not the high e), I've noticed on another occasion that when adjusting the spring tension (the adjustment screw in the middle), the fulcrum sits slightly higher or lower.
So, that might be the actual solution for this 'problem'.

The other, most often mentioned, solution is to put the screws at the underside instead of on top.
Maybe this works on real Fender base plates, but I couldn't see how this was possible on the Squier versions.

I do however, by default, put some solder on the windings of the unwound strings.

Last edited: Apr 14, 2019 19:33:41

Thought I'd update with some pics of the vibrato screw swap. Even with the flat headed one, the low E damn near touches. I wouldn't want to sacrifice the freedom to adjust the vibrato arm to the desired preload just to accommodate this stupid design flaw!

The new screws aren't able to sit totally flush because the depth of the countersink is limited by the fact that the fulcrum piece is hardened steel. I used a HSS countersink bit but I didn't want to push things and try to force it into that piece so I settled for the screws sitting a bit proud. It works but just barely!

The screws are 8-32, 3/8" long.


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