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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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Elrondo wrote:

futilitarian wrote:

Thanks Elrondo. I was trying to use some stuff I already have.

At a closer look it seems to me the jack could be stereo. I see 3 solder pins. So one has to be ground, one the tip and one the part behind the tip.
Ground of the 2 boards go to ground of the jack. Tip and the other to each hots of the boards.

Dang it's hard to describe technical contents in a foreign language...lol

You described it perfectly Elrondo. Sorry for the late reply... I just saw this.

Looks great stratotoneuser! I love the scrap metal chassis.

@futilitarian
No prob. I hope you got your verb running.

@ALL
Short question:
I will hard wire the trem and reverb.
Signalpath trem > reverb > amp or
reverb > trem > amp ?
Normaly using pedals i would set the reverb at the last position before the amp.

Have a nice WM soccer/football/ Fussball weekend.

Both can sound good.
Reverb after tremolo will tame the choppiness and smooth it out somewhat.
It might also sound a bit more natural because in real life reverb comes last.
On Fender amps though tremolo comes after the reverb.

Unless you insist on being Fenderishly authentic, maybe try both ways for some time before you decide to hardwire. Or use a 'pedal order switch' in your enclosure.

Last edited: Jun 16, 2018 14:19:10

j_flanders wrote:

Both can sound good.
Reverb after tremolo will tame the choppiness and smooth it out somewhat.
It might also sound a bit more natural because in real life reverb comes last.
On Fender amps though tremolo comes after the reverb.

Unless you insist on being Fenderishly authentic, maybe try both ways for some time before you decide to hardwire. Or use a 'pedal order switch' in your enclosure.

Thank you for responding.
I should throw a coin... ggg

I think i'm going for the switching solution or a kind of patch bank to be free in my decision at any time.

Last edited: Jun 16, 2018 14:27:01

@Elrondo
It is indeed working great. I went ahead and bought a vintage style Fender Rev/Vib footswitch with RCA jacks.

You're keeping your options open. Look forward to seeing your finished build.

Here's my Surfy Bear. I put it in a plain aluminium enclosure and painted it. I don't have an enclosure for the reverb tank yet. It sure is a great reverb pedal.

image

That's great Fauripaul. The tiki mask and volcano are perfect.

Thanks futilitarian.
I have gotten a kick out of reading all the great info here. It saved me a ton of time reading through "how to proceed" and gave me a heads up about successes and mistakes. I built another cabinet today and it went faster about three hours. (no guts just the box, it's ready to tolex now)

Mix hum ( low frequency hum)
I'm getting some low hum with the mix turned up all the way. If I put my hand near the return rca, the hum increases. I might flip the tank 180 and see if that helps. I have some gibson braided wire and switchcraft rca parts. Maybe make a return cable from braided cable.

Anyone have similar hum problems?

I bought the power supply at the thrift store for a $1. I don't know if that is the problem? The same power supply I'm using is going for $10 on ebay.

I looked it up, yes DA, probably power supply.

Led_Zebra wrote:

Thank you SurfHusker! 1/8 should be really common and i should have options.

straight from the Surfy Industries pdf.

"Remove the protection foil from the isolation pad. Important: this tape isolates the MOSFETs from the chassis (ground)"

i think i used the word "tape" earlier, but i meant the "foil" or film that covers the tape.

so in layers
1 foil
2 tape
3 MOSFETs

the blue looking foil gets removed. the white tape remains. or per SurfHusker i could just bypass the foil removal and punch through.

Just to be clear, I did remove the foil from the tape before mounting the circuit board.

bjoish wrote:

Exactly!
I am sorry, the instruction text is not clear enough.
We need to improve this!

Hi Bjorn, Led_Zebra brought up another good point. When I was assembling my unit, I was also unclear as to how I was supposed to mount the circuit board to the chassis using the screw provided in the kit. Was the adhesive in the white tape supposed to be sufficient to hold the circuit board in place along with the screw that came in the kit? I went ahead and used a longer bolt (1/8") along with a nut and washer because just the screw alone didn't seem like it would secure the board in place well enough.

(By the way the Surfy Bear sounds fantastic, and I want to thank you for providing an affordable way to get the classic Fender reverb sound. Plus it was actually a lot of fun to build. :))

Thanks SurfHusker (last part of this post disappeared...)
Yes, you are right. Many people replace that screw. I think that’s an advantage with this kit, it can be used many different ways. And depending on the application additional parts might be needed.
It’s amazing to see the creativity in this thread !!!

Last edited: Jun 17, 2018 16:17:10

SurfHusker wrote:

I went ahead and used a longer bolt (1/8") along with a nut and washer.

I did exactly the same. I used a hammond box and the screw didn't seem appropriate.

This build looks fantastic !

Fauripaul wrote:

image

Hi There,

Past month I've been building the SurfyBear FET Reverb.
Since the PCB has been unavailable for a while I decided to design my own PCB. (sorry, not gonna share it).
I got everything working on breadboard... as we all know the Mosfets get really hot. My question is... how big do the heatsinks have to be?
Right now I'm using these:
https://www.conrad.nl/p/strengkoellichaam-85-kw-l-x-b-x-h-375-x-29-x-12-mm-to-220-tru-components-tc-v6560x-203-1586603

They're specified as 8,5 K/W heat resistance and I would estimate the total heatsink air contact surface around about 55cm2.

They do get really hot. After about 5 minutes I can't touch them for more then about 5 seconds.

So I'm wondering if it's enough.

If not I got an alternative... but that would mean I'd have to tweak my PCB layout a bit more.

Thanks,

Jan

Last edited: Jun 19, 2018 04:50:14

Here's a couple images of what I'm working on:

image
image

Last edited: Jun 19, 2018 04:52:27

Judging by the old version, pretty big...

image

These look even bigger:
http://stompage.juansolo.co.uk/images/tank-2.jpg

Last edited: Jun 19, 2018 04:57:03

j_flanders wrote:

Judging by the old version, pretty big...

Hi J_flanders...

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, I've seen pictures of the heatsinks. I'd say they're not that much bigger then the ones I'm using.... maybe my question should be.... how hot to the touch are the heatsinks allowed to be?

I know the absolute maximum T junction for the mosfets = 175 Celsius. That would be the maximum internal temperature... at the point where you're gonna destroy them.
The maximum stable operating temperature will be a bit lower than that.

Maybe someone knows specifications of heatsink thermal properties?

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