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SurfGuitar101 Forums » The Shallow End »

Permalink Who here actually surfs?

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i'm getting ready to go right now.............weeeeeeee

www.surfintheeye.com

Nice pics Goob!
I haven't been in the water for over a month!!!
No shortie suits for us in Oregon... 4/3 suits... on super balmy days we might go without booties. Surfing is still more fun than... just about anything else!
-Steve

Steve
The Apollo Four 2012-present
https://www.facebook.com/ApolloFour/
The Verbtones 2002-2012

Slingerland61:

Thanks--occassionally my wife follows me to the beach--thats the only reason I have a few photos.

I surfed in Oregon a few years back. It was some state park cove just north of Manzanita/Rockaway Beach but I can't remember the name. It was summer and I rented a full 5 ml suit with head cover and boots and it was still bone numbing cold! Don't know how you guys do it.

My pic at Sayulita was my first day out and I wore a shorty because it was December. It was too much and I wore just a swim suit the rest of the time. Hawaii, the water temp is so perfect--swim suit plus rash guard and booties just in case I get pinned on the reefs. The skin on us old farts doesn't heal that quickly.

goober

Here's a pic of me on one of the better days I've caught here on the right coast, riding an old style 9'6" longboard.

[image](http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/1798/dsc00272bq4.th.jpg)

Last edited: Aug 12, 2007 21:14:06

I'm not a surfer, but I play one on TV -

Honestly, I think I would be scared to death.

On another topic, to Joelman - love your ice blue jm.
groucho26 Rolling Eyes

Sorry about the thread drift guys.
groucho26

On another topic, to Joelman - love your ice blue jm.
groucho26

Thank you. It is a '62 reissue I just got a month or so ago. I really like it.

Back on Topic.
groucho26 .... It is hard and scary at first. But once you get the hang of surfing it is overwelhming.

When I was young and slim and back then I could swim. I was floating on balsa and foam. Now that I'm fat and old, I am I stay where I'm told, cause those waves can be pretty cold. LMAO

Joel

I was gonna take it up in the Bay Area but never did. Stories
would pop up on the evening news with alarming regularity about
how the great white sharks were excising important body parts
from the local surfers. Since learning a new sport is hard enough
without having to worry about a 20-ft-long, man-eating carnivore
getting in the way, I chose to snowboard. I got to where I could
actually do it well enough to satisfy the ignorant and annoy the
skiers; but I was hardly a "dude" or even remotely "extreme".

Later a willy-nilly tile setting experience created the perfect
occasion for my left knee to foment a violent uprising to protest
this folly of youth. Sadly, I likely will never get the chance to surf.
Though here in the desert, it is moot.

SSIV

Right now we are getting infested with huge purple jelly fish. Relatively harmless if you get stung, but they are like up to 20 feet long. The lsast time these jellyfish made it into San Diego waters was about 10 years ago.

My wife got a picture of one on the beaches in Coronado. I will have to post it up. They are crazy looking.

Other than that the swell in SoCal has been pretty fun this summer for the most part. Flat spells only lasting a day or two before it gets back into the waist to chest high range again.

_RT

we had fun surf here today also, and little jellyfish pieces to sting you in the shallower water.

www.surfintheeye.com

Just watched the documentry "Liquid Stage"..stoked again...leaving now for Salmon Creek...beautiful film...

www.northofmalibu.com

Joining in on the surf conversation...Here's a shot of me last year in Fiji on Nomotu Island (which is the sister island to Tavarua, the better known of the two). 17 friends and I rented out the whole island and surfed perfect waves by ourselves for 10 days. Makes coming back to flat, overcrowded HB a little difficult!

image

I hopeI posted the web link correctly,...

Little help for a rookie link poster?

Ted, it looks like you did it correctly. I think the problem is that you have to register at that site for that URL to return a picture. I'm no expert though...

Don

Don,
I think you are right...damn Kodak Gallery

Just adding a few pics from a nice Sunday morning session in Malibu. all the same wave. Heading for Kauai tomorrow:

imageimage

imageimage

image

Thanks to Goober for keeping this thread moving and the great photos.
I love to get out and have a surf, catch up with friends every Saturday morning for surf and check the surf everyday on the way to work (unsafe!). It's a great way to wash off the dirt.
Sounds like most people like longboards out there? I am riding Tom Wegener boards a 10 foot traditional old/new mal and one of his 9'6" Paulownia boards. His Paulownia boards are beautiful, timber boards with big old D fins. Works of art that are beautiful to surf. Tom's website is: tomwegenersurfboards.com
I've made a few boards over the years and am currently making my own surf wax out of natural products.
Waxhead

i ride all short boards ranging from 6'2" to 6'4". we got really fun surf at huntington pier after the surf convention weekend and then returned home to some really fun surf. we've got two tropical systems brewing in the atlantic right now which could produce some good surf. hopefully they will stay out to sea.

www.surfintheeye.com

todays the fourth day in a row the surf has been
decent here. this part of the east coast is not
part of the 'least' coast. surfing is my mental
health break.

www.surfintheeye.com

I grew up surfing in Huntington Beach. In the late 60's there was this steel pier for construction being done at the mouth of the Santa Ana River at the Newport - HB border. There was a really nice wave that broke there. You could only go left. Surfed the HB Pier of course. Always lots of kooks as well as well known surfers there. Had a 9'6" Chuck Dent I think it was. Yellow with a single redwood fin. It was a real log. My parents gave it away after I moved out. Bummer.

Robert August used to have a surf shop in HB diagonal across the street from where the surf museum is now located. I used to sit on my bike looking in the back door watching him shape boards.

Career & career related injuries curtailed my surfing. Just had one shoulder fixed. Soon as the other shoulder has been fixed I plan to test out the shoulder & the knees & hit it again. Not sure if it will be possible but I'm going to try.

I surf, but I SUCK.

image

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