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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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sublime40oz wrote:

2) the only rca cable i have handy is around 9 ft long, which is excessive for this project. Will this cause any issues or am i fine to use it?

Thanks!

While the cable will work, I'd shop around for a shorter, high-quality cable as you're likely to be losing some clarity from the excess length (especially if the cable quality is inferior). Details like that do matter in squeezing the best performance out of this kind of gear.

mike_fried wrote:

sublime40oz wrote:

2) the only rca cable i have handy is around 9 ft long, which is excessive for this project. Will this cause any issues or am i fine to use it?

Thanks!

While the cable will work, I'd shop around for a shorter, high-quality cable as you're likely to be losing some clarity from the excess length (especially if the cable quality is inferior). Details like that do matter in squeezing the best performance out of this kind of gear.

Okay, i'll pick up something shorter. Thanks!

You can compare it to using a shorter or longer guitar cable.
The transducer or pickup inside the reverb pan works identically to a guitar pickup (coil of wire + moving magnetic field, either the magnetised string or the magnet at the end of the spring)
The longer the cable, the higher the capacitive load, the more you shift the resonance peak of the frequency reponse to a lower frequency.
It takes quite a bit of capacitance (couple of nano Farads) for the difference to become noticeable.
I tried a 10ft cable once and couldn't really hear a difference compared to the short 1 foot rca cable.

There's actually a mod (the color mod) for the Surfy Bear which uses this effect to get different tones:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28840/

In the added soundclip I don't hear much of a difference when 2.2n is added but it becomes quite obvious with the next value.
You might even like it better with a longer cable...

Just to be clear: it does not roll off highs like a treble control usually does.
Here's a graph showing what happens:

image

Last edited: Jul 09, 2018 12:20:49

All true, but the length isn't the only factor unless you're comparing otherwise identical cables. As you know, cables of differing quality likely exhibit different per-foot capacitance and ESR. The difference can be pretty audible between a short high quality cable and a long cheapie.

Finally I'v completed my build!

Imperfect look, but it does the job and sounds drippy. I put a reverb pan in a cardboard box along with some bubble wrap to carry around (I plan to mount it under a pedalboard).

For future builders: ALWAYS use good heavily shielded RCA cables for connecting the reverb pan. When testing with cheap ones, I got a LOT of noise (not like 60hz cycle hum from bad power supply, more like high frequency static from a radio).

image

Last edited: Jul 11, 2018 08:26:17

Here's a sound sample. Chain: Guitar -> Surfy Bear -> S-gear (Wayfarer Amp). Please don't kick me for playing Smile

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_CXBZSlGvX2RIwskvZu2iyDxtrfRsbUY

Ive finally got the kit put together. I have to say im surprised by how easy it was to get this up and running. I have limited soldering experience so I figured there was a chance i'd have to spend some time troubleshooting, but it just worked flawlessly as soon as i plugged everything in. Next step is wiring up a switch and lamp, but I wanted to make sure I had the basics working before I got too adventurous.

image
image

Now that im up and running with the basic build i'd like to wire up a switch and lamp, wire up a dry kill / full wet switch and add a switchable c10 mod.

I think im pretty clear on the wiring for the switch and lamp, but can anyone explain what is going on in this diagram for me?

http://surfybear.weebly.com/blog/switchable-c10-capacitor-mod-for-fet-reverb

I'd love to see a picture of this actually wired up.

Im also wondering if the kill dry / full wet switch is as simple as wiring up a spst switch to the middle lug of the mix pot or if there is more to it.

C10 mod:

Unless you want to reduce the bass instead of increasing it (which is what the c10 mod is all about) there is no need for those 'cuts'. You can simply add caps in parallel to the one that is already there to get a more bassy or full sounding reverb.
Some discussion about it here:
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/24295/?page=85

Kill dry mod:
There is some discussion about it here:
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=117665.0

Color mod:
While you're at it you might want to try that one as well.
https://surfguitar101.com/forums/topic/28840/

I don't have any means to draw something right now, but if you do it, I will comment on it or correct it. ;)

Last edited: Jul 17, 2018 16:55:27

Heres what ive got so far for a kill dry mod diagram. Its basically a template at this point. If you can steer me in the right direction that would be great and i'll update the diagram.

image

All pot lug numberings on the Surfy Bear schematics are wrong.
According to the schematic we need to switch lug 3, the left one, as you had drawn.
But since the schematic is wrong we need to switch lug 1, which is the one on the right.

You need a single pole ON/ON switch by the way.

How are you going to do the mixing? I'm still using my Boss LS2 peda but I'm planning to add some small active op amp based mixer inside the pedal.

image

image

image

You could use on ON/OFF switch instead of ON/ON as well:
This way you switch the dry signal to ground (muted) and the rest stays the same as above (mixer becomes volume pot for wet).
With the ON/ON switch the dry side is left hanging/disconnected.

image

Last edited: Jul 18, 2018 17:09:49

Thank you so much for your help here! Im running it through the loop of my line 6 helix, which means i can easily swap between pre or post preamp. For post preamp stuff I will basically be running a parallel clean signal and mixing within the helix. Where is a good place to connect the ground signal to the switch do you think?

sublime40oz wrote:

Where is a good place to connect the ground signal to the switch do you think?

Any ground connection is good. Connections on the pcb that have the upside down T-symbol, sleeves of the input/output jacks, the metal case, etc. Whatever is nearby and is easy to solder to.

Last edited: Jul 19, 2018 03:16:33

First of all a warm THANK YOU to all who are helping and sharing technical informations.
I got so much help crawling thru this thread for my own built. Wich is almost finished.

Also i have seen a lot of super cool builds here and it's a shame they get not more attention.

I find it a bit difficult to discuss and chat about the builts and tech stuff in only one thread. I think all those builts deserve an extra thread or some other place to be shared and discussed.

What do you think?

Best wishes and keep cool in those hot summery days

Hang loose
Elrondo

So I ordered my Surfybear and Surfy Trem kits a few weeks ago and this week I've finally gotten the chance to start putting things together (still a bit of time before I have the chassis/case to house them in). But after soldering alsmot everything to the two boards and testing them out, I began to wonder if I've done things right, horribly wrong, or just different.

Specifically I soldered the wires on the backs of the boards, i.e., I pushed the wire through and then soldered it on the back, whereas most of the other builds have done the opposiite (threaded through the back and soldered in the front.

I figure wiring it this way will be reliable enough and I'm happy to mod the guitar this way. Likewise, I doubt it has any other impact on the guitar. But I must ask to make it clear: will attaching wiring on one side significantly impact the tone compared to attaching on the other side?

BTW - The Surfy Trem kit sound great in test mode.

Last edited: Aug 02, 2018 22:49:54

There shouldn't be any impact on tone, as long as the solder points are good (shiny, adequate coverage, no loose strands etc.)
There are mechanical dis-advantages to your method of having the soldering from the back:
1. after the solder point, inside the hole, there would be a gap between exposed wire and the hole's edges, that could lead to breakage after the wires have been wiggled enough.
2. If 1. happens, troubleshooting will be harder since it will require removing the PCB from it's installation in order to eyeball the connections.

If it works it works, until it doesn't. Before you house it, that's the easiest time to get it right!

Elrondo wrote:

I find it a bit difficult to discuss and chat about the builts and tech stuff in only one thread. I think all those builts deserve an extra thread or some other place to be shared and discussed.

I thought about that too, there's a need for sure, and while I agree in spirit, it would be improbable to implement. How many sub categories will be enough? Looking back at the thread, it's mostly 'show and ask and learn more', not 'show and tell'. It seems there is too much bleed between any categories we might think to divide this thing into - tech support, mods, new and old builds, science... And I would check all of them anyway...

There's a page here, showcasing some builds.

Last edited: Aug 03, 2018 03:58:17

Thanks for the insights, Ariel. I'll double check all the soldering before final installation, which won't be until next week at the earliest. I've got a somewhat complex build planned, so there's bound to be a lot of re-adjustments along the way - I just don't want to go through the pain of de-soldering and re-soldering everything on both boards.

Ariel wrote:

I find it a bit difficult to discuss and chat about the builts and tech stuff in only one thread. I think all those builts deserve an extra thread or some other place to be shared and discussed.

I thought about that too, there's a need for sure, and while I agree in spirit, it would be improbable to implement. How many sub categories will be enough? Looking back at the thread, it's mostly 'show and ask and learn more', not 'show and tell'. It seems there is too much bleed between any categories we might think to divide this thing into - tech support, mods, new and old builds, science... And I would check all of them anyway...

There's a page here, showcasing some builds.

Maybe we could just keep this as the technically oriented thread (show and ask and learn more) and have a separate show and tell thread. There have been several shorter threads where people have presented their builds, and while that tumblr is nice to see pics, a thread allows you to get more details and have some interaction.

Hey y'all!

I've been lurking for a while, but this is my first post. I've got some Gibbs tanks that I plan to use for 2 separate SurfyBear units. At least one will have a tremolo circuit in it.

Seeing the new "all metal" SurfyBear pedal from Bjorn had me searching for a metal enclosure that I could use. After exhausting all the Hammond, Bud, etc. style enclosures, I started looking elsewhere for options. I just ordered a couple of vintage safety deposit boxes that I'll try out as enclosures. I might have to add bracing where the switches will be, but we'll see. Most safety deposit boxes are ~21" long, with all kinds of variance in the other dimensions.

Here are the ones I ordered.

There should be plenty of room for all the components while still remaining somewhat stomp-friendly if I choose that format. Might just go with toggle switches. We'll see! Just wanted to offer that as an option. I'll keep ya updated as I build mine! (Once I can afford the circuits.)

The Safety deposit box looks like a great idea. I went with the common Harbor Freight toolbox. I may get one of these. Just a question for all the Surfy Bear experts out there: My knobs seem to turn in odd eliptical patterns instead of a nice circular shape. I think it's because the metal on the toolbox got bent out of shape when I drilled the holes for the pots and so each pot pokes through at an odd angle. What can I do to get the knobs to rotate more perfectly?

Thanks

BasilK wrote:

My knobs seem to turn in odd eliptical patterns instead of a nice circular shape.

This happens when you use knobs with a set screw on a pot with a round shaft instead of one with a D-shaft.
The center of the knob is not in line with the center of the shaft, giving you that eliptical pattern.

I have the same 'problem' because I used chicken head knobs and the ones I bought were with a set screw.
The push-on version wouldn't have this 'problem' but then the diameter, number of splines etc must match.

I bought the knobs before the surfy bear kit arrived so I couldn't measure the diameter, shaft height, number of splines etc., so to make sure they would at least fit, I bought the set screw versions...

Last edited: Aug 07, 2018 11:38:20

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