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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The Surfy Bear Fet Reverb

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I am glad it worked out! Smile

Interesting. I got some raspyness at volume so I backed off the gain pot a little. The sound became ...'Crystaline'.
Being used to the FRV pedal, through the SurfyBear, the sound of my instruments are MUCH clearer, and shows off the tone for which I built them. The attack is pronounced and right up front. When double picking, you almost can't tell there's any reverb at all. It's not at the back of the hall anymore. Is that a characteristic of the accusonic pan I'm using? Do y'all find different pans change that attack character?

image

https://www.facebook.com/gnarlymen/

https://gnarlymen.bandcamp.com/

Definitely. I have a vintage accutronics in mine. I tried a Mod for a while but it was to dark for me and the accutronics has a more complex response I think.

Hi bjoish, sorry for the late reply.

I get the dry signal and the springs splashing if they're hit but that's it. No reverb mixed in. If I turn the mix knob the dry signal just gets a bit quieter.

Hi Aldersea,
have you seen the FAQ page?
https://www.surfyindustries.com/faq

On the picture below you can see that your problem is the green path.
The most usual things causing this problem are:
- MOSFETs not isolated from ground.
- Bad soldering joints.
- RCA cables.
Have you checked these things?

https://www.surfyindustries.com/images/faq3.png

Last edited: Mar 22, 2018 16:26:44

RCA cables are ok, that I am sure of. When I turned the unit on the mosfets were definitely isolated from ground, I just removed the tape for re-soldering ease. I guess that just leaves the soldering job? I’m a beginner when it comes to soldering, but I’m kind of able to see when it’s bad. I’ve checked and re-liquified the solders several times already :/

There seem to be a problem with the board.
Please go the surfyindustries website and request technical support. We will solve this problem!

Request sent! Thanks for your help Cheers

image
image

Very pleased with my latest build: a trem/verb combo. A befriended designer did the artwork. Extra features: dual mix setting, cap switch, wet/dry push-pull dwell pot for studio use and an order switch (trem into verb or vv). Thank you Surfy Industries for your fantastic designs and products, they rock!

Mischa, looks very nice. Smile

Incredible looking, Mischa! That's a box of goodness right there.

Ok ok Mischa, you are hired! ;)
Fantastic job man, really one of the best looking and most functional designs.

Thanks for sharing.

Lorenzo "Surfer Joe" Valdambrini
(www.surfmusic.net)

Saweet! Doesn't make it easy for Lorenzo and Bjorn to sell finished pedals when something like this is homemade! Incredible build!

The Kahuna Kings

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Kahuna-Kings/459752090818447

https://thekahunakings.bandcamp.com/releases

Last edited: Mar 28, 2018 20:01:24

Thanks a lot guys! Sometimes OCD does pay off Wink Most of the credits should go to my friend Martin Draax, the graphic designer.

I have a dead '70's "Reverb/Echo" unit at home that would make a good case, and a couple of reverb tanks that may be right. I think it's time to do a build!

All opinions expressed by this poster are well thought out and based on actual experience and/or scientific experimentation, except for those which are knee-jerk reactions or good sounding fantasies.

-

Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 13:30:52

Are there any specifications or personal experiences for heatsinks? I'd rather mount heatsinks rather than screw to chassis.

Two get pretty hot in a matter of seconds, third is ok to touch. I have these simple TO220 heatsinks (should be 22 K/W).

image

I'd rather overdo it in case it stays powered for hours on end but I don't know what to aim for. I don't want to have to replace them.

otaznik wrote:

Are there any specifications or personal experiences for heatsinks? I'd rather mount heatsinks rather than screw to chassis.

Two get pretty hot in a matter of seconds, third is ok to touch. I have these simple TO220 heatsinks (should be 22 K/W).

I'd rather overdo it in case it stays powered for hours on end but I don't know what to aim for. I don't want to have to replace them.

You might want to get a bigger pair of heatsinks. The original surfy bear had a pair like this: (thanks Ariel)

image

I think they're between 14 and 17 K/Watt.

Yes, since the driver is a class A amplifier (just as the 6G15) the MOSFETs get quite hot. This is why I normally recommend using the chassis an efficient heatsink. The MOSFETs are specified for operation upto 175 deg.C, but I recommend a bigger pair of heatsinks than shown on your picture.

Hello! I've been lurking in this thread for a couple of months and am in the process of assembling a Surfy Bear unit of my own, which I'm going to install in a Harbor Freight tool box. I've been studying this thread and practicing soldering and I think I'm ready for the final assembly.

However I have one question (and I hope it's not too dumb). I drilled the holes in the tool box last week and put all the switches and jacks and knobs in to make sure everything fit, but I noticed that when I put in the potentiometers for dwell, mixer, and tone they all have a tab on one side that makes them fit unevenly.

What is the best way to install these? Should I just get more nuts to thread over the tabs?

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