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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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Gilette wrote:

Gravitational_wave_rider wrote:

j_flanders wrote:

Gravitational_wave_rider wrote:

All I get is HUM. Loud, obnoxious HUMMMMMMM....nothing but HUM.

No dry signal or any reverb at all? Because in that case another power supply isn't going to help and we need to check other things.

Thanks...I'll go back through it and check everything. I must be missing something. There is definitely no reverb or signal at all.

If you take some pictures of the pcb and the connectors we can have a look to see if we can solve this.

I appreciate that. Due to my work schedule, I won't be able to do that for a while. As soon as I get a day to play I will go back through and see if I can solve the problem. If I can't figure it out after trying some of the other suggestions here I will get back to you guys. Thanks to everyone for the advice...gives me some new perspectives.

In my never-ending project, I'm trying some of the different mods discussed here, and just wired up a rotary switch with 3 different caps for the color mod and did a C10 by wiring a switch to a 270pF cap in parallel. The color mod is interesting, but I'll need more time to play with it to see if it will be very useful. In contrast, the C10 mod really makes a noticeable difference that I think improves the sound overall - it certainly sounds fuller with the extra cap added in.

Now I've just go to add an LED to the reverb circuit and move on to all the other bells and whistles I'm cramming in.

Is it possible to balance the volume loss in this circuit? Does anyone have a modification for it? I have seen at the new Surfy Pedals they have a extra volume pot to adjust the volume of the signal after the reverb. Does somebody has any idea?

I'm not sure about the Surfy Bear but in the case of my vintage unit as well as the Gomez unit, a buffered pedal placed after the unit (in my case it's an EHX Soul Food with internal switch set to "buffer" mode... highly recommended) solves the tone / volume loss. Even if the pedal is OFF it still fixes the issue! and of course you could turn it on, with gain at zero, treble to taste, and volume knob set to boost a little if desired.

Robbin Henley (Men in Grey Suits HONOLULU)

https://www.facebook.com/Men-In-Grey-Suits-207897529235582/

www.meningreysuits.com

Hi guys,

Just looking for confirmation - I've built my Surfy Bear Reverb and it's working fine. Just built the cab for it using one of our local woods down here in Western Australia. I'm awaiting the arrival of my new 'drip switch'.
Question - so to make the drip switch work - I just need to solder in another 1/4 inch jack via a shielded cable in 'parallel' with the reverb in jack? That seems simple enough.
Just another quick one - If the reverb unit is 'off' no guitar signal will pass thru. Is that correct.
Regards, Kev
image

Yes, that's the way the circuit is designed - no signal passes through if the unit is turned off. Presumably that's the way the original Fender circuit worked. Of course, you could easily wire an on/off switch so that the guitar signal would bypass the reverb unit when it was off.

Hey, y'all!

So, I built the unit and I was just curious about whether it's supposed to be put in front of the rest of my pedalboard or just last in the pedal chain before the amp.

In the beginning was reverb

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCj--qQ5WXp7SWDWcJJOjoow?sub_confirmation=1

Page 106. Wow!

Reatavlos_88 wrote:

Hey, y'all!

So, I built the unit and I was just curious about whether it's supposed to be put in front of the rest of my pedalboard or just last in the pedal chain before the amp.

I think the best answer is to try it in different places and see what sounds best. But I expect that last in the pedal chain may be the most recommended, and alternatively you could put it in the effects loop if you have one.

Kev_McD -

I figured out a very simple way to use the Drip Switch with your Surfy Bear. Get a male to dual female RCA adapter. Plug the male side into the reverb pan return, the reverb "in" RCA from the surfybear board into one of the female jacks on the adapter, and use an RCA to 1/4" adapter to connect the Drip Switch to the other female jack.

I tested this with my SurfyBear today as seen in the attached photo, so I can confirm it works. Feel free to ignore the woodwork and rat's nest of wires inside said SurfyBear. What it lacks in looks it makes up in tone!

For a more elegant solution, wire a 1/4" jack in parallel with the board's reverb in RCA.

image

Last edited: Sep 25, 2018 23:48:11

edwardsand wrote:

Yes, that's the way the circuit is designed - no signal passes through if the unit is turned off. Presumably that's the way the original Fender circuit worked. Of course, you could easily wire an on/off switch so that the guitar signal would bypass the reverb unit when it was off.

Could anyone shed some light on how I might go about that? I'm pretty decent at soldering, but my electronics knowledge is lacking...

Here's a good web page describing true bypass wiring:
http://stinkfoot.se/archives/2233

That type of switching doesn't include the power to the circuit, but you may already have that built in some other way.

charlie_dont wrote:

edwardsand wrote:

Yes, that's the way the circuit is designed - no signal passes through if the unit is turned off. Presumably that's the way the original Fender circuit worked. Of course, you could easily wire an on/off switch so that the guitar signal would bypass the reverb unit when it was off.

Could anyone shed some light on how I might go about that? I'm pretty decent at soldering, but my electronics knowledge is lacking...

Pickup this switch from Fulltone https://store.fulltone.com/collections/accessories/products/fulltone-3pdt-footswitch-3pdt and I also used the true bypass with led in the link edwardsand posted. It's nice having the led indicator.

charlie_dont wrote:

edwardsand wrote:

Yes, that's the way the circuit is designed - no signal passes through if the unit is turned off. Presumably that's the way the original Fender circuit worked. Of course, you could easily wire an on/off switch so that the guitar signal would bypass the reverb unit when it was off.

Could anyone shed some light on how I might go about that? I'm pretty decent at soldering, but my electronics knowledge is lacking...

Pickup this switch from Fulltone https://store.fulltone.com/collections/accessories/products/fulltone-3pdt-footswitch-3pdt and I also used the true bypass with led in the link edwardsand posted. It's nice having the led indicator.

Thanks for the help fellas. I might need just a bit more info. So if I'm following the 3pdt scheme that was linked above, and referencing the surfy bear board layout here: http://surfybear.weebly.com/uploads/1/3/6/2/13625127/surfybear-jfet-reverb.pdf

Ground and +9v seem pretty self explanatory (J4).
Input and output go to the 1/4" jacks (J1 and J2), right?
Effect send and effect return go to... the RCAs (LS1 and MK1)?

For the last 4 connections, does it matter which side I connect to (center vs. ring)?

charlie_dont wrote:

Effect send and effect return go to... the RCAs (LS1 and MK1)?

They go to the input of the pcb and the output of the pcb. (the entire pcb+tank is the 'effect').

The switch either connects J1 and J2(input and output 1/4 jacks) to input and output of the pcb or, in bypass connects j1 to j2.

Last edited: Sep 26, 2018 13:04:25

j_flanders wrote:

The switch either connects J1 and J2(input and output 1/4 jacks) to input and output of the pcb or, in bypass connects j1 to j2.

Thanks, I think I finally got it.. the switch is effectively spliced into the leads between the jacks and board and the position of the switch is changing what is connected. Sometimes it takes me a minute...

Does it matter if the switch is wired to the ring or tip side of the jacks?

It does matter - The tip is the signal, and the ring is the ground. So the critical thing is proper routing of the signal through the switch to either the effect or bypassing it to the output jack.

Also, you can use the Fulltone switch linked above if you are looking for a footswitch, but you can also get a 3pdt toggle switch if you will be doing the switching by hand.

Perfect, thanks for all the help. I think I have the parts I need in the spares box... I'll report back when I have a chance to wire it up and test it.

charlie_dont wrote:

Thanks for the help fellas. I might need just a bit more info. So if I'm following the 3pdt scheme that was linked above, and referencing the surfy bear board layout here: http://surfybear.weebly.com/uploads/1/3/6/2/13625127/surfybear-jfet-reverb.pdf

Please note this schematic is old and not 100% correct!

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