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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink The String thread

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I've been using these on my Jaguarillo

image

They feel and sound great but that big unwound G does not like to stay in tune. Does anyone else have this problem or could this be an inotation or tuner issue?

Does it keep slipping, or does it not intonate in the first place? I have EB Cobalt 11s on my Jag, (FWIW, it has a Mastery Bridge on it), and I've been thinking about trying a set of the 12s.

This interests me, so I'll be following this.

-Cheers, Clark-

-Less Paul, more Reverb-

It inotates just fine upon initial tuning, and up and down the neck. I think its just slipping.

FWIW, it didn't have this problem when I had .10s on it

Maybe try a wound G next time?

Is the G string not sitting in the nut slot properly? If it looks like it is sitting properly, try some pencil lead in there. If it isn't sitting well, gotta get it sized properly.

I ordered a set of Pyramid flats and this came with them on a slip of paper from the seller.

"Notice about round core strings. Please be sure to tune the strings to pitch before cutting off excess wire to prevent strings from slipping or unraveling."

Has anyone had this happen?

The Mystery Men?
El Capitan and The Reluctant Sadists
SSS Agent #31

No, absolutely not. I've never had a round core unravel and strings really don't slip at the tuner.

Amazing how few tuning issues I have despite my judicious vibrato use, lack of a roller bridge, round core strings, nickel strings, non-locking tuners.

Never.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

I've had a chance to play the GTS roundcore 12's on my Jag (12-52) for a bit. (After waiting a month for them, apparently Gabriel had an issue with some delivery of bulk wire or something.) Tiny tweak on the truss rod from the 11's & the guitar was happy. Only guitar I grabbed for the last few days; I then did another "pull-in" and they stay in tune very nicely.

They feel great and the 12's gave back that extra meat I want out of a Jag in the first place. They are especially balanced 5th thru 3rd strings which I REALLY appreciate for the trad Eliminator-ish stuff this Jag really shines at. Guitar-tank-amp, elegant in its simplicity & works like my ear says it should.

The only verdict pending will be to see how long they last. If they can outlast a couple of sets of the others then they're a winner & worth the money. It would be nice to find someone who stocks them regularly in stock, if such a thing exists - even a music shop who would mail some if they have them. Gabriel is a small operation it seems when ordering direct & making strings is certainly enough to handle.

Pretty nice; thanks Jake.
Smile

Now awaiting my Roto purples to try on the Strat, since I just got the neck back from a small repair and had my guy do a dress & level while at it.

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

Richard wrote:

I ordered a set of Pyramid flats and this came with them on a slip of paper from the seller.

"Notice about round core strings. Please be sure to tune the strings to pitch before cutting off excess wire to prevent strings from slipping or unraveling."

Has anyone had this happen?

Yes, not with Pyramids or TIs (thank goodness) but with other "lesser" round-core strings. I quickly learned to put a right-angle bend using pliers at the point they enter the tuner post before cutting them to length. Better safe than sorry...

Last edited: Nov 25, 2017 12:03:13

Oh, I think I misinterpreted the message. "tune the strings to pitch" to me "to pitch" meant the pitch you want the guitar to settle at. Really, this means "put some tension on the strings after you insert it into the tuning peg before you clip the string off".

With top load Fender tuners, you don't have a choice. And with 'traditional' tuners, why would you clip them off before you wrapped it around the post.

For years now I'm with Pyramid Pure Nickel Flatwounds (*On my Jag and JM), .013-56 or .012-52. They last so long, and sound so good for all their lives with almost no falloff, and feel so fine. I truly love these strings.
So my point being, is there even a point for me to try something else Confused
What am I expecting to get with flats that cost less?

Last edited: Mar 08, 2018 11:28:09

Ariel wrote:

For years now I'm with Pyramid Pure Nickel Flatwounds (*On my Jag and JM), 12-56 or 13-52. They last so long, and sound so good for all their lives with almost no falloff, and feel so fine. I truly love these strings.
So my point being, is there even a point for me to try something else Confused
What am I expecting to get with flats that cost less?

You can expect shorter life from both the strings and your frets. Almost all of the cheaper flatwounds are wound with stainless steel instead of nickel, and are much harder on your frets. IMO, the only rival that Pyramid flats have is TI Swings, which are somewhat more flexible in a given gauge due to their thinner core diameters. The possible downside of that is that the TI's dynamic response is somewhat softer ("spongier" pick attack). I prefer Pyramids on my Fenders and TIs on my hollowbodies.

Last edited: Mar 08, 2018 11:37:37

Ariel wrote:

For years now I'm with Pyramid Pure Nickel Flatwounds (*On my Jag and JM), .013-56 or .012-52. They last so long, and sound so good for all their lives with almost no falloff, and feel so fine. I truly love these strings.
So my point being, is there even a point for me to try something else Confused
What am I expecting to get with flats that cost less?

Pyramid and Thomastik are the only two sets that are great. They share construction of the same materials. I love both Pyramid and Thomastik, they are pretty interchangeable. Pyramids have slightly more tension to them, but not much. Both last for at least a year. I've got some on for two years and they feel new enough. They are both round core and nickel.

Chromes, Rotosounds, other flatwounds are hex core construction and made of stainless steel. They have high tension and just don't have as great a sound.

Thanks Gentlemen! So I'll stick with what I know and love, which is also considered the best. Hard choice, right...
For a non-player like me, once a year per change at most, that's a good investment.
Good point about the frets Mike, never considered that.

Last edited: Mar 08, 2018 12:09:51

I like to try new strings from time to time but i normally play 11-49 d'addarios with a wound 3rd on my strat. i'm not sure if it's how it's set up but unwound Gs just sound really off to me.

I'm Jake G and I approve this message

From what I've read, Strat pickups were originally designed with a wound G in mind, so a plain G sounds out of balance with the other strings.

I agree pyramids are a nice long lasting string. They are designed to oscillate less to help limit buzz and lessen squeak when sliding. Having a tight oscillation means achievable lower string action and reduced bridge height which translates to lower string tension and the possibility to run heavier duty strings without white knuckles or sore fingers.

With all my Fender guitars I seem to go around in circles trying to set up and invariably end up with a string action compromise. Fender's bolt on neck often causes a slight bump behind the 12th fret and nearly all necks suffer a kind of mathematical fault - see compound radius "cylinder vs cone". Now Fender are flirting with compound radius I think it's a good idea to take an interest, most of what we hear is about the benefits of comfort and string bending but there is a third factor of near zero neck relief without buzz. I'd say that's good news for Fender players especially those who prefer heavy duty strings.

crumble wrote:

With all my Fender guitars I seem to go around in circles trying to set up and invariably end up with a string action compromise. Fender's bolt on neck often causes a slight bump behind the 12th fret and nearly all necks suffer a kind of mathematical fault - see compound radius "cylinder vs cone". Now Fender are flirting with compound radius I think it's a good idea to take an interest, most of what we hear is about the benefits of comfort and string bending but there is a third factor of near zero neck relief without buzz. I'd say that's good news for Fender players especially those who prefer heavy duty strings.

Funny I always seemingly have this problem and think it's a fret needing filing but rather a inherent design flaw. Perhaps that's what they intended to fix with the introduction of the three bolt necks? Seems more prevalent with round wound strings. Makes sense seeing as the general fender guitar designs were developed around flat wound strings.

Guitarist of The Sea Gees! A group I'm working on putting together, more to come.

I've never seen the bump behind the 12th fret. And why would it be the 12th fret and not the fret where it makes contact to the body?

Supros were bad about that bump.

-

Last edited: Feb 02, 2024 12:50:48

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