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SurfGuitar101 Forums » Gear »

Permalink 6g15 reissue rebuild questions!

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Sure, that much is clear. I've got a clearly labeled green ground wire with a dedicated nut on the chassis.

jbennett wrote:

Okay. So you are describing the Weber 5g15 power cord
wiring. Will the original fender wiring not work? Or is
one better than the other.

In the old fender plan the switch bridges the
connection of the neutral wire with one of the primary
wires (black). So that primary to the PT must be
attached to the other primary (white) inside the PT.
And hence...POWER.
I guess I could just check for a zero reading on my
meter from both primaries to answer that mystery.

Thanks again. As for the ground, I'll be reusing the
existing ground mount nut. It is it's own secure bold
on the chassis in green, clearly labeled.

I'm not intentionally describing the Weber layout. I'm describing best practice for any modern mains wiring!

The original 2-wire mains is potentially hazardous because in some places you never know which way around the 'house' wiring was done, and its 50/50 as to whether the chassis ends up being live. The 3-wire mains wiring is much safer because the chassis is grounded (assuming the mains earth is properly earthed!).

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Got it. Thanks.

Note, I'm thinking about the old fender wiring updated with a ground wire. So there is no danger of the chassis winding up live.

Last edited: Mar 02, 2012 13:05:31

jbennett wrote:

Watch that those cap leads don't short onto the chassis.

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Last edited: Mar 03, 2012 22:30:07

Will do. That's just setting on top, not connected yet at all. I only haven't yet because I need to re-solder a couple eyelets so the whole thing sets down flatter on the chassis.

Last edited: Mar 04, 2012 06:28:43

You're in the doghouse now...

Hey, in case you haven't heard, thanks for the detailed photos!! Really appreciated.

Thank you for watching! Hope to have it all done by this time next week.

Another question has popped up. The Output jack, and the footswitch jack, as well as both reverb in/out jacks look to be insulated from the chassis. Is this something I should stick with? From photos I've seen the originals don't look to be insulated. Hard to tell.

And the originals have a brass plate under the pots/jacks on top. I don't have that on mine. Do I need one, or can I solder my ground bus wires to the chassis directly? What is the purpose of the brass in this case?

Here is one from an old unit:
image

Last edited: Mar 04, 2012 11:41:42

jbennett wrote:

Another question has popped up. The Output jack, and
the footswitch jack, as well as both reverb in/out
jacks look to be insulated from the chassis. Is this
something I should stick with? From photos I've seen
the originals don't look to be insulated. Hard to
tell.

Depends how you want to do the grounding. If you're doing the "R.G. Keen-style" of grounding, then yes its best to insulate the jacks and wire the ground returns (jack sleeves) as per R.G.'s diagram.

And the originals have a brass plate under the
pots/jacks on top. I don't have that on mine. Do I need
one, or can I solder my ground bus wires to the chassis
directly? What is the purpose of the brass in this
case?

The brass plate on the vintage unit is a grounding plate. Brass provides a better ground return than the steel chassis does, because brass is more conductive/less resistive, so there is (micro-)rise at different points in the ground return potential. If you're not going to insulate all the jack sleeves, then use a brass plate.

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Thanks again for the response. I am not sure what I'll do just yet. Might see how it works with just the jacks un-sheilded or grounded inside to the chassis.

Package is still on its way. Cleaned up power supply wiring a bit and soldered in the two 100 ohm resistors on my octal socket. And soldered up the OT leads to the RCA out. And crimped a nut mount collar on my rectifier ground.

Outlet works, and the PT fires up a-okay. Jewel lamp glows, just above 130vdc before the diodes on the rectifier and just over 250vdc after they pass through the rectifier. 8ish vac on the greens. 130vac on the primaries. Something like that. Once it's all wired up I'll photograph all the readings.

Jacks have resistors and are installed.

Last edited: Mar 06, 2012 07:42:28

If you're going to do heater wiring in the bottom corner of the chassis, now would be the time to wire them in (while you still have space for your hands to work). JM2CW

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

I imagined that heater wiring would be easier to do last... just because they kind of fall above or in front of the rest of the tube connections. Maybe I'll re-think that.

Depends whether you want to wire the heaters in tucked in the chassis corner or'suspended' above the sockets. The former method is best installed beforehand, the latter - afterwards.

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

I see. I have seen many people tuck the heaters in along the front lip corner of the chassis. That's what I was picturing.

In that case its better to wire the heaters in anytime now

He who dies with the most tubes... wins

Surf Daddies

Wired up the heaters. They are pretty out of the way of everything this way. And, they work! I even dropped in some tubes and they warmed up to a nice, healthy orange glow.

image

image

New AC wiring... and 1/2 watters that I found at Leeds Audio... crusty bastards.

Last edited: Mar 07, 2012 20:20:36

Got my last package. Tonight I will try to finish things up.

BUT, those new Mallory caps are way too ugly, even for a component that will almost never see the light of day. But, hey... we make fancy caskets for folks and those never come out of the ground, so...

Before, and After: (while we're looking... do I have the polarity right? These are not only ugly, but have no clear markings for pos/neg)

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