AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 05:59 PM
Ive researched this one but I dont have an answer...
I have a Body of a 2010 Jaguar classic Player in red with the poly clear
coat from Fender...Nothing touched yet.
Can I paint Nitro Based paint over the poly clear coat without some
mad reaction or does a Primer have to be put on first ?
Can Nitro Lacquer go over this fender paint or do I have to strip the Poly off?
Im basically building A Jaguar from parts and the Classic player body
was affordable from Ebay...Im going with the All Parts Neck and RI Parts.
Any Input would help
Pete Analog-Surf
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Matt22
Joined: Feb 15, 2007
Posts: 2813
Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 06:10 PM
I'd strip it and those are a bitch to strip. Whatever you do, strip it instead of sanding it. When people sand these finishes, they often end up taking off too much and making the body thinner.
— Matt "tha Kat" Lentz
Skippy and the Skipjacks: 2018-
Skippyandtheskipjacks.net
https://www.facebook.com/skippyandtheskipjacks
Otto and the Ottomans: 2014-2015
The Coconauts surf band: 2009-2014
www.theamazingcoconauts.com
Group Captain and the Mandrakes 2013
http://www.gcmband.com/
The Surfside IV: 2002-2005, 2008-2009
the Del-Vamps: 1992-1999, 2006-2007
http://www.dblcrown.com/delvamps.html
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jonny_flatbottle
Joined: Aug 29, 2011
Posts: 173
Massachusetts
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 06:11 PM
I painted my CAR Jaguar with nitro from ReRanch with no problems.
I also used the nitro primer after scuffing the original paint with a scotch brite pad.
the only issue is when it chips, you're gonna see the original paint looking back at you!
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 06:26 PM
Ive painted A squire telecaster last year with some No drips no Runs
wal mart paint and then painted some clear coat on it that reacted
with the Light blue and yellowed...Boy did I look like a hero as it
instantly started looking old...But boy did almost soil myself when it started reacting...Ive done an old Cort strat in Rustolium Sea Foam green..
But I want to do this jaguar Correctly.
I stopped at the local Auto store...Man are the colors awful these days.
Im looking to paint this Jaguar Body in Surf Green or Sonic Blue ?
You input is helping me...
Pete
Analog-Surf
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Matt22
Joined: Feb 15, 2007
Posts: 2813
Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 06:32 PM
It all depends on what you really want to do. There are easy ways and then there are expensive ways. If you're looking to do a pro job, you'll need to strip it. If you just want it to look good, you can do it the same way you did the tele.
— Matt "tha Kat" Lentz
Skippy and the Skipjacks: 2018-
Skippyandtheskipjacks.net
https://www.facebook.com/skippyandtheskipjacks
Otto and the Ottomans: 2014-2015
The Coconauts surf band: 2009-2014
www.theamazingcoconauts.com
Group Captain and the Mandrakes 2013
http://www.gcmband.com/
The Surfside IV: 2002-2005, 2008-2009
the Del-Vamps: 1992-1999, 2006-2007
http://www.dblcrown.com/delvamps.html
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jonny_flatbottle
Joined: Aug 29, 2011
Posts: 173
Massachusetts
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Posted on Nov 06 2011 08:04 PM
it's fine to spray over the original paint.
scuffed, it acts as a primer giving your paint something to adhere to.
the problem with nitro is first, a spray can costs about $15.
it takes forever to dry and you will need to wet sand it when it's ready!
then clear it and use the whole can or even 2. again, wait a few weeks to sand it then buff.
paint can be bought here.
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 09:23 AM
jonny_flatbottle wrote:
it's fine to spray over the original paint.
scuffed, it acts as a primer giving your paint
something to adhere to.
the problem with nitro is first, a spray can costs
about $15.
it takes forever to dry and you will need to wet sand
it when it's ready!
then clear it and use the whole can or even 2. again,
wait a few weeks to sand it then buff.
paint can be bought here.
http://reranchstore.stores.yahoo.net/index.html
Hi Jonny
Im not concerned about drying time or Wet sanding...I was really
concerned about putting Nitro over the poly and seeing the stuff turn
into crinkle paint and looks like no skid !
I think ive already broken every rule for being authentic using a
classic body and A Allparts vintage neck with RI parts...It would be hell
to remove the poly and take it down to wood...
The Guitar Surf Gods will stike me down for adding 5/16th Allen screws
to the bottoms of the mexican thimbles so the Mustang Bridge will fit !
I did this on my Jazzmaster and nobody yet has noticed !
Pete Analog-Surf
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Matt22
Joined: Feb 15, 2007
Posts: 2813
Fredericksburg, Virginia
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 09:33 AM
I wouldn't worry about rules for authenticity. It's what YOU want and what works for you. Don't let that bother you in the least.
Yes, it's hell to get that finish off, which is why most people just paint over it. It will take longer to dry, though. No worries. If that's what you want to do, then by all means do it.
— Matt "tha Kat" Lentz
Skippy and the Skipjacks: 2018-
Skippyandtheskipjacks.net
https://www.facebook.com/skippyandtheskipjacks
Otto and the Ottomans: 2014-2015
The Coconauts surf band: 2009-2014
www.theamazingcoconauts.com
Group Captain and the Mandrakes 2013
http://www.gcmband.com/
The Surfside IV: 2002-2005, 2008-2009
the Del-Vamps: 1992-1999, 2006-2007
http://www.dblcrown.com/delvamps.html
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 09:51 AM
Matt22 wrote:
I wouldn't worry about rules for authenticity. It's
what YOU want and what works for you. Don't let that
bother you in the least.
Yes, it's hell to get that finish off, which is why
most people just paint over it. It will take longer to
dry, though. No worries. If that's what you want to
do, then by all means do it.
When I painted the telecaster It was because it had a huge Chip on the
side...When I started to sand I realised the coating was pretty thick
so I just smoothed it out..The Fender Poly coat is really layed on...
I know color has nothing to do with Playing but everybody who has
seen my pile of parts asks ( You are painting it right ? )...
I just cant come up with the money all at once to buy a Jag on Ebay
So Im doing the Radar O Riley method of 1 piece at a time...
Once its assembled I can just say to the wife it was always there
in the corner I just painted it !
Pete Analog-Surf
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Las_Barracudas
Joined: Apr 24, 2011
Posts: 1087
Surf City, NC
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 12:48 PM
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Stormtiger
Joined: Dec 12, 2006
Posts: 2675
Ventura, CA
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 01:10 PM
There would be no point in putting Nitrocellulose on top of poly. although I think Fender did that on some of the reissues.
I've stripped old paint off of furniture with an orange stripper (http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-59126/Detail) and it works great and is relatively safe to use, smells like oranges!
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Mojito
Joined: Aug 08, 2006
Posts: 39
Washington DC
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Posted on Nov 07 2011 03:31 PM
I did a Jag bass a while back and recommend stripping it. Don't sand the wood too fine for the primer coat you will need a little 'tooth' for it to adhere to. I also used a cabinet scraper to get some of the tough areas. Re-ranch has some dead-on colors. I was very happy with what I got from them. As always wear a respirator!
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Mojito
Joined: Aug 08, 2006
Posts: 39
Washington DC
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Posted on Nov 12 2011 04:03 AM
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 12 2011 07:03 AM
Mojito wrote:
Stew Mac tech tips link on stripping.
http://www.stewmac.com/tradesecrets/ts0151_polystripping.hzml?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=ts0151
Thats a great link on how to remove the poly coat !
Thanks..
Pete Analog-Surf
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 12 2011 07:04 AM
Stormtiger wrote:
There would be no point in putting Nitrocellulose on
top of poly. although I think Fender did that on some
of the reissues.
I've stripped old paint off of furniture with an orange
stripper
(http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-59126/Detail)
and it works great and is relatively safe to use,
smells like oranges!
$56...WOW !
I was thinking the same thing..What would be the point of putting
Nitro over poly...
Pete Analog-Surf
Last edited: Nov 12, 2011 07:05:52
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crumble
Joined: Sep 09, 2008
Posts: 3158
Guildford England
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Posted on Nov 12 2011 08:15 AM
I asked a paint sprayer friend about coating nitro over poly, he said it should be ok to do so. His advice: It might be good idea to test for reaction under the scratchplate first. You can use a specialised sealer coat or (old indian trick) "Dust" the first coats. This where you hold the spray gun a way above the object and with short bursts, allow the paint to float down in small mirco globules - wait for it to dry and repeat until covered.
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 22 2011 10:31 AM
crumble wrote:
I asked a paint sprayer friend about coating nitro over
poly, he said it should be ok to do so. His advice: It
might be good idea to test for reaction under the
scratchplate first. You can use a specialised sealer
coat or (old indian trick) "Dust" the first coats. This
where you hold the spray gun a way above the object and
with short bursts, allow the paint to float down in
small mirco globules - wait for it to dry and repeat
until covered.
I did the same thing ...I asked around...A couple of guys said the same thing..Test Test Test...Why are you putting Nitro over Poly ????
Seeing this is a Parts guitar and Is being built for playing
I was going to Use Rustolium Harbor Blue with Auto Clear coat...
One of my band members said at least at that point you can go back
and repaint it later ... If I go For commiting a guitar crime It wont be the first time Ive done this...So Far its a Classic Player Body with
an All parts neck and RI parts & Mustang Bridge.
Peter Analog-Surf
Last edited: Nov 22, 2011 10:42:34
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Stormtiger
Joined: Dec 12, 2006
Posts: 2675
Ventura, CA
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Posted on Nov 22 2011 02:05 PM
The Citristrip comes in smaller/cheaper quantities but it makes stripping so easy that it is worth whatever cost.
Of course nitro could be sprayed over poly but the poly will still be on there affecting your tone, feel, looks and the happiness and well being of the guitar...it will know.That said, all my guitars have Poly finishes.
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AnalogSurf
Joined: Aug 12, 2011
Posts: 133
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Posted on Nov 22 2011 03:15 PM
Stormtiger wrote:
The Citristrip comes in smaller/cheaper quantities but
it makes stripping so easy that it is worth whatever
cost.
Of course nitro could be sprayed over poly but the poly
will still be on there affecting your tone, feel, looks
and the happiness and well being of the guitar...it
will know.That said, all my guitars have Poly finishes.
Color is going to be one of those end of the road things...
I ordered the Neck early this week so once it comes in Im going
to assemble the neck and tuners ,body and Tremolo with bridge
see if it will tune up and set the intonation...I can do this
with the acoustic meter or just put in a pickup and electrically
set it up too.
My concern is that im mixing a Mexican classic player body with a vintage
neck and a mustang bridge...I purchased a Cheap RI pick guard and see
that the bridge thimbles are 1/8 of and inch forward than the classic
players thimble holes...
Im sure it will tune up but im going to have to possibly walk the Bridge
rollers screws more forward for the 12th fret intonation...
Pete Analog-Surf
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Bob_Kennedy
Joined: Feb 27, 2012
Posts: 316
Mesa, AZ.
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Posted on Mar 03 2018 11:37 AM
Lacquer finishing is my business. Literally. I own a furniture restoration business. I've finished & refinished plenty of guitars too. The whole wait 30 days thing is a myth. Wait 10 minutes between coats & after you spray your final coat, wait a few days, then proceed with wetsanding/polishing. You can certainly spray lacquer over poly with no issues. Just scuff the poly before you start spraying lacquer. Use good lacquer. I use & recommend Mohawk Finishing Products. Their Classic Instrument lacquer is the finest nitrocellulose lacquer I've ever sprayed on a guitar. Want more durability? Use their pre-catalyzed lacquer. It goes on & sands/polishes exactly the same as standard nitrocellulose. Pre-catalyzed lacquer IS nitrocellulose lacquer with an acid catalyst in it.
John Howard, your $500 budget will get you into a Fuji Semi-pro HVLP turbine system. Fuji makes fantastic HVLP systems. A turbine system generates its own air & is fool-proof. No oil/moisture filters to deal with, no pressure fluctuations & no air regulators. Just a constant supply of warm, dry air at about 4psi. Yes, only 4psi. True high volume, low pressure.
— Otto & The Ottomans
Kennedy Custom Guitars
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