I put clear nail polish on the height screws to keep them from moving. It works for me.
Rev
—Canadian Surf
sysmalakian:
Birthday month starts now!
362 days ago
diceophonic:
Vampiro Classics 2024 reissue
343 days ago
SabedLeepski:
Sunburn Surf Fest for some scorching hot surf music: https://sunb...
300 days ago
skeeter:
I know a Polish sound guy.
228 days ago
skeeter:
I know a Czech one too!
228 days ago
PatGall:
Surfybear metal settings
148 days ago
Pyronauts:
Happy Tanks-Kicking!
126 days ago
midwestsurfguy:
Merry Christmas!
95 days ago
sysmalakian:
HAPPY NEW YEAR!
88 days ago
SabedLeepski:
Surfin‘ Europe, for surf (related) gigs and events in Europe https://sunb...
49 days ago
#ShallowEnd is empty.
No polls at this time. Check out our past polls.
No contests at this time. Check out our past contests.
Joined: Feb 26, 2006 Posts: 3738 North Atlantic |
I put clear nail polish on the height screws to keep them from moving. It works for me. Rev —Canadian Surf |
Joined: Jun 28, 2017 Posts: 162 |
DrippinReverb wrote:
Exactly, which explains why these guitars need a new setup so often. revmike wrote:
Use non permanent Loctite as suggested above or the clear nail polish which is what I use as well. You can also wait until the bridge parts rust or 'gunk up' from sweat and palm muting. I dab nail polish on all those little screws until they stay put. ELZEB wrote:
For reasons explained above I would definitely advise against using any kind of lubricant as it will make matters worse. LordWellfleet wrote:
If you could tell just a little bit more I might be able to help you find it. The brightness is caused by the 1M pots (vol + tone) and the inherent design of JM pickups. Last edited: Apr 12, 2019 18:19:09 |
Joined: Sep 04, 2017 Posts: 401 |
Had a Squier VM Jag. Made sure all the saddle feet were touching the bridge plate, dabbed some clear nail polish to the screw tops and underneath, put on a set of 11's and no buzz. I also put tape around the two height adjustment posts so the bridge no longer floated and screwed the base flush against the body and raised the saddles which helped with the break angle. |
Joined: Jul 30, 2016 Posts: 853 |
Just got done replacing my high E string after it broke because the windings at the ball end were abraded by the vibrato fulcrum screwhead down there, which--despite the previous owner grinding them down flat--stuck up far enough to hit the strings. I countersunk the plate and put in a new flat headed screw and it should work now. Continue to be unimpressed with the Jazzmaster... But then I guess it's unfair of me to expect Fender to have fully worked the bugs out of this model, since it's been out such a short time. |
Joined: Jun 28, 2017 Posts: 162 |
Although I replaced the screw with a flatter version (under the low E, not the high e), I've noticed on another occasion that when adjusting the spring tension (the adjustment screw in the middle), the fulcrum sits slightly higher or lower. The other, most often mentioned, solution is to put the screws at the underside instead of on top. I do however, by default, put some solder on the windings of the unwound strings. Last edited: Apr 14, 2019 19:33:41 |
Joined: Jul 30, 2016 Posts: 853 |
Thought I'd update with some pics of the vibrato screw swap. Even with the flat headed one, the low E damn near touches. I wouldn't want to sacrifice the freedom to adjust the vibrato arm to the desired preload just to accommodate this stupid design flaw! The new screws aren't able to sit totally flush because the depth of the countersink is limited by the fact that the fulcrum piece is hardened steel. I used a HSS countersink bit but I didn't want to push things and try to force it into that piece so I settled for the screws sitting a bit proud. It works but just barely! The screws are 8-32, 3/8" long.
|
Joined: Jan 23, 2015 Posts: 105 |
You could try to grind down the screw rim a bit instead... If they are hot-dipped or chrome, they could corrode after that, but stainless (looks like it) would work. Last edited: Apr 24, 2019 15:42:06 |