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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink Squire VM Jaguar / Mustang Replacement Bridge?

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That heat-shrink bothers and irritates me. Evil
My understanding is that this bridge type is designed to be freely rocking, and centered with string pressure alone.
I don't get it wfoguy - why? Doesn't it feel 'spongy' to you?

I also had the bridge on my MIJ Jag 'locked'. My tech put 2 plastic bushings with threads in the holes and the bridge stopped rocking back and forth.
You see, I'm a 'violent' player, meaning I aggressively dig into those strings and hit my guitars hard. With the bridge 'floating' it would jump towards the bridge PU while playing - and it went out of tune and Intonation. That's the reason I've decided to have the bridge 'locked'.

The Hicadoolas

Last edited: Jan 19, 2016 05:09:12

Same here SanchoPansen. I would love to be able to utilize this bridge the way intended. But that simply isn't possible for me in a live setting. So I wrapped the posts on mine so that the bridge stayed centered.

SanchoPansen wrote:

I also had the bridge on my MIJ Jag 'locked'. My tech put 2 plastic bushings with threads in the holes and the bridge stopped rocking back and forth.
You see, I'm a 'violent' player, meaning I aggressively dig into those strings and hit my guitars hard. With the bridge 'floating' it would jump towards the bridge PU while playing - and it went out of tune and Intonation. That's the reason I've decided to have the bridge 'locked'.

THE KBK ... This is the last known signal. We offer Sanctuary.

www.thekbk.com
http://www.deepeddy.net/artists/thekbk/
www.reverbnation.com/thekbk
www.facebook.com/thekbkal

So, tuning stability under heavy live attack... I understand. Thumbs Up
I tried once to wrap my Jazzmaster's original bridge posts, because I'm a shrink-wrap maniac... It did of course remain centered, but also lost a lot of that pleasant oscillating effect.
I wonder if modifying the screw end's angle could solve the tuning problems white still maintaining offsets' vibrato magic. Oh, isn't that what Mastery did?

Your solution is unlikely to help Sancho and I. When we say we play violently, we are saying that our palm placement and the pressure behind it ends up forcing the bridge all the way over to the pickup side. The only way to solve it is to either completely reeducate our brains on how to play or to lock that thing in place. And, honestly, when I actually do play my jaguar, I have no issues with the sound I get out of the vibrato.

DreadInBabylon wrote:

So, tuning stability under heavy live attack... I understand. Thumbs Up
I tried once to wrap my Jazzmaster's original bridge posts, because I'm a shrink-wrap maniac... It did of course remain centered, but also lost a lot of that pleasant oscillating effect.
I wonder if modifying the screw end's angle could solve the tuning problems white still maintaining offsets' vibrato magic. Oh, isn't that what Mastery did?

THE KBK ... This is the last known signal. We offer Sanctuary.

www.thekbk.com
http://www.deepeddy.net/artists/thekbk/
www.reverbnation.com/thekbk
www.facebook.com/thekbkal

I woke up this morning and decided to give your idea a try. I placed the saddles from a Mustang bridge into the stock vm jaguar bridge. Unfortunately, this does not correct the radius problem. The radius ends up exactly the same as the stock vm mustang bridge. Butbitbis all good. The radius difference is minute. The Mustange bridge works great. Even more, I put 12 Flatwounds on and everything is sturdy as can be.

wfoguy wrote:

Killbaby, you are correct. I did a comprehensive measurement comparison and found no reason not to do this. My complaints with the jag were the threaded thimbles and the rocking bridge. The 2 layers of heat shrink have reduced the movement to a fraction of the originals. The mustang saddles have taken care of moving the strings around with picking. The "can't see the forest for the trees" analogy comes to mind. Smile

THE KBK ... This is the last known signal. We offer Sanctuary.

www.thekbk.com
http://www.deepeddy.net/artists/thekbk/
www.reverbnation.com/thekbk
www.facebook.com/thekbkal

I haven't had time to look at my jag for months. Today I noticed that the string spacing is off with the mustang saddles. This makes the high e almost even with the edge of the neck. I haven't decided what I'm going to do but the first thought I had was to remove the saddles and narrow them to a smaller dimension that would return the string spacing to the same as my other Fenders. The only thing that is different is the mustang saddles so unless the bridge is machine incorrectly, that has to be the answer. I measured the spacing on the mustang and jag when I decided to use the jag and the holes for the saddle screws were in the same spacing. It will be some time before I remove the parts and change anything.

I finally had some time to address my bridge dilemma. First off, I have some measurements to share. First, the base of the Jag neck and all my other Fenders measures 2.190". The Mustang bridge measured the same 2.190 from string groove saddle to saddle. The roller bridge I put on measures 2.045 saddle to saddle. I don't think the bridge posts were perfect in placement on the Squire but the Mustang bridge exaggerated that fact. The action is too high on the roller bridge so I will have some machine work to do still. I have the same height string placement on my Jazzmaster and it works but with the shorter scale, I'm not happy yet. The pics are of the original D.D. pickups, the AVRI 65 pickups I installed and the comparison of the string placement on the neck with the 2 bridges. As I said, I'm not done with this but I believe this is better than the Mustang bridge I had on. That bridge was genuine Fender also.
image
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image

Last edited: Dec 18, 2016 16:14:35

Today I had time to remove the roller bridge and cut the bottom of it .060" .This has the action back to where I started out with the original Jag bridge. I didn't have time to intonate it yet, tomorrow should be cold enough that being inside will sound real good so I'll finish the setup. The pic shows the bridge in the mill after machining.
image

I have a roller like that on my nebs sg. Look at the low E on the roller. I had to gingerly file the roller of I think the E and the A so they would sit properly and not jump right off.

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