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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink So I took the Buzz Stop off the Jaguar...

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This isn't really a question. Or a poll. Just an observation, I suppose.

I have broken two A strings (!) during performances in the last few months on my CIJ Jaguar. And at really inopportune moments. I suspected the Whizzo Buzz Stop as the culprit. Upon closer examination, I noticed that, in fact, the string was contacting the back of the bridge (perhaps during trem use) as the bridge rocked. The rather severe downward slope of the sting path as it traveled under the roller was to blame.

My choices were to file a slot on the back of the bridge or dispense with the Buzz Stop. So I took off the Buzz Stop.

It is going to take me awhile to get used to the difference in tone. I must say, I really liked the increase in sustain with the Buzz Stop on. And the sound had a definite bite. Now is sounds much more "springy" and open. One might say the Jaguar sounds more Strat than Tele now.

That's all. Maybe I need to start a blog. This topic is not exactly earth-shattering news, is it? Laughing

Oh quite the opposite I think!

The topic of the Buzz Stop is a hot one and it's good to hear from someone who has had one and removed it. It is interesting to hear that you had a problem with it and it's obvious you have well and truely located the failure.

I considered installing one but even with my basic understanding of guitars (I do ahve a damned good understanding of physics though), I realised that it would change the sound of the guitar... and I didn't just buy a Jaguar 'cos it looks pretty!

My "Jaguar problems" were solved by swapping the bridge for a Mustang one and thereby preserving the distinctive sound of the Jaguar. Yes, it's a CIJ but it sounds beautiful to me, especially clean through my '62 Princeton. I don't feel I was doing anything too "naughty" swapping the bridge for another Fender one ;)

My personal opinion is if you want sustain, buy a different guitar. For all it's inherent design "faults" (and I use that term very loosely), the Jaguar is a very special guitar... even a CIJ!

Thanks for sharing your experience with us... keep us updated if you experiment any further.

If the strings are hitting the back of the bridge, raise the bridge saddle until they clear th back of the bridge. If the action gets too high after doing that, lower the outside two bridge adjustment screws.

If that makes the bridge too low, such as making it touch the pickguard, or, if not using a BuzzStop, does not give you enough back pressure from the strings against the saddles, put a shim under the neck.

If, when raising the saddles the strings rattle against the ends of the intonation screws, use a Dremel to shorten the screws.

Rattles are just a loss of string energy, like having your strings hit the frets on a guitar with action that's too low. Use the mute for a real sustain killer!

If you try a Mustang bridge, which are from Japan, record the guitar with the original bridge first, change to the Mustang bridge and record the same riff for comparison. I seem to remember a difference that I did not like when I tried this a very long time ago. For an original style bridge, get a USA bridge for your Japan Jag/Jazz guitar.

I also remember uneven string height with the preset Mustang saddles. Stu Mac sell a modded Mustang bridge with adjustable saddles.

SlacktoneDave
If you try a Mustang bridge, which are from Japan, record the guitar with the original bridge first, change to the Mustang bridge and record the same riff for comparison. I seem to remember a difference that I did not like when I tried this a very long time ago.

I've experienced this as well. I replaced my AVRI JM bridge with a Mustang bridge because I was having a lot of stability issues with the bridge. Those issues are gone now, but the tone IS different than that recorded version I got with the stock bridge. Kind of a bummer really.

Ryan
The Secret Samurai Website
The Secret Samurai on Facebook

I tried the buzzstop once and quickly removed it as well. It changed the balance of the guitar, tweaked the tone and in my humble opinion was.....just plain ugly. It's been in a box in the basement for years. If any body wants it yell. You pay the shipping and it's yours......ed

Traditional........speak softly and play through a big blonde amp. Did I mention that I like big blonde amps? Not kidding about those amps.....Yum.

I'm sure you guys are sick of hearing me say this, but I like the GraphTech saddles a lot - I have used both the graphite black ones and the TUSQ white ones and they are both good, with a subtle difference in tone - I'd say the black ones give a thicker tone and the white ones are more scooped on the mids. they come with new springs and screws and the springs are a big improvement over Leo's ball point pen springs. (with all due respect to a brilliant designer, may he rest in peace). I do put a piece of thick rubber band between each saddle because the saddles are a little narrow. I also shim the neck so I get a good angle of string break over the bridge.

I have abandoned my buzzstop for now. The sustain it gave me has been made up for by the GraphTech saddles and I really like the way the vibrato tailpiece works without the buzzstop.

String breakage used to be a big problem, but with no buzzstop and GraphTech saddles, it's a non occurance

Yeah if you have an AVRI, and you want Mustang saddles, make sure you get a set of vintage Mustang saddles. The after-market Mustang saddles are made in Japan for the Japanese reissues and are too narrow. Putting rubber band slices in between helped but that just made me mad and it looked bad.

I asked the Graph Tech guys if they were ever going to make saddles wide enough for the AVRI (or vintage guitars) but they were not interested. Otherwise I would have tried those too.

I'm going to sticky this thread since it seems to have such a high concentration of advice that is already scattered about the other threads in the gear forum. Smile

Site dude - S3 Agent #202
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DISCLAIMER: My avatar is a reflection of the relationship between myself and computers, and should not be construed as any kind of comment on my fellow SG101'ers.

Ruhar
but the tone IS different than that recorded version I got with the stock bridge. Kind of a bummer really.

Next time I do a string change, I'll try both and record both but I swear I didn't notice any difference between them. Maybe its a CIJ thing?

There's DEFINITELY no gap between the saddles on my Mustang bridge! (bought on eBay from a US guitar shop, BTW)

Marc
There's DEFINITELY no gap between the saddles on my Mustang bridge! (bought on eBay from a US guitar shop, BTW)

Well if you have a CIJ/MIJ guitar then that is why.

Site dude - S3 Agent #202
Need help with the site? SG101 FAQ - Send me a private message - Email me

DISCLAIMER: My avatar is a reflection of the relationship between myself and computers, and should not be construed as any kind of comment on my fellow SG101'ers.

Slightly Off Topic but I put the original bridge back on my AVRI JM (had a mustang bridge on it previously) and WOW what a difference!! The thing just chimes so beautifully. It sounds great acoustically. I've gone full circle with this guitar now (stock bridge Arrow mustang bridge + buzzstop Arrow just mustange bridge Arrow stock JM bridge).

Based on some of the feedback from other offset players on this forum I decided to give the stock bridge another try and I'm so glad I did.

Ryan
The Secret Samurai Website
The Secret Samurai on Facebook

I had the stock bridge on the Jaguar (again, Japanese). The strings were flying outta those saddles! Going all into odd crevices.

Ruhar, I'm glad you like the stock bridge on the AV.

Ruhar
Slightly Off Topic but I put the original bridge back on my AVRI JM (had a mustang bridge on it previously) and WOW what a difference!! The thing just chimes so beautifully. It sounds great acoustically. I've gone full circle with this guitar now (stock bridge Arrow mustang bridge + buzzstop Arrow just mustange bridge Arrow stock JM bridge).

Based on some of the feedback from other offset players on this forum I decided to give the stock bridge another try and I'm so glad I did.

Thumbs Up

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

If you are having probs with strings jumping, I found this helpful. Find the groove in each saddle that you want the string to stay in, then cut it deeper ever so slightly using a fine needle file. My CIJ Jag is setup that way. My AVRI Jazzmaster is stock. Idea

The Jag/Jazz bridge is my favorite design, period. I have never had any problems. The one on my Bigsby'd Tele is backward so I can intonate the dang thing. Rolling Eyes Otherwise, the screws are about an inch from the Bigsby's roller.

RumorsofsurF: I liked the Jaguar bridge too. In theory. But the grub screws were constantly needing attention as well. A few in particular seemed to want to spontaneously lower themselves. Usually I would discover this when playing. Disconcerting. (No pun intended. Okay, maybe a little intended.)

Loc-tite helped but, then, really what is the point of having an adjustable part remain fixed? If I got a new brand of strings, then I would naturally want to set the intonation. Of course, first I would have to break the Loc-Tite, take the screws out, clean them, put them back in, reset the height, re-glue them...what a pain.

LHR
But the grub screws were constantly needing attention as well. A few in particular seemed to want to spontaneously lower themselves.

Just curious, was the bridge from an American Vintage, CIJ, CIM, etc..?

Ryan
The Secret Samurai Website
The Secret Samurai on Facebook

CIJ, A0.... series, 1996/97/98?

LHR, instead of glue you can use vaseline! It works great for me...
I put a little between the saddles too to prevent rattle.

Every word is like an unecessary stain on silence and nothingness.

Use nail polish.

Man at store: "Some rubber band and some vaseline please."

"It's for my Jaguar."

Matter is just energy waiting to happen.

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