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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Mosrite Question

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Hello, This is a tough question but I was looking for some sort of guidance. My dream guitar is a vintage Mosrite Ventures mk1. I finally found the one I have been looking for (ink blue) it has the “Mosley” tailpiece so I know it is newer than 1964. The serial number is 3420. I was wondering if anyone could ballpark a date to reassure me that it is legit. It has the aluminum nut. I have attached a photo.

I don't see a photo Surfpunk63

Danny Snyder

Latest project - Now That's What I Call SURF
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"With great reverb comes great responsibility" - Uncle Leo

I'm back playing keys and guitar with Combo Tezeta

Surfpunk,
With no picture and without a net -

The serial number indicates a 1966 model - maybe - it could be a very late, late 1965.
1966 Indicators would be:
The truss rod adjustment is at the headstock. If it's at the base of the neck, then you lucked out with a late 1965. The "Mosley" tailpiece and 'M' control knobs (not the pre-'65 smooth knobs') are other indicators.
And of course, check the control pots date codes.

A word of caution on a 1966 Mosrite model as I've owned many Mosrites -
Make sure you play or get a trial period for this guitar. Moseley had really ramped up production in 1966. He was hiring unskilled labor - (often ex-convicts) and had really "streamlined" the guitar's construction with frequently compromised quality control problems. The biggest and worst was using pot metal instead of the forgings for the tailpiece. Avoid those like the plague. Those Mosrites with pot metal tailpieces just plain suck.
I've actually had to fix the electronics on some of the late '65-'66 models - the volume and tone control pots center lugs were soldered together along with quite slipshod soldering.

I've actually dumped the 1966 models I owned over the years.
The 65's were good; the 67's (no Ventures headstock logo) were more refined. I haven't met a 66 model that I liked. But that's just my experience.

So - like GM Camaros and Firebirds, you may get a good one; you may get a lemon.

Hope this helps and your guitar works out for you.

BTW - if you're paying $3K or better for it, "Walk, Don't Run" away.

J Mo'

Last edited: Feb 26, 2021 08:33:03

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I think I finally attached the photos and it looks to be a 1966 to me based on what was said. How much do you think it is worth?

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There also is an issue with the binding at the 3rd fret...is this fixable or playable? I hope these photos help determine if it is a decent guitar. Thank you guys!
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Surfpunk,
From the looks of it, you have a winner! The immediate news is that it is most likely a very late in the year 1965 - not a 1966. The truss rod adjustment at the base of the neck indicates a 1965 model. The 'M' knobs came around in late 1965 replacing the smooth knobs. The date codes on the control pots should confirm a 1965 year if they haven't been replaced.

You have the correct type of Mosley tailpiece for a 1965. In 1966, the tailpieces were being made from cheap Zamak. Who wants a guitar tailpiece made of cheap zinc?

Fixing the binding shouldn't be a big deal for any competent luthier. And I would get it fixed as soon as possible - it isn't going to stabilize and fix itself. You might chip more of it off with playing; so just get it fixed.

It appears that the guitar also has the 1/2 round nut (Best I can tell from the photos) - all the more indication of a 1965 model. Later models had a 1/4 round nut.

So - if you can pull this in at around $3K or under - with the original brown alligator case, you got yourself a bargain.

One last thing - The action looks a bit high - for a Mosrite. See if there is some more room to lower the bridge to the body. You are always better off if you can lower the stings FLAT to the fretboard and then raise them up to the string height action you prefer.

Here to help
J' Mo

Last edited: Feb 27, 2021 08:37:46

JohnnyMosrite,
I really appreciate your guidance. The information you have shared with me is so helpful on my quest for a mosrite. It does have the case but there are stickers on it which I will try to remove. I have been talking to two different people the person with that Ink Blue and a guy with a black mk1. The dream guitar for me would be the blue. My next question:
The black guitar is an older one (1964 - 1965) I will attach photos at the bottom. The binding from the 12th Fret is broke off but he has it still. The person is only the second owner of the guitar so I believe it is all original. The neck would need refretted in general due to years of playing. It seems to me it would be a more rare guitar but would it be worth it to get the black and have a more rare guitar or get the blue 65 that doesn’t need much work. Also would this older black guitar be a better playing guitar over all since it is older? It seems to me the blue will be perfect and I am happy with that since you told me all about it, but because I have two opportunities I was wondering what you thought the best choice was?
As in:
choice 1 get the nice Blue 1965 and have binding repaired
Choice 2 get older vibramute 64-65 which needs fretted and large piece of binding fixed
I prefer the blue color but I want the best playing and sounding guitar
I really trust your guidance on this matter.
-Surfpunk

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Surfpunk,
Given the choice and $$$$ not being a factor, I'd absolutely jump on that black '64.
For the '64, you should look for the back neckplate being held on with 4 small screws - underneath the neckplate are the actual neck bolts. This was a '64 "feature". If it's just four straight neck screws going into the neck from the backplate, then it's an early '65. Though I can't see the serial number, I can make out that the pickup covers don't have the "circle 'R'" patent stamp meaning they are the original pickups. The Vibramute tailpiece is correct and it has the pre-'66 smooth knobs.
Again, neck binding can be repaired by any competent luthier. The axe has lovely rust patina on the screws - that's from sweat.. the thing has been played.
The blue '65 will play a bit better.. the 64's actually have narrower necks than the '65s. That choice is between you and your hands.

Tell you what though..
If you take one, please let me know about the other and its owner. Maybe he and I might do some business. You can PM me and keep it between us. I'd be interested in the prices asked, of course.

What else? -

Frets - see if you really need to replace the frets after you play the thing. If you do go for a fret job, DO NOT USE TYPICAL FENDER/GIBSON SIZE FRETS.
Use mandolin frets or Dunlop ACCU-FRET 6S/6340 Flat fret wire - NOTHING ELSE or you will ruin the guitar. Mosrites and big frets don't mix. A typically well executed fret job is a $300-$400 undertaking these days.

You can take stickers off a case with 'GOO BE GONE' - available at any hardware store - Home Depot, Wall-mart, etc.

As for sound? They will both sound pretty much the same. Mosley wound his pickups in batches. The difference between the guitars is 1 - 2 years maximum depending on the black model's serial number (at base of the neck).
So - the blue one may play a bit easier than the black one depending on your fingers and hand size. (Welcome to the small fingers club).

Hope I covered your concerns
J Mo'

Last edited: Feb 27, 2021 14:55:52

oh lordy that black one is special... (and i do not like black guitars)

Personally I'd leave the stickers on the case. It's part of the guitar's history. Imagine someone phoning up saying, "i think Nokie Edwards used to have that guitar, has it got a blah-de-blah sticker on the case?'.

Then you have to say, 'Uh not anymore', and there goes your provenance.

Just saying.

http://thewaterboarders.bandcamp.com/

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