JakeDobner wrote:

No clue! I've honestly never measured. My Mandolin action could be a little lower, that is all I know.

I have two jags loaded up with .12s(both TI flats) and three with .11s.(DRs, GTS, TI flats)

Thanks. I like the DR 11's but still really love the sound 12's bring out so still waffling. Only thing for sure is that I'm really enjoying the Jag.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

JakeDobner wrote:

DR 12s have a wound g... that is why I don't use DR .12s. I do not like roundwound g strings.

Same here. Right now I'm just trying some D'Addario 12's with a plain .020 G. Wish DR would just take their 11's and super-size 'em. But it does fine with 11's too so we'll see.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

JakeDobner wrote:

NO!!! Say no to hexcore strings!

Elaborate please.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

Ok...the buzzing on the low E and to a lesser extent the A string came back.
I did a slight truss rod tweak, putting just a smidge more of relief in the neck (don't know about other Jags but this one likes a real straight neck set-up w/ a minimum of relief) and that took care of any buzzing in the first position down to around the middle of the neck. The thing I did was sort of a happy accident. I figured I would just check the action at the bridge for any movement and in doing so decided to reposition all the strings on their respective saddles from where I had previously set them (there had been no string migration on the saddles from my initial set-up which is a good thing) and I seem to have found the optimum saddle slot positions for all the strings, especially the low E and A. The strings are now evenly spaced with a good compromise between fretboard spacing and being in line with the pu pole slugs. Most importantly, all the buzz is gone from the low E and A unless I really flog the strings. At this point I see no need to shim the neck as I am not getting any slot jumping with my current set-up. Now I would love to just start enjoying playing the Jag instead of tinkering. There is definitely wisdom in being a little patient and learning / figuring out how to properly set-up one of these little beasties.

Last edited: Oct 16, 2017 12:25:24

"Surfadelphia: Glad the issue has gone away and you've got a playable instrument. Definitely err on the side of playing vs. tweaking and enjoy the guitar!"

I do tend to be an obsessive tweaker.....but I do get a satisfaction and enjoyment out of getting the best set-up and playability out of a guitar...it's all very therapeutic. Better a guitar in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

I will say on the E and A strings, if they are buzzing when open and not buzz when you fret anywhere, don't worry about it. Buzz when fretting = bad. Buzz when playing open = probably not bad. Generally you don't hear it when plugged in. Long story short, if you can hear the buzz when plugged in = bad.

Badger wrote:

Since you mention GTS, which I see has 12's with a plain .020 G, I'll ask how you feel they last since that's more than I'll have dropped for a set of strings in, like, my life. Also, where do you get them? (GTS' drop-down doesn't have 12-20p-54 listed to shop there, even though they mention it; might send them a note.)

They will last a VERY VERY long time. Longest lasting non-flat string I've ever used. I did five gigs + practices over a year and a half on one set. You can order off the website, I buy locally. Gabriel is awesome and you can shoot him an e-mail for exactly what you want.

Back to the obsessive tweaking dept....got tired of the trem arm falling out and all the play in the arm. Tried the teflon plummer's tape trick and really liked the results; felt great, arm moved smoothly out of the way, etc but the tape wasn't staying intact very long. Did some more research and threw caution to the wind and tried the "make a very, very slight bend" in the part of the arm that goes into the collet and that actually worked very well. I will put some nut lube on the part of the arm that goes into the collet to make it smoother to move the arm in or out of the way. Just a tip for anyone doing the bend trick.....the bend should be so slight that you can hardly notice it if a all when eyeballing the trem arm.

Last edited: Oct 17, 2017 09:25:40

So far I haven't had much of an issue with the saddles migrating down but it apparently is a common problem. Some have recommended investing in a USA made Fender American Vintage Jag bridge as the tolerances are allegedley superior to the stock Squier bridge. I used a little clear nail polish on the threads...but time will tell.
Badger, I can relate to the "age-related dexterity things".

Last edited: Nov 05, 2017 00:14:54

BamaSurf wrote:

It wasn't the saddles....the bridge itself..on the bass side ...weird

Not weird at all, it happens. Locktite those too.

I set my bridge saddles so the strings do not touch the bridge or the intonation screws. I like the way the bridge moves with the tremolo action, similar to my Gretsch's. I did shim the neck so I could raise the bridge and saddles together in unison to keep the strings from deadening out. Took some time but found the sweet spot.