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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink SurfyTrem DIY builds and FAQ's

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Hi everyone,

I'm wondering if there's a simple mod that would let me run my SurfyTrem a little slower than the default minimum speed that comes with the stock kit? Would changing the speed pot value do that?

To clarify, I find myself in the lower end of the dials for both controls most of the time, though more so for the speed (often I run it on minimum). I'm happy to sacrifice some of the upper end of the existing range (for both controls actually), and it's be great to be able to dial them in a bit more finely too.

Happy to hear any suggestions. It's a great pedal, and I can use it as is. But if it's at all possible to go slower, that would be fantastic. And if it's as simple as substituting another pot, I'd also be happy to hear which value/type would give finer control over the depth too.

Thanks!

Easy way to work out whether changing the speed pot would help, is to work out what the resistance is, when the oscillator is at it's slowest. Time to get the multimeter out.

If it's at 100KΩ when it's slowest, changing to a 250K pot might help. If it's at 0Ω then adding a bigger pot would give you faster speeds instead of slower.

Be aware that deviating from the design might have unintended side effects. Maybe 100K is the highest 'stable' value, and above that the oscillator doesn't run properly. Only way to tell is to try!

If I were you, rather than break a 1900kr pedal, I'd invest 500kr in the kit, which is super cheap, and you can run flyleads or add a pin header to let you try different values without resoldering the PCB every ten minutes. Good luck!

They who die with the fewest control knobs, win.

Last edited: Apr 28, 2018 04:35:22

I added an extra pot to dial in slower speeds:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28106/?page=6#p402798

Thanks so far everyone

j_flanders wrote:

I added an extra pot to dial in slower speeds:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28106/?page=6#p402798

Thanks! I had a read of your linked post, and I'd like to try the extra pot approach. Would I be able to ask for a little more info please? Since there are 3 lugs, I am not sure how to wire in series (I understand with 2 lugs, but not 3). Also, the speed pot in the kit is a 100K Rev Lin - am I reading correctly that you used a 250K linear (not reverse) pot for the "extra slower" speeds?

(I should clarify - based on a reply above - that my SurfyTrem is the kit version and so I'm fine with opening it up an having a go at this mod.)

Anyway, I'm glad hear that there's a way to move ahead with this, and I'm sure I'll enjoy the trem even more once I can access those lower speeds.

Kind regards,
Bern

Last edited: Apr 28, 2018 16:04:35

I soldered a 1M linear pot in series to one of the outside lugs of the speed pot. I can't remember which one. You have a 50% chance of doing it right the first time.:)

image

I choose a 1M linear pot because you need exponentially more resistance to go slower and slower. As posted previously:
0k extra : 210 bpm (slowest stock)
55k extra : 196 bpm
155k extra : 182 bpm

You'll see an additional range of 14bpm (210-196) with 55k ohm extra, but you need almost twice (100k ohm) for the same additional range of 14bpm (196-182).
You will probably need an extra 200k Ohm for the next additional 14 bpm. Hence my choice for a 1M pot.

Last edited: Apr 28, 2018 17:58:57

Finally completed my SurfyTrem kit build - managed to fit it inside a 1590 B type case; that took some planning, careful drilling, and lots of hot glue to keep components from moving & shorting out...

image
image

Cool! That would have been quite a puzzle! Looking forward to the next one with battery power. Popcorn

I admire your creative use of hotsnot, and good job!

Now, please go buy a heat gun and some shrinkwrap ready for next time? Wink

They who die with the fewest control knobs, win.

Already got plenty of shrink wrap, thanks...

If it was deliberate then, may I ask why you used hotsnot to insulate the terminals on the jack sockets, rather than using your heatshrink? Curious to know what the advantage is.

They who die with the fewest control knobs, win.

I used it mainly to keep the PCB from moving around in the case (not enough room for stand-off clips), and to keep the LED from falling out of its hole (didn't have any LED sockets at home).
And while I was at it, I put some on the tabs of the jacks, but more for keeping the board from moving, rather than for isolation - shrink wrap wouldn't have helped with that...

That makes sense, thank you for explaining! Smile

They who die with the fewest control knobs, win.

Pretty sure my tremolo quest is over now I've had this thing kicking around on my board for a while. Nice and simple and does exactly what I need. I'm running it at 12v. Layout is a little goofy, so I might rehouse it in a bigger enclosure and put a foot switch in place of the toggle.

image

Last edited: Jun 04, 2018 00:49:04

Just got mine in the mail. I see I have a lot to read here.

j_flanders wrote:

I soldered a 1M linear pot in series to one of the outside lugs of the speed pot. I can't remember which one. You have a 50% chance of doing it right the first time.:)

image

Hey I'm planning on building my kit this weekend with a 3PDT switch, but while looking at your schematic I was wondering why didn't you choose to use the switch GND and pin at the top of the board between the power in and the output section? instead of interrupting the circuit at the LED

Last edited: Jun 15, 2018 17:33:14

Lechero wrote:

Hey I'm planning on building my kit this weekend with a 3PDT switch

If I can chime in...

I made a pedal with true bypass because I have a playground with a lot of pedals and I want to be able to take out any effect completely or even disconnect DC. Then I discovered that it was designed to give you that vintage signal change even when not used which also means volume drop (this does not matter).

So I did this:

true bypass 3PDT:

in    return (footswitch gnd =ON)
send  out    (footswitch)
X     Y      (disconnected =OFF)

DPDT mode switch (original / true bypass):

in    return (always through circuit)
X     Y
gnd   in     (SEND to GND, bypass)

So in addition to 3PDT push switch I have another DPDT slide switch on the side which makes the 3PDT true bypass or lets me use it as designed.

Lechero wrote:

Hey I'm planning on building my kit this weekend with a 3PDT switch, but while looking at your schematic I was wondering why didn't you choose to use the switch GND and pin at the top of the board between the power in and the output section? instead of interrupting the circuit at the LED

I drew that schematic before I had the kit. I didn't know if the led would stay on/blinking if you bypassed the effect because the led is connected to the oscillator.
You can read about my questions and Björns answers over here in the other SurfyTrem thread:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28106/?page=6#p401443

IIRC I wired my other Surfy Trem using that GND switch connection.

@otaznik That sounds like a nice solution. I might try that on mine.

Last edited: Jun 16, 2018 05:14:12

Yes, there are a lot of options

otaznik wrote:

I made a pedal with true bypass ... that vintage signal change even when not used which also means volume drop (this does not matter).

So I did this:

true bypass 3PDT:

in    return (footswitch gnd =ON)
send  out    (footswitch)
X     Y      (disconnected =OFF)

DPDT mode switch (original / true bypass):

in    return (always through circuit)
X     Y
gnd   in     (SEND to GND, bypass)

So in addition to 3PDT push switch I have another DPDT slide switch on the side which makes the 3PDT true bypass or lets me use it as designed.

Oh my gosh! this is so clever...
I sort of understand the conceptual idea, although I'm not absolutely sure I understand your diagram, so is it like this:

on the footswitch 3PDT:
     in   <pin1>    return <pin2>      (footswitch gnd =ON)<pin3>
     send <pin4>    out    <pin5>      (footswitch)        <pin6>
     X    <pin7>    Y      <pin8>      (disconnected =OFF) <pin9 ¿nothing?>

on the additional mode switch (original / true bypass):    
     in                     return (original mode)
     X <from 3pdt pin7>     Y      <to 3pdt pin8>
     gnd                    in     (true bypass mode)

Last edited: Jun 19, 2018 17:56:12

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