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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink 6G15 build

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I thought about it. I'm going to do something along the lines of the Hoffman 6G15 & Sluckeys' Revibe. It looks like they don't have hum issues.
I'll see from there.

Working on the layout.
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Making sure the tank ; mounted behind the front pannel ; will not touch the Power Transformer.
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I'm not set on the orientation of the tube sockets.
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The soundtrack of my afternoon.
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Tomorrow is drilling day.

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Chassis is drilled. Well almost, I have to drill and thread the 4 holes that will hold down the chassis to the cab.
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I kind of screwed up the holes of the 9 pin sockets. I should have checked it; I thought the sockets will be mounted inside the chassis. I should have known it because they're the same I used for my previous build.

I do the same mistakes when I make pastries. I try a recipe and everything go fine. And the 2nd time I don't follow closely the recipe, "I got it I've done this before" getting cocky and screwing things up.

I'm not mad because it will not show.
I also went a bit to deep for the light jewel with the step drill. Once again it's not really showing. Big Grin

In the meantime I got the cabinet back from my uncle.
He was in charge of routing the edges. When I told him about it he was pretty confident, he has bought a brand new router...
I knew he has good and bad days, and I asked him he wanted some wood planks to make some trials and he told me he had some.

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You guessed it, he butchered it. No It's fixable but dayum, I made a way better cabinet for my Surfy Bear only using files... Oh well.

Last edited: May 24, 2017 15:49:25

^^ I tried to add a small space between my introduction and the pics to create a bit of a suspens but this also failed. Laughing

Every side of the cab is fucked up Sad

You need a steady hand, a decent plunge-router, and a razor-sharp routing bit to be competent with a hand router. Looks like your uncle didn't have any of that

If you have access to a bench sanding belt rig, or a decent disc sander, you can get the surfaces and edges flat (without sanding all the wood away, and without taking the roundover off). This will reduce the timber thickness slightly. Then re-rout the over the top of the roundover. Finish off any slight imperfections with a further light sand.

Leave your uncle out of it.

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Face Palm Hang in there, man!

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

You fit right in here! Smile There's been lots on this forum that didn't get done right the 1st time. People keep working till they do. Smile Pause, regroup, continue. Time is of no consequence on some projects. Smile

tubeswell wrote:

Leave your uncle out of it.

Yep, another lesson learned. Laughing

His router is fine. It's a brand new Bosch, I've seen people using it properly on Youtube. He had the right bit too. He just totally dropped the ball.

He was trying to find excuses telling me "your wood wasn't dry enough" "I'm not used to this router"... What pisses me off it's the fact that he was willing to do it. I didn't push him. I trusted him; to an extent; but I was far from thinking he would fail like this.

Like I said he has his ups and downs but as he gets older, it's getting mostly downs. I think he would have put more effort into it if it had been for his own purpose.

I don't have a disc sander. I have some wood mastic that should fix it.

warioblast wrote:

I don't have a disc sander. I have some wood mastic that should fix it.

Pine is soft and can often respond fairly well to steam recovery of dents

Wet a towel, and cover the dented timber with it. Heat up a clothes iron to maximum temperature and press it firmly onto the towel over the dented area. The steam reaction should cause the dented/crushed timber fibres to swell and absorb the moisture, restoring the timber somewhat to pre-dented position. Its not always a perfect remedy, but its worth a shot before you attempt filling and sanding - particularly worth a shot if its pine.

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Last edited: May 24, 2017 20:05:23

I tried that wet towel & iron trick on my telecaster neck a couple of years ago but the dents remained.
I will give it try. Thanks for the reminder. Wink

I've had the same thing with the bass wood body of my sons guitar. The wood was to soft and the wheel left a long mark on the side of the body. An iron will do wonders I can tell you! Don't worry. Just don't let anyone touch it from now on.

If you're not gonna re-route it using Ttubeswell's method,
you can achieve very good results (especially with pine) with simple polishing papers and a nice big straight wood block. A few points of adhesive spray. For consistent angle all along the bevels, the same block with a rounded cutout, like so:
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Or maybe re-consider the Tolex option? It's amazing at hiding this kind of stuff, and I bet you could find really nice colors and textures, maybe even combine some.
You have our complete moral support! Cool

Last edited: May 25, 2017 10:08:00

So the wet towel & iron trick remove all the small dents. The 4 grooves running along the sides (see my last pic) are almost completely gone.
Still a lot of work ahead of me, I 'm thinking it will need at least 3 passes of wood mastic to smooth everything out. I was going to write the biggest labour will go on fixing the notches near the corners, but like I said every side is jacked up.
The thought of building another cab crossed my mind. The wood mastic nearly cost as much as the piece of pine. This is my worst case scenario.
I'd rather build another cab than going with tolex or tweed.

Threading holes on the bottom of the chassis is a no go. I made an attempt with a small piece of aluminum and it didn't felt secure. I had already looked for cage nuts at my local shops without success.
I went through my grandpa's stach of rusty bolts 'n nuts and didn't find what I was looking for. I will put 4 long nuts that will go through the whole height of the chassis, so I will be able to bolt them from the top.
I need to make sure there will be no pots or jacks in the way.

Thx yall for the support Wink

Cab after 1st pass of wood mastic
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After 2nd pass
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3rd pass is drying.
I started populating the chassis. Wink

Last edited: May 27, 2017 10:19:05

Lookin' good - nice work, or maybe "reclamation." Thumbs Up

Wes
SoCal ex-pat with a snow shovel

DISCLAIMER: The above is opinion/suggestion only & should not be used for mission planning/navigation, tweaking of instruments, beverage selection, or wardrobe choices.

Currently at 5 passes, mainly working on the corners and inside angles. I'm almost there.
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Last edited: May 29, 2017 12:08:44

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Should I twist the wires from the OT Confused

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