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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink What's the Fender '63 Reissue Reverb Tank Tube Mod?

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Interesting little mods! Danny, did you try the Epoxy?

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

Hey guys, I'm updating my Fender unit that I bought new in '93. I wondered if there are any new mod updates not listed in this thread...the last reply was a while back.


Just going to chime in here with another question. I recently purchased a few NOS 6K6 tubes to replace the 6v6 that was in my hand wired unit. I was wondering about the other two tubes. What are peoples suggestions for those slots?

Kill, Baby...Kill! ... Apocalyptic Surf Punk from the bowels of Alabama!

I've done the C10 mods a few times and found I prefer the stock C10 value. Adding more bass with a higher C10 cap increased low end rumble to the reverb pan and took away some of the splashy/higher end vintage charm (at least for me) For the 12AT7 I'm using a Ei ECC81 and for the 12AX7 I'm using a JAN 5157.

The two things in my RI I'd like to address is (1) to reduce the decay on the pan and (2) reduce the signal attenuation a bit. I've tried a US accutronics pan (from 2000's), MOD pan and new Accutronics. They all have different tonal and decay characteristics. If I could reduce the decay (post note ummmmmm) a bit I'd be content (I think). Newer pans seem to have more decay then the older 60's verb units (maybe due to newer springs not being stretched out yet and cap values not being degraded over 30+ years)

hey Im planning on buying a NOS 6K6 tube. Are there any differences between NOS 6k6's or are they all similar. Thanks

Good discussion here. Hope it helps.

This is Noel. Reverb's at maximum an' I'm givin' 'er all she's got.

TheCruelSea wrote:

hey Im planning on buying a NOS 6K6 tube. Are there any differences between NOS 6k6's or are they all similar. Thanks

Every tube is different, even among the same brand.

derekirving wrote:

The two things in my RI I'd like to address is (1) to reduce the decay on the pan

Adjust the depth knob.

A meta-answer to these kind of Q's is Less is more. Obsessing on the million ways that I touch or don't touch the string yells me the most control over drip, sustain etc. I don't mean to be smarty about the topic but as every comment accrues we can see that even components with same vAlues often differ and every complex for jot has its own little voice- but our own musical voice is much stronger.

A friend who built his own recording studio, Marshall and Vox clones and could be described as a tweak mod freak eventuAlly came around to just playing as clean and simple as he could -essentially the solution of a jazz guitarist in his own postrock idiom.

So i work with the gear as-is and don't fix it. Until it's broke. Meanwhile my ear, brain & hands are quite busy choosing among the million things to do. Ultimately the gear needs to become transparent to intention. I think that's why jazz guys are usually conservative about gear.

derekirving wrote:

The two things in my RI I'd like to address is (1) to reduce the decay on the pan and (2) reduce the signal attenuation a bit.

For #1 you can try a different pan or turn down the dwell knob.

For #2...wouldn't we ALL! The only way around it (the design of the Fender Reverb has less than unity gain output) is to run your reverb unit in parallel or use a boost for makeup gain after the reverb unit in the chain.

A bump for the epoxy spring fix.

Mr_Reverb63 wrote:

ok im going to free ride on this thread. i found this in some book i had. anyone try this? is this recommended ? it mentions that shim mod another member posted not so long ago.


Here's what I know about spring reverbs ...

There is no knob that can change the decay time. That is mechanical and a function of the springs. You could buy a tank with a shorter decay time. Fender used "medium" decay times. You can also modify the springs a bit by putting a few pieces of thread between spring windings ( think dental floss) to mechanically shorten the time.

Changing the tube to a 6k6 increases the drive (dwell) to the reverb pan. So if you don't have the dwell turned up all the way there is no need to change the tube ... Just turn up the dwell. Same thing.

As far as loss of signal from unity the three tube designs are all subject to cancellation losses depending on what you plug into and the cable you use to do it. Keep the cable as short as possible and as low a capacitance as possible. The blend knob also figures in here. Fender fixed this deficiency with the four tube model. The fourth tube buffers the load ( your amp) from causing havok to the signal

I applied epoxy to my apparently ailing pan's spring connections, and shimmed the transducers, with epoxied wood splinters, last night around 7pm in the infernal heat of LA's Apocalyptic Autumn. I hope the epoxy there doesn't deaden the sound. It sure will cement the physical link and prevent any parasitic vibration. Will give it a full 24 hrs to set up, then I'll report back with results.

tonetti wrote:

Anyone ever try the epoxy and wood shims mentioned above?

Epoxy fix, & epoxied wood shims by the transducers, seems to have worked to reduce distortion to low levels. I have yet to play through my squeaky-clean Fender rig so I can't be sure, but bedroom test through Gibson tweed amp indicates good results.

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