Shoutbox

TheOutpost: strap
112 days ago

ArtS: Spam Formum posts this morning. Do not click.
111 days ago

Floyd: Tremolo
105 days ago

bigtikidude: Who’s coming to SG101?
89 days ago

Jojobaplant: Second Magnatech album on Sharawaji in a few weeks on CD and Vinyl!
76 days ago

jimbones: New stuff coming from the Men in Gray Suits REALLY SOON!
73 days ago

midwestsurfguy: Looking forward to SG102 2022
66 days ago

bigtikidude: Thanks for coming Guy!
32 days ago

MamaGrass: The Bloat Floaters rock!
11 days ago

MamaGrass: TOMORROW, Saturday 8/13! Come on out to one of the raddest venues Winters Tavern, and watch The Bloat Floaters kick out the jams!
3 days ago

Please login or register to shout.

Current Polls

No polls at this time. Check out our past polls.

Current Contests

No contests at this time. Check out our past contests.

Donations

Help us meet our monthly goal:

76%

76%

Donate Now

SG101 Banner

SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink SurfyTrem DIY builds and FAQ's

New Topic
Goto Page: Previous 1 2 3 4 5 610 11 Next

All set, time to get to work!

image

Last edited: Apr 16, 2017 09:44:12

What was the reasoning behind making this NOT true bypass? Popping noises? Differences in output levels?

I'm running both my guitar and lap steel through a vintage Fender Volume-Tone pedal, and the tone part (which I only use for boo-wah effects with the lap steel, and without effects) does NOT work if there is ANY kind of buffer in front of it.
Could I simply hardwire the SurfyTrem footswitch lugs for "always on", and switch the whole thing with a regular 3PDT footswitch connected to the input & output?

Hello RomanS.
From the Surfy-Trem's site:

NO TRUE BYPASS
Is a vintage amplifier true bypass? Changing the tone a little bit is part of the game here and we wanted to keep it so. We did not invent a new effect, our purpose is to allow everybody to enjoy that sound without carrying around a heavy and expensive instrument.

Makes sense to me. My take:
There are so many pedals in the market that do it "almost". The Surfy Industries' philosophy to bring the most authentic FET reproductions of classic circuits, exactly as in the original circuit, is successful with lot of players.
Build it, you'll know Cool

Usually, as the amp trem it emulates, it would make sense to place it after everything else in the chain. That way no buffer loading would interfere with other FX. If you want it somewhere else, well, it is what it is. Wah's and fuzzes haven't played right together forever.

As for the 3PDT, seems logical that it would do just that. Go for it.

Last edited: Apr 18, 2017 08:51:32

RomanS wrote:

What was the reasoning behind making this NOT true bypass? Popping noises? Differences in output levels?

I'm running both my guitar and lap steel through a vintage Fender Volume-Tone pedal, and the tone part (which I only use for boo-wah effects with the lap steel, and without effects) does NOT work if there is ANY kind of buffer in front of it.
Could I simply hardwire the SurfyTrem footswitch lugs for "always on", and switch the whole thing with a regular 3PDT footswitch connected to the input & output?

Sure. No problem with true bypass. Works fine.

EDIT: the Fender Tone/Volume pedal is passive and needs to be connected to a high impedance source such as a guitar, so it has to go first. In fact Ariel is right to note the amps tremolo is always last in the chain. If you fit your trem with a true bypass and place it before the volume pedal it will still give you trouble when it's activated.

Last edited: Apr 18, 2017 10:16:20

Thanks! I'll head right over to the ordering page then... ;)

In this thread as well as in the manual it is mentioned to be very careful with polarity, but I managed to get it wrong anyway...

Tip of today, read the manual before soldering! After kind reply from Surfy Industries I managed to get it right and now have a functional SurfyTrem Big Grin

I am very satisfied with my Surfy Bear FET Reverb and SurfyTrem. Go get one at once, if you haven´t decided yet!

image

Gilette wrote:

I just uploaded a drill pattern for the 1590BB enclosure. Brian has to approve the upload first, so have a little patience... I'll get back to you.

Will this still pattern fit if I stick the potentiometers spiky bits in the holes? And then bend?

Apologies for my technological use of words!!

Clarry wrote:

Gilette wrote:

I just uploaded a drill pattern for the 1590BB enclosure. Brian has to approve the upload first, so have a little patience... I'll get back to you.

Will this still pattern fit if I stick the potentiometers spiky bits in the holes? And then bend?

Apologies for my technological use of words!!

I printed out the plans, and the pots were too wide compared to the board. I pre-bent the "spikey things" before I soldered them, BTW. My pots were 35mm apart. And I flipped the switch and the LED around, but those holes spacing were fine. I didn't solder the LED until I had the pots and board mounted, and the LED secured in the hole.

"You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"

Clarry wrote:

Gilette wrote:

I just uploaded a drill pattern for the 1590BB enclosure. Brian has to approve the upload first, so have a little patience... I'll get back to you.

Will this still pattern fit if I stick the potentiometers spiky bits in the holes? And then bend?

Apologies for my technological use of words!!

Good question... I'm affraid I didn't take that into account. Nor the placement of the led directly on the pcb. Tell you what, if you're sure the width between the two centre connections of the potmeters is 35 mm, I'll redraw the layout of the drilling guide tomorrow morning. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Last edited: Apr 19, 2017 14:23:14

I just measured my 2nd kit. 35mm.

"You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"

Sonichris wrote:

I just measured my 2nd kit. 35mm.

Thanks. I'll PM you guys as soon as I'm ready.

Ok Clarry and Sonichris, I've sent you a download link for the drilling pattern. The new drawing will also be available in the download section when Brian has approved it.

image

Last edited: Apr 20, 2017 03:15:53

Thanks thats very good of you.

The new pattern looks great! The only thing I might mention to builders is to be aware of the brown/black switch placement in relation to the 12v power jack. My power jack is about 15mm long, and the only reason it cleared the switch was because I moved the power jack down, which created other issues. ( I had to notch the back cover to clear the jack.)
image
image

"You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"

Gilette's revised diagram is now available here.

Thanks Gilette!

Site dude - S3 Agent #202
Need help with the site? SG101 FAQ - Send me a private message - Email me

"It starts... when it begins" -- Ralf Kilauea

Quick question... is it possible, or has anyone wired this up with a second foot switch to toggle between black & brown face mode w/o having to bend down mid set?

www.instagram.com/The.Outer_Limits
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX7iIpcAvL8In2HY9I7QoPw
www.theouterlimits.bandcamp.com
www.facebook.com/vertigogo.surf

I thought the same thing. I would need a new box but I'm thinking about it.

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

Sonichris wrote:

The new pattern looks great! The only thing I might mention to builders is to be aware of the brown/black switch placement in relation to the 12v power jack. My power jack is about 15mm long, and the only reason it cleared the switch was because I moved the power jack down, which created other issues. ( I had to notch the back cover to clear the jack.)
image
image

Hmmmmm.... Hmmm I figured there would be more space to work with there. Seems I was wrong. I'll add a few mm. to solve this. Glad you made it work. Updated drawings in a few hours.

Gilette wrote:

About 50 mm x 70 mm, give or take a few mm. I can't check right now...

Is it give or take? Because 50 should fit 1590B but if you give a few mm you're screwed.

otaznik wrote:

Gilette wrote:

About 50 mm x 70 mm, give or take a few mm. I can't check right now...

Is it give or take? Because 50 should fit 1590B but if you give a few mm you're screwed.

The board is exactly 50mm x 70mm. I have a 1590b box, and couldn't figure out an easy way to make all the parts fit if I wanted a foot switch too.

"You can't tell where you're going if you don't know where you've been"

Goto Page: Previous 1 2 3 4 5 610 11 Next
Top